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Honda bf8a 2005

primetime907

New member
Often times, in F, throttle will not turn as if it is in N. Guessing I need to adjust something in linkage, cable? Or is it an electronic protection? I was able to overpower the resistance on the way back up river but I don't want to break it. I have only experience cleaning the fuel system, otherwise new to outboards.
 
Well, I have never worked on an 8hp "A" model, only the D. The A is what I call the "old style" being similar in design as the models from well before 2000.
Honda introduced the D models in 2002.

It's been awhile since I worked on them but I don't remember the D model having a neutral gear throttle lockout. I don't think that the A should have one either but don't know.

The A model neutral switch consists of an electric reed type switch that is magnetically controlled to prevent engine start in neutral by disabling the ignition. The shift mechanism has nothing to do with the throttle as far as I know.

However, you make a good observation about having to force the throttle sometimes because your A model carburetor is part cable and part wire rod linkage actuated.

I don't think any of that has anything to do with the hard pull start complaint but, as you can see in the link below, the throttle cable is no longer available. See item 1.


The cable works a bell crank type throttle arm (item 3) that translates throttle movement from cable to solid carb linkage. That arm is supported by bushings and other hardware that can wear and/or come loose.

I'm bringing all this up because, due to the unavailability of parts, damage to that cable, in particular, because of poor adjustment or lack of lube, would make it difficult to continue using the outboard.
I suggest you look into what is causing that binding and correct it if you can.

An additional thought about the high resistance to pulling the rope is the pull start mechanism itself.

I don't think that type (without neutral interlock) is necessarily problematic but it is just another thing to consider if you can't find an obvious cause.

Good luck.
 
Pull start is easy. There is electrical wiring in my tiller arm. Is that ign/ kill switch only? I'm also going to play with the shifter a bit more and get back to you.
 
Yes, the wiring is for ignition and kill switch. Again, as far as I know having not worked on these particular models.

Apologies, I got your post mixed up with an earlier post from today about hard pull over.
 
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