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High idle

Jerryjerry05

Jerryjerry05

Outstanding Contributor
1996 200 Evinrude.Carb model.
Serial #E200TXEDR
The comp is good, good spark.
The rpm's at idle are 2-3k if not more.
The linkage is set so the throttle pickup point is open. It won't
go anywhere to let the idle down.
How/what do I do to bring the idle down?

Seems as though there's a new trigger, stator, CDI box.
THANKS!!
 
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You must know it's gotta be a vacuum leak......IF the throttle butterfly's are all closed and flywheel key good......and trigger at full clockwise position. What did the customer say about how and when the problem started? Hit a rock? What's the prop and skeg look like?
 
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The guy just bought it.

Turns out it is a Frankenstein motor,
a piece from this one and a part from that one.

Good prop, skeg whole.

Thanks you and Racerone have given me a few ideas.
 
The Frankenstein: turns out the fuel pump has a hole in the diaphragm and
the trigger was installed and basically locked in place.
A magnet came off when we removed the flywheel(had to re-glue).
Will start it today.
Hopefully it will make a difference????
Thanks
 
Two part epoxy for the magnet, clamped in place.
Worked good.

Started it after freeing the trigger and magnet repair.
The rpm's went down but not nearly enough.
Seems like the quick start isn't kicking out?

This is the first repair that I couldn't fix. :(
Usually with help from here and that other repair forum,
I can usually fix about anything.

Thanks for any help. Jerry
 
The big motors are not my specialty. Sure we can get more suggestions from other pros. I'm sure you checked timing, eh?
 
On hose.
No tach hooked up.

Another customer has the same motor and it runs good on the hose
and drops down like it's supposed to??

Talked to owner last night, he says he got the motor to slow down by
adjusting the air/fuel mix screws.
Says he turned them out to 9 turns out, then he said at that setting it
got hot.
I thought hey were supposed to get set about 6 turns.
He set them back at 6 and the rpm's returned?
 
Make sure it out of Quickstart ,the timer base moves freely and the crossbar you loosen screw to sync carbs with is not slipped and holding one bank of carbs cracked open on throttle plates.
 
Timer base free, owner replaced timer and locked it in place.
I removed the flywheel and free'd the base, moves easily now,
still over rev.(aftermarket part)
Thermo's new

Carbs set right, one of the first things I checked.

The owner bought aftermarket parts for the timer, thermo's, choke
and what ever he replaced before I started working on it.

The choke lever(red) leaked when activated, Sierra part, replaced with OEM

Gonna keep trying, THANKS for the help.
 
faztbullet said:
Make sure it out of Quickstart
Click to expand...
My thought too. I'd verify the temp sending units are operating properly and that they are connected. Also, just to satisfy curiosity I'd stick the LU in a tub and let it run with backpressure and cooling from the water pump.

One of the biggest frustrations is trying to first repair things that other people 'fixed' just so you can get down to the real problems.

KJ
 
As KJ said. Check temp sending sensors. Disconnect the white/ black striped wires, if I'm not mistaken. That is the quick start wire. Had a Ocean Pro 6 months ago , that would fall off and not idle after quick start retarded timing, ended up being trigger base.
 
And as said , magnets , check and see if there is marks that have been made white marker underside of flywheel. Meaning someone has reepoxy magnets. Have seen a few over the years that obviously had reman flywheels, and you can identify them by marks made and New balance holes drilled with no black paint , in holes drilled. Just throwing that out there.
 
So can the guy who owns the motor contact the previous owner and ask him when the problem started and what was done at that time? A little detective work has saved me a ton of frustration over the years. Often times I make the calls myself and eliminate the customer because he wants to rip the guys head off already.
 
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