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Honda 20 HP Outboard Motor

T

tinkerings

Member
This little outboard starts with one pull, purrs like a kitten, runs like a dream. We have it on a 14 ft Mercury inflatable. I love it on the ocean. I am going to try it on my 12ft aluminum (not on the ocean). I hope it's not too heavy with two guys in the boat?
I am going to do some preventive maintenance soon. I just wanted to check into the forum.
 
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Hi.

Which one? There are several depending on overall height and how they come equipped. The frame or vin number sticker helps with those specifics. That should be located on the stern bracket (transom clamp) facing up.

But, since you say it's mounted on an inflatable, I will assume that it's a manual start, tiller controlled, short shaft model. Sound close?
If so, you can expect it to weigh in the 115 pound range.
Longer shaft models weigh slightly more.

I don't think it would "swamp" that tender but I have no experience with that.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.
 
jgmo said:
Hi.

Which one? There are several depending on overall height and how they come equipped. The frame or vin number sticker helps with those specifics. That should be located on the stern bracket (transom clamp) facing up.

But, since you say it's mounted on an inflatable, I will assume that it's a manual start, tiller controlled, short shaft model. Sound close?
If so, you can expect it to weigh in the 115 pound range.
Longer shaft models weigh slightly more.

I don't think it would "swamp" that tender but I have no experience with that.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Click to expand...
Apparently it's a BF20. Does that help?
I'll do some more research using the info you gave me, and thanks for the welcome.
I am going to search the forum to see if I can find a manual for repairs and maintenance. Do you know where to look?
 
Whoops, sorry I didn't get the part about the swap to a 12' aluminum. But I still think it would work.

That's a lot of outboard for that hull so you will want to be cautious about turns on plane because you'll probably be going pretty fast.

And, you'll probably be making a really big wake so, at first, get all the weight forward that you can because you could get water over the transom if you suddenly chop the throttle from full speed.

If it's an older 20 ('03 and older), my manual doesn't have all the info for those models and I'm not familiar with them.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Whoops, sorry I didn't get the part about the swap to a 12' aluminum. But I still think it would work.

That's a lot of outboard for that hull so you will want to be cautious about turns on plane because you'll probably be going pretty fast.

And, you'll probably be making a really big wake so, at first, get all the weight forward that you can because you could get water over the transom if you suddenly chop the throttle from full speed.

If it's an older 20 ('03 and older), my manual doesn't have all the info for those models and I'm not familiar with them.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up on handling precautions!
We will be cautious with weight distribution, and keeping the throttle and speed down.
 
Toyota Roki 15400-PFB-014

Same for 2004 on.

....See item 6 in link.


Or, you can simply get the number from the filter that's on there now. Just pop off the hood and take a look.

NAPA has a good cross reference system and sells quality oil filters. Don't cheap out on those and beware of ebay AND Amazon sellers because much of the stuff on those sites may look authentic but isn't always what it seems. It's a MASSIVE problem in the automotive aftermarket parts sales today. A crappy, low quality KNOCK OFF oil filter CAN and WILL ruin an engine!

www.boats.net can be your friend when you need parts or reference drawings.

Good luck.
 
What’s the 12’ boat rated for? I have a 9.9 Honda on a 12’ StarCraft that’s rated for a 10hp and with just me in I need a sandbag in the front or a 70lb dog to keep the front down. With 2 adults it moves along ok, with 3 adults I need a bigger engine. My engine weighs 100lb so an additional 15lbs shouldn’t make too much difference in handling characteristics.
The reason I’m asking what your boat is rated for is should you get into trouble of some sort and an investigation revealed that you have more hp than the boat is rated for where does that leave you with the courts or insurance?
 
jgmo said:
Toyota Roki 15400-PFB-014

Same for 2004 on.

....See item 6 in link.


Or, you can simply get the number from the filter that's on there now. Just pop off the hood and take a look.

NAPA has a good cross reference system and sells quality oil filters. Don't cheap out on those and beware of ebay AND Amazon sellers because much of the stuff on those sites may look authentic but isn't always what it seems. It's a MASSIVE problem in the automotive aftermarket parts sales today. A crappy, low quality KNOCK OFF oil filter CAN and WILL ruin an engine!

www.boats.net can be your friend when you need parts or reference drawings.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
There are sure alot of alternatives.

Oil filter cross reference

251 replacement oil filters for HONDA 15400-PFB-014. See cross reference chart for HONDA 15400-PFB-014 and more than 200.000 other oil filters.
www.oilfilter-crossreference.com
 
jgmo said:
Toyota Roki 15400-PFB-014

Same for 2004 on.

....See item 6 in link.


Or, you can simply get the number from the filter that's on there now. Just pop off the hood and take a look.

NAPA has a good cross reference system and sells quality oil filters. Don't cheap out on those and beware of ebay AND Amazon sellers because much of the stuff on those sites may look authentic but isn't always what it seems. It's a MASSIVE problem in the automotive aftermarket parts sales today. A crappy, low quality KNOCK OFF oil filter CAN and WILL ruin an engine!

www.boats.net can be your friend when you need parts or reference drawings.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
I might be hooped time wise for getting a top brand filter. I might have to gamble and stick the one on there that will get me on the water in time for departure. I'll try not to.
Thanks
 
jgmo said:
Dang AI changed Toyo to Toyota and I didn't catch it.
So helpful!.....NOT!
Click to expand...
I finally figured out how to shut off auto fill on my phone. Sometimes I want to use slang. I don't want a machine telling me how to speak.
AI is often wrong in search results too. It's the last thing I look at, if at all. I have designed a new formula that could challenge Einstein... AI=BS
 
William01 said:
What’s the 12’ boat rated for? I have a 9.9 Honda on a 12’ StarCraft that’s rated for a 10hp and with just me in I need a sandbag in the front or a 70lb dog to keep the front down. With 2 adults it moves along ok, with 3 adults I need a bigger engine. My engine weighs 100lb so an additional 15lbs shouldn’t make too much difference in handling characteristics.
The reason I’m asking what your boat is rated for is should you get into trouble of some sort and an investigation revealed that you have more hp than the boat is rated for where does that leave you with the courts or insurance?
Click to expand...
Thanks.
It's an older boat; I don't think the label lists a max HP. It has weight maximum etc..
We are going to slowly feed it into the water to see how it stands. There will be two of us so we can shift the weight distribution as required, if it's going to be feasible at all.
This being a relatively similar weight as your 9.9 hp makes it appear to be possible, on paper.
 
tinkerings said:
I hear you. I have a Harley too. Unless you gamble safety by cheaping out, things are pricey.
Click to expand...
I found a Fram PH6607 for $8 CAD on amazon, delivered tomorrow. The above cross reference lists it as a viable alternative. I know Fram gets pooped on in todays world but it will suffice for me. I'll buy a couple of them.
 
Yes any style of the appropriate size filter wrench will work or even a large pair of slip joint pliers or pipe wrench would probably work in a pinch.

And this is where you find out about the "fake" Phillips head screws if it's a 2006 or older.

They aren't Phillips head at all but actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) head screws. You can buy the correct screwdriver on Amazon. It helps to keep from boogering up the screw heads if you use the correct tool.
That is, unless you own a 2007 or later model. I think Honda started using hex head screws on those under skirts because of all the complaints.

I had customers that retrofitted the hex head screws on their outboards because, even with the correct screwdriver, those little screws tend to sieze and are a pain to break loose. I always used an impact driver to get them broken loose initially You'll know about that being a motorcycle guy.:)
I recommend the switch over even though I haven't done it myself.
Lazy bum. Cheap bum too. See item 10 for price per screw in link below:

They can probably be had much cheaper per screw from an online hardware vendor like McMaster Carr or Fastenal but I have never checked. Probably have to buy 25 count or more though.




Also....
....Before you start....
....
....Pay close attention to how the tell-tale hose is routed from the engine fitting, UP through a hole in the splash plate and then out to the nozzle in the cover. It's IMPORTANT to route that little hose correctly so you don't pinch it or kink it closed when putting the cover back on.

That is, of course, if someone Before you hasn't already put it back incorrectly and you just wind up copying their mistake.

I always say routing and reconnecting that hose when putting the cover back should be an experience that's sort of like "Twister Yoga" when doing it singlehandedly.

In other words, if it's easy to do, you're doing it wrong. :/

It's best with a helper.

You'll see.

That little hose should be replaced every few seasons too because it gets hard over time and will tend to catch small items like pebbles and tiny debris when it does.

The hose should be soft and supple....limp actually....or it will tend to clog, stop up your tell-tale stream and ultimately drive you nutz.

I know, lots of words about a little hose but, well....
....you'll see...

Item 35 in the link below if you're interested.

..
 
jgmo said:
Yes any style of the appropriate size filter wrench will work or even a large pair of slip joint pliers or pipe wrench would probably work in a pinch.

And this is where you find out about the "fake" Phillips head screws if it's a 2006 or older.

They aren't Phillips head at all but actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) head screws. You can buy the correct screwdriver on Amazon. It helps to keep from boogering up the screw heads if you use the correct tool.
That is, unless you own a 2007 or later model. I think Honda started using hex head screws on those under skirts because of all the complaints.

I had customers that retrofitted the hex head screws on their outboards because, even with the correct screwdriver, those little screws tend to sieze and are a pain to break loose. I always used an impact driver to get them broken loose initially You'll know about that being a motorcycle guy.:)
I recommend the switch over even though I haven't done it myself.
Lazy bum. Cheap bum too. See item 10 for price per screw in link below:

They can probably be had much cheaper per screw from an online hardware vendor like McMaster Carr or Fastenal but I have never checked. Probably have to buy 25 count or more though.




Also....
....Before you start....
....
....Pay close attention to how the tell-tale hose is routed from the engine fitting, UP through a hole in the splash plate and then out to the nozzle in the cover. It's IMPORTANT to route that little hose correctly so you don't pinch it or kink it closed when putting the cover back on.

That is, of course, if someone Before you hasn't already put it back incorrectly and you just wind up copying their mistake.

I always say routing and reconnecting that hose when putting the cover back should be an experience that's sort of like "Twister Yoga" when doing it singlehandedly.

In other words, if it's easy to do, you're doing it wrong. :/

It's best with a helper.

You'll see.

That little hose should be replaced every few seasons too because it gets hard over time and will tend to catch small items like pebbles and tiny debris when it does.

The hose should be soft and supple....limp actually....or it will tend to clog, stop up your tell-tale stream and ultimately drive you nutz.

I know, lots of words about a little hose but, well....
....you'll see...

Item 35 in the link below if you're interested.

..
Click to expand...
It must be a 2007 or newer; I don't see any problem with the phillips screws. My Phillips driver took them out without slippage.

I'll see if I can find that troublesome hose. Thanks
 
What kind of lube goes in the lower drive unit? I'm not sure what I might have around here. Can you use universal stuff or is it proprietary?
 
tinkerings said:
What kind of lube goes in the lower drive unit? I'm not sure what I might have around here. Can you use universal stuff or is it proprietary?
Click to expand...
I found a bottle of Honda lower unit lube in my stuff but it doesn't have a fitting on the bottle. What kind of bottle or nozzle works for squirting it into the lower screw hole?
 
Setback number 9, I can't find the fuel tank and line. I suspect it got lost along the long move somewhere; choppers, boats warehouses...
Are most Honda fuel lines 3/8". I have a Yamaha tank and line that I might be able to put to duty; I might be able to change the fitting on the motor end. It's all 5/16" stuff.
I'll see if I can heat and cram a 3/8" fitting into the 5/16" line, or use a 3/8" to 5/16" reducer barb, and a short piece of 3/8" hose.
I am feeling the pinch to get this up and running by Monday (3 days).
 
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If you buy a mercury bottle pump, they are cheap and come with an extra fitting that fits the screw hole for pumping gear oil in the lower unit. I think Honda and Yamaha are the same.

Buy a Honda fuel fitting for the connector to the engine at the same time for your Yamaha tank, a little silicone spray and it should slide on whatever size hose fitting you get- unless your Yamaha hose is old and really hard.
 
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NSDON said:
If you buy a mercury bottle pump, they are cheap and come with an extra fitting that fits the screw hole for pumping gear oil in the lower unit. I think Honda and Yamaha are the same.

Buy a Honda fuel fitting for the connector to the engine at the same time for your Yamaha tank, a little silicone spray and it should slide on whatever size hose fitting you get- unless your Yamaha hose is old and really hard.
Click to expand...
I will look on amazon for a threaded bottle pump. Thanks!
The yammy fuel line is getting kinda stiff but it might still be flexible enough. I can soak it in seal swell too if needed.
Excellent.Thanks
 
What's the bottom line on motor oil. They say the shops use 5W-30 synthetic now instead of 10W-30 standard.
If that's the case, why not 10W-30 synthetic?
 
I prefer synthetic in everything, it maintains its viscosity at cold and hot limits. Which oil to use is a debate with lots of people on both sides- probably ok to use either. I usually stick with the manufacturer recommendations.

Biggest problem with oil not doing its job is not changing it regularly.
 
NSDON said:
I prefer synthetic in everything, it maintains its viscosity at cold and hot limits. Which oil to use is a debate with lots of people on both sides- probably ok to use either. I usually stick with the manufacturer recommendations.

Biggest problem with oil not doing its job is not changing it regularly.
Click to expand...
Yawh, changing the oil is more important than what kind. Like, whats the best toothbrush? Answer: The one you use.

I have been using synthetic mostly these days. The local parts store has a good price so... Synthetic has better properties...
I will use 10W-30 synthetic instead of 5W-30 synthetic (like I heard even some dealerships are using). If 10W-30 is the viscosity engineered into that motor, so be it. I won't be running it in the winter anyway. The lakes are frozen here in the winter.
Thanks
 
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