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Honda BF115 2003 - No Spark

K

kevin954

New member
Hello,

I am new to this forum, and I have seen all the great information being shared. I was hoping maybe someone could give me some good insight. Thanks in advance for your help!

I recently purchased a BF115 from a neighbor(cheap). He told me the engine was submerged for a very short period of time, then flushed, cleaned, and re-lubed. After that it ran for about 15 minutes then sputtered out.

It looks to me to be in good cosmetic condition. Has very minimal corosion and strong compression.

What I have done so far:

Mounted the engine on a sturdy jig and connected the controls (side control type). I have connected the battery and have power. The fuel line is not yet hooked up.

I have a new set of spark plugs.

When I turn the key to the on position, the green indicator light on the control comes on. When I turn the key to the start position, the engine turns, but no spark. In addition, I do not hear a fuel pump running and there is no audible beep at any point from the controls.

I have checked the main 90 amp fuse as well as the 2 30amp fuses and 1 10amp fuse located to the left of the starter. They are all good.

With a volt meter, I have measured the voltage at the 2 leads going into each coil. They are all ground. Even when I unplug the ECU, they still read ground.

Im not sure what I should check next. I hope this is a relay or circuit issue and not a costly ECU.

I would appreciate any guidance.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Update -
This evening I examined and reseated most of the connectors. They all looked good.

I read all of the posts about relay problems, I tried tapping on the relay with a small wrench and I got a little more life out of the engine. :)

The fuel pump came on for a short time and I had two short beeps from the control unit. Also, the green oil pressure light and the red over heat indicator came on for about 2 seconds then both turn off.

Still no spark when the engine turns.

Any ideas?
 
Simple things first. Did you connect the safety landyard to the button on the control box?

If you had to tap on the main relay module to get things to operate, although it is a sealed unit, you may need a new one.

Not sure how you are checking spark. Easiest way to see if anything is going on spark wise is to connect a timing light to one of the plug wires. If it flashes, you probably have spark. Sometimes it is hard to see if you are checking with just a spark plug.

If your starter was not taken apart and cleaned, it probably has limiting life left. I would not worry about it until you get the other things (like running) out of the way.

Mike
 
Agree with Mike - My first thought was that the safety lanyard was not hooked up or the kill switch itself was corroded. I think that if you disconnect the wires to it, that has the effect of bypassing the kill switch.
 
Chawk and Mike, Thanks for the replys. I was hoping you would see my thread. The safety lanyard is connected.

I also opened the contol to put a meter on the safety switch to insure proper operation. It is working properly.

Prior to me tapping on the relay - when I turned the key to the on position the green light would come on and stay on. Even when turning the engine it would stay on.

Now, after tapping on the relay - each time i turn the key to the on position the green light and the red light both come on simultaneously with two short beeps from the alarm, I hear the fuel pump come on at that time also, then they all turn off.

If I turn the key to the start posiition the engine turns (The starter is turning strong), then when I release the key from the start position the fuel pump kicks on again for a second then shuts off.

As far as the spark plugs go, they are all removed. When I was testing them for spark, I would plug one in to one of the spark plug cables and hold it to an exposed bolt on the block while turning the engine with the key. I have done this individually with each cable 1-4 and am getting nothing.

I do not know if it matters, but I will try to share as much as I can. The trim/tilt is working fine from both the control and the side of the engine. I have not connected a fuel line as of yet because I was trying to get a spark before hooking that up.
 
I defer to Mike on this one. I don't know anything about the BF115. I would reinforce Mike's suggestion to beg, borrow, or steal a timing light and check the plugs that way.
 
You have to have both #1 and #4 plugs grounded, since they are part of the same circuit.

Same thing for #2 and #3. They form their own circuit. 1 and 4 fire at the same time. Likewise, 2 and 3 fire at the same time.

You should have 12v on the yellow/black lead...going to the spark coils. This voltage comes from the main power relay circuit, when the key switch is turned on. A pulsing ground is sent to the coils from the ECM to cause the spark.

Check out the last few pages of your owners manual for circuit diagram. If you do not have one, you can download from Honda http://marine.honda.com/Owners/Manuals/models/BF130
 
Mike,

Good News. Its running!!

When the relay kicked on (by tapping) the ground at the coils went to 12 volts. This happened yesterday.

Just for the hell of it, I took a jumper cable and went from the positive terminal of the battery to the starter where the main cable connects. Then tried the key again. I got spark!

So I filled the seperatror with fuel and with no hesitation it started right up.

The main power cable was bad. It was so coroded under the rubber for about 1/4 of the legnth of the cable. I cut out the bad and put new connectors on both the pos and neg at both ends.

...and it only cost $6.

Now I need to get that relay replaced. I read that there is a service bullitin on it anyway.

Thanks for taking the time on this.
 
Glad things got sparking.

There is a Service Bulletin, but since the engine is out of warranty, it is not covered under warranty.

Just buy a new one, clean out your tank and fuel system and go boating.

Mike
 
The base idle is adjustable on the throttle body. You have to put it in test mode and disconnect the IAC. Even if you make this adjustment, when you connect the IAC and put it back to normal operating mode, the ECM will take over and put the idle where it wants it.

I have found that setting the base idle is good to do, so the IAC does not have to jump through hoops to make the engine idle smoothly. For the real techees out there, this may not be technically accurate, but I look at is as setting the base idle to agree with the IAC so they will not fight each other.

So, unless there is something wrong with the idle (out of spec or running rough), "it is what it is".

Mike
 
Thanks for the input. How do I put it in test mode? I know it has something to do with jumpering the red connector, but what is the proper sequence? Should I jump it when its off then key it on? Do I start the engine or just turn it to the on posiition?

I also do not know where the IAC is or what it looks like. Sorry if I dont know much, but its my first outboard, and I have only had it for a week.

Also can you give the the location of the throttle adjustment?

.......on alnother note. I hooked up some ear muffs and let the engine run for a short period. I am not getting any water from the indicator. Water is coming out 2 small holes on the lower unit near the oil screw and the flush screw. There is also some water coming out of the exhaust. Any ideas?

Thanks Again
 
The idle setting should have been done when the motor was originally set up. You should not have to mess with it unless the throttle body has been changed.

If you are getting into stuff like this, you should buy a Honda manual...it will step you through it if you need it. http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?session=501D8988303B4908B2C39BF51A89CF6A&Style=helm&Mfg=AHP&Make=MAR&Model=BF11&Year=&Category=&Keyword=&Module=&selected%5Fmedia=

The throttle is adjusted where the throttle cable attaches to the lever on the engine.

The water telltail is very small and it probably has some dirt or nest in it. Generally, if you just take a small wire and stick it up through the hole and ream it out some, it should start peeing. The indicator is located on the starboard side near the front of the engine.

Mike
 
Last edited:
Thanks Mike.

I had to take out the T that the line to the water indicater connects to and clean it out. It was really gunked up. I also cleaned out the indicator itself. That too was really clogged.

Now that I know water is flowing, I have run the motor for longer periods, the idle is getting better with no stalls. I will not try to mess with it yet.

Thanks for your help.
 
Given all the junk in the water passages you looked at, I would strongly suggest a thorough cleaning of all the water passages using CLR or Salt Away.
 
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