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J200vxsss rough midrange rpms

JackandJack

New member
We bought a 2000 21’ SeaSwirl wa with a 2000 Johnson 200 Ocean Pro J200vxsss. Everything is in great condition, the previous owner said he had the engine serviced a few months prior which included new plugs, wires, and impeller. The engine starts and will continue to run all day with no problem, but as we accelerate it becomes very rough with noticeable vibration until you reach higher speeds where it completely smooths out. The tach does not read at all, but the warning lights run through the checks when starting; i also know the check oil light works bc it lit up on the test run and the do batteries charge. ( had to use a jump box to start, then after a short time of the engine running was able to start it up again with the battery). I noticed a small amount of corrosion leaking from the rectifier gasket so I’m guessing that needs replacing. I suspected the carbs need tuning, the rectifier is bad or the power pack. When I get some time off I will try and test the electrical aspects. I’m new to outboards, but do have light mechanical experience. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks,
Jason
 
Began electrical tests this afternoon, started with spark plug tester with immediate issues. At first only cylinder number two would show a spark so I believed the tester was faulty and retested the old fashion way holding plug to ground. As my brother in law would turn the key it was like each cylinder would “wake up” until only the number five cylinder remained inactive. I then tried to swap trigger wires between numbers five and four on the ignition coil packs (orange wires) which resulted in spark from number five... so I’m guessing the ignition pack is good and the problem is in the power pack on the top of the engine. Also, there is definitely an issue with the rectifier apparently leaking water. I plan on using high temp atv to make a gasket.
 
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Thank you,
The reason i figured high temp rtv was bc i am having trouble finding the replacement gasket. I see them sold with the rectifier, but not individually.
Also, the compression test was 90 to 91 on all cylinders. Would changing the head gaskets improve compression? Thanks,
Jason
 
Doubt that changing the head gaskets will improve compression.-----These motors may have a relief hole in the cylinder wall.----They will show low compression at cranking speed.----Run with a timing light to see if there may be an ignition miss as you speed up.---Regulator gasket is 344472 available all day long !
 
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This is a a side note but, the paint is faded at the water line on the engine. I see the touch up paint and the primer available. Would you suggest both or can i get by with just the paint?
Thanks
 
Just a little update...
Monday we received the new power pack and rectifier gasket after waiting patiently for the package to track across the country.
Thought it would be an easy project to accomplish and literally told my wife and brother in law that it was “fool-proof”!
Ha
This is where the trouble began.
Last bolt in rectifier snaps off, apparently the salt water got to it from the leak in the gasket.
Then I drop a dime size piece of gasket into the water cavity.
Stress.
Bro in law suggests using a vacuum to retrieve the shard of gasket material.
Success after retrofitting a length of garden hose to a shop vac.
So we block the cavity with trash bags to prevent future contamination.
The broken bolt.
Unbelievebly seized!
We saturate it with WD40 and try to twist the nub with the only vice grips we have, a shabby pair; hardly suitable.
Even with Bro in law’s brute strength it is no use, so with the dark coming down we give up.
The next day after work and a short trip to Home Depot to better equip us, we give it another go.
This time a fine pair of meaty vice grips and corrosion eating WD40, as well as a torch.
First we saturate the bolt with the new WD40.
I use a large maul to hold steady pressure on the top of the new vice grips as Bro in law puts applies gorilla grip to clamp down locking tight; solid.
Next we heat the aluminum slightly, being careful not to melt anything else in the process.
Then we take the heat away and spray the new WD40 and let it soak in.
Then we gently try to move the bolt in both directions.
We repeat.
The third time we add a small prayer before applying heat.
Amazingly the bolt finally moves and we are able to extract it.
Overjoyed, we move on to prepping for the new gasket with no issues then install the rectifier.
Alls well until I try to be fancy and use a torque wrench that just so happens to be broken, which I am completely unaware.
Yes, I slightly stripped the exact bolt location that was lodged in there in the first place.
Yes I will address it when it leaks again, and probably have to repeat all this once more.
No, I will not fix it now because I would like to hear what kind of purr a brand new power pack produces.
Sigh.
We finally finish installing the new power pack as night begins to fall and cold descends on the South.
Bro in law turns on the water, I turn on the batteries.
Me: “Here we go!”
Bro in law : “VRRRROOM!”
Motor: “...”
Nothing.
Absolutely nothing.
No start up check lights on the tach, nothing.
We check fuses, and replace the blown starter fuse.
Still nothing.
At the key switch the purple wire reads only 5v, red is 12v.
I’ll have to try again tomorrow.
 
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I don't have suggestions on the no power condition.

On the bolt I do have a few for future reference:
1) WD-40 IS NOT a penetrating oil. PB Blaster, Aero-Kroil, Mouse Milk, Liquid Wrench.....these are oils designed to penetrate corrosion and help stuck parts to move. Alternating oil and torch heat can really work things loose.

2) Stuck bolts like yours sometimes do well by first putting tightening pressure on them, then trying to loosen. That extra bit of torque can break things loose.

3) Impact drivers do wonders for steel fasteners (carbon or stainless) that are stuck in aluminum threads. The action of the impact from the hammer and the quick, slight turn of the device can really break threads that are stuck.

4) Once you do get it to loosen a good trick is to turn until it gets stiff, then tighten back to snug, loosen until it's stiff, back to snug.....This back and forth of loose-tight will get the threads worked and can help prevent further broken bolts.

5) When you have a badly corroded thread like this, it's always a good idea to get a tap and chase the threads. This helps clear the crud left behind and gives you clean threads for the new bolt.
 
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