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How to rebuild carb

And what is your motor doing / not doing that leads you to believe it is a carburetor problem ?-----Any other trouble shooting done ?
 
racerone said:
And what is your motor doing / not doing that leads you to believe it is a carburetor problem ?-----Any other trouble shooting done ?
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A few weeks ago it started stalling in gear at idle intermittently. Then today it ran all day, at the end of the day I idled in gear and it stalled. Wouldn't restart. Leaking fuel. Then saw fuel leak out of the upper right corner of the starboard side of carb when I pumped primer bulb. Let sit for couple hours, then it started, barley. But wouldn't idle and didn't seem to be running well, continued leaking fuel.
 
I would say that you need to look at the float / float valve.---------Simple repair and I would not call it a " rebuild " if that leak is the problem.
 
racerone said:
I would say that you need to look at the float / float valve.---------Simple repair and I would not call it a " rebuild " if that leak is the problem.
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Ok, thanks. I just figured if I open up the carb might as well clean and rebuild with kit with float that is available. Carb hasn't been rebuilt in 4+ years.
Can you recommend a good source ( manual ) for this job?
 
Nothing to it really just take the top off and the float bowl and remove the float and seat. Soak the carb body and float bowl in carb cleaner overnight. The next day blast all the circuits good with high pressure water hose pressure is good enough then blast it dry with air. Lightly surface the mounting flange with 220 grit on a glass table just pull the carb in one direction only until it all shines the same. Install the needle seat and check float level by turning it upside down. The float needs to be level with the float bowl surface and not cocked. If you need to adjust the float do not press on the float with your finger pull the float bend it and then check it again. Do not over tighten the carb good and snug is the technical term just pull it down slow and even to good and snug. Check engine sync between carb opening and timing advance. There is a mark on the throttle cam when that mark passes center of the roller the carb should just begin to open.
 
DO NOT SOAK THE FLOAT BOWL IN CLEANER!!!! This has the plastic/phenolic bowl and caustic cleaners will damage it!!!
 
I did not know that then pull the jet and soak it with the carb. I use a gas welding tip cleaner it has ribs but does not work as a file. Allways replace the fuel lines as well and at least clean the fuel pump. If the diaphram in the pump is stiff replace it.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
I did not know that then pull the jet and soak it with the carb. I use a gas welding tip cleaner it has ribs but does not work as a file. Allways replace the fuel lines as well and at least clean the fuel pump. If the diaphram in the pump is stiff replace it.
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Thanks! There is a small black rounded, hollow ( in the shape of a square) cylindrical thing attached to the carb body, it looks to be plastic. Is that ok to soak overnight as well?
 
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The instructions on can will give you some info on that issue,pretty sure rubber is not a friend of that solvent,some plastics are not solvent friendly!
 
Update! Got her back in service. Replaced the float and needle, couple a gaskets and did a quick clean and blow dry! Thanks for the help everyone!
 
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