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Honda 2hp 2006 model

venxxxxx

New member
HI guys,
I picked up a used 2hp honda outboard on CL for my dingy. But upon arrival the motor been starting for like 2 seconds then shut off. I thought its because it wasn't in water but its aircooled so no need for water to run.

SO I tinkerling around and took the whole thing apart. Now it doesn't turn on. I think I messed up the timing/cog wheel to control the intake/exhaust valves.

Anyone have the expertise to advise me on this issue ??

Thanks.
 
Thanks Mike, I thought that was what I needed too... the repair manual. So I bought one. I did open up the whole thing, split the case, took out the gears and the whole ten yards.

I figured it was time to clean the piston head and all. It sure was dirty with carbon built up. It initially had oil in the combustion chamber due to shipping, it was shipped upside down. Thats why I wanted to take it apart and learn for myself for any future repairs.

Thanks again for your reply. ONce I get the repair book, it will be screaming once again.
 
Not sure if this is in time to help or if you already know but you shouldn't try to clean that carbon off of the piston or combustion chamber too aggressively. Scraping or wire brushing will leave scratches in the metal that will cause hot spots that will,in turn, cause pre-ignition and detonation.
 
I got the book and got it to crank again. There's an arrow on the plastic gear and a tiny dot on the crankshaft gear must line up.

ANywho, it only crank up for a second and shut down. I realized its the stop/red button that isn't functioning. With or w/o the safety connector, it still crank for just 1 second.

ANyway I can buy a new one ? or I have to open it up and rewire the switch ?
 
If it starts and runs at all, I wouldn't think it is the stop button. I mean, it COULD be but probably not. That switch just grounds the ignition so that it won't fire. Since you have the book, you can look at the wiring diagram and simply unplug the switch connector under the hood temporarily to see if the engine will stay running or not to eliminate the switch as a problem. If the engine runs and you need to pull the choke to get it to stop then you know it is a bad switch. If not, You still have your original problem and Mike was probably right about the carburetor needing to be cleaned.
 
Okay thanks for the replies. I checked the switch, it seems fine. It probably the carb. I'll work on it sometime this week and post about it...
 
The books aren't much help when it comes to cleaning the carbs on these engines. You really, really , really need to study the carburetor assemblies very carefully after you take it apart and familiarize yourself with each and every internal passage. I'm not sure about yours specifically but most have three tiny holes in the top of the throttle bore, on the intake manifold end, that are drilled in a sort of "triangle" pattern.

One is the idle circuit passageway and can be seen with the throttle plate seated or closed. Make sure that you remove the idle mixture screw and flush and backflush that passage thoroughly with the screw out. The straw that comes with a can of carb spray works great for covering those tiny holes and backflushing with the pressurized fluid.

The other two holes can be seen when the throttle plate is opened and propped open. Those are the "transition" and the high speed circuits. Find where they are being fed from the float bowl and jet assembly and flush through that passage. You will probably see fluid escaping through the housing for the idle mixture screw while doing this so hold your finger over that opening while flushing.

All three of these orifices must "gush", not dribble, fluid when completely cleaned. Pay particular attention to any passages in the bottom of the float bowl. Study where any internal drilling goes from the bowl up to the main body and make sure those are all clear by flushing with spray. I frequently use more than one can to clean up a carb.

Study the jet tube and make sure that it is showing daylight up through the center and that it is not cracked. If it is cracked, you can't get it clean or, you're just not sure, replace it.

Don't reuse the old seals, especially the tiny Orings for the idle screw and the jet set. It is CRITICAL that you achieve a good seal at these points and great care should be used when reinstalling so as not to "roll" or pinch the seal rings.

Good luck.
 
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