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Help no WOT, no fun. 1999 Mercrusier 5.0

I am not sure it cares if there is a knock sensor.

If I remember correctly, the knock signal is a voltage spike (like 2-5 volts when it detects a knock) which makes it go into retard mode...

Therefor absent of the signal it will not go there meaning No knock module no problems making it work.

I think the knock module was a stupid idea that added a missunderstood component to a ignition that was already fool proof.

He has the TB V with knock. If he gets a TB IV or TB V without, just remove the knock modudle and sensor/wire.
 
kghost said:
I am not sure it cares if there is a knock sensor.

If I remember correctly, the knock signal is a voltage spike (like 2-5 volts when it detects a knock) which makes it go into retard mode...

Therefor absent of the signal it will not go there meaning No knock module no problems making it work.

I think the knock module was a stupid idea that added a missunderstood component to a ignition that was already fool proof.

He has the TB V with knock. If he gets a TB IV or TB V without, just remove the knock modudle and sensor/wire.
Click to expand...
When I did my repower in 2016 I spent a lot of time mentally masturbating over this... I used a carbed 4.3 accessories to make a 5.0 partial engine pack into a complete bobtail. Was concerned I needed a knock sensor ...

Unfortunately the geniuses at merc made it care if there is a knock sensor... The knock module sends 8-10v signal to the ignition module when no knock is present... so if you run it without knock module it will constantly be in retard mode and removing up to 10 deg of advance. See attached snip from manual 24

Completely agree the knock module was a dumb idea and just added chit to a good robust system. I cant imagine adding even 5 degrees more makes a diff in the amount of power the typical carbed 5.0 or 5.7 makes....

the OP currently does not have a knock module in photo posted as it would be piggybacked on the ignition module.

ICM manual 24.png
 
Ok, As i said its been a while since i read thru the knock sensor info.
so maybe it drops to 2 volts when a knock is detected
That being said,

If the timing module is bad get an earlier one without knock and get rid of fhat altogether.

I keep several timing modules in my parts area, old square box v8 and small package V8 and V6 and a BB one...
All pre knock

Good for troubleshooting...
 
I have decided to go down the "Delco EST Kit" road. Ordered a Kit and will be making the necessary modifications. Not fond of ordering a new or used 20ish-year-old part for $400+ , when I can replace it with newer tech that supposedly works better. Besides, the Delco EST Kit is supposed to increase performance, I believe...
Not going with the "All in one" Chinese thing I posted above. I wanted to not have "mechanical" advance, which it was using.
Thanks for the advice, I will update you with either success or failure:cool:

I just saw all the updates, I guess I needed to refresh the page.

Dieter "When I did my repower in 2016 I spent a lot of time mentally masturbating over this" LOL me too... and I "Came" with the above choice... :ROFLMAO:
 
Yznhmr said:
I have decided to go down the "Delco EST Kit" road. Ordered a Kit and will be making the necessary modifications. Not fond of ordering a new or used 20ish-year-old part for $400+ , when I can replace it with newer tech that supposedly works better. Besides, the Delco EST Kit is supposed to increase performance, I believe...
Not going with the "All in one" Chinese thing I posted above. I wanted to not have "mechanical" advance, which it was using.
Thanks for the advice, I will update you with either success or failure:cool:

I just saw all the updates, I guess I needed to refresh the page.

Dieter "When I did my repower in 2016 I spent a lot of time mentally masturbating over this" LOL me too... and I "Came" with the above choice... :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
kghost If I had the spare module laying around, I would have tried that for sure, but don't :cautious:.. so.. here we are...
Parts here on Sat..
On the water by SUN lol...
 
Yznhmr said:
I have decided to go down the "Delco EST Kit" road. Ordered a Kit and will be making the necessary modifications. Not fond of ordering a new or used 20ish-year-old part for $400+ , when I can replace it with newer tech that supposedly works better. Besides, the Delco EST Kit is supposed to increase performance, I believe...
Not going with the "All in one" Chinese thing I posted above. I wanted to not have "mechanical" advance, which it was using.
Thanks for the advice, I will update you with either success or failure:cool:

I just saw all the updates, I guess I needed to refresh the page.

Dieter "When I did my repower in 2016 I spent a lot of time mentally masturbating over this" LOL me too... and I "Came" with the above choice... :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
The Delco isn't newer or better tech than the TB ignition and while it will improve performance of your malfunctioning ignition whoever told you it will make more power is FOS.

They are both OEM quality systems that are out enough in use that any marine mechanic can work on them vs something they have never seen before.

The downsides of each are delco you have to splice into your harness, TB the lack of affordable module spares....
 
Dieter said:
The Delco isn't newer or better tech than the TB ignition and while it will improve performance of your malfunctioning ignition whoever told you it will make more power is FOS.

They are both OEM quality systems that are out enough in use that any marine mechanic can work on them vs something they have never seen before.

The downsides of each are delco you have to splice into your harness, TB the lack of affordable module spares....
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info.. I do hate to splice into the harness, but I was hoping I could find a "plug for each side so I could avoid cutting, ill prob just use "taps" off of the harness, instead of cutting., unless that's frowned upon?
61lXnIcVpAL._SL1000_.jpg
 
Do not solder. It's against ABYC guidelines. Do not use blue taps. Run a new wire if necessary from a screw terminal where you can put a crimped heat shrink eye terminal on the wire.
 
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