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flywheel

J

johno77

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My mate is a smart man and was helping me with the engine this afternoon with the timing.But we have alittle problem we cant see the marks on the flywheel we can see the marks but no numbers so gave it a light rub with sand paper now we can see much at all.Does anyone no from what way the marks and numbers go?It is a 175hp flywheel 1989.Pictures would be great.
 
If you can find out what the max spark advance is, you can 'degree' that flywheel like racers do and make your own marks.

With that info in hand, you need to make a piston stop out of an old spark plug. Beat the insulator out and thread it for a bolt.

Next, with all the plugs out (it's easier that way) install the piston stop plug in # 1 cylinder and rotate the flywheel until it binds on the bolt--adjust the bolt in or out as needed. Now, find a convenient spot on the block--I use the casting parting line--and make a mark on the flywheel. Then rotate it the other way and make another mark. (These two marks should be about an inch apart. If more or less than that, remove the marks and adjust the bolt until they are.)

The TDC of your motor at # 1 position is now BETWEEN those two marks. Remove the piston stop and back the flywheel up (CCW) the amount of max spark advance--you can do this with a protractor, or with some math (counting flywheel teeth). Lastly, mark the flywheel at the pointer.

Jeff
 
Here is correct way to do it.......If you have the timing slide pointer on the flywheel cover, loosen the two screws so it will slide left and right.
If you do not have a pointer, make one from a piece of wire and attach it to any bolt or bracket available. The pointer must point to the edge of the flywheel so it can be aligned with marks on the flywheel, and be stiff and secured well enough so it won’t move while the motor is cranked.
Remove all sparkplugs so you can turn the flywheel by hand. I ground all plugs also just to make sure the switch boxes do not get damaged.
Insert the dial indicator and threaded adaptor into cylinder #1 sparkplug hole.
Turn the flywheel clockwise until the dial indicator indicates top dead center. Turn the flywheel slightly back and forth to verify TDC. There will be a "dead spot" where some flywheel movement will not result in movement of the dial indicator. I use the center of this area as TDC.
If you have TDC ( 0 degrees) indicated on the flywheel, adjust the pointer to align with this mark. If TDC is not marked on the flywheel, make a mark on the flywheel and align the pointer with the mark. White paint works well, so does white correction fluid or a fine paint pen. Just make sure the mark is as thin as possible, and will be visible in the flash from a timing light. This is the place to be creative. I’ve used white paint that makes too wide a mark and gone back with a black fine point sharpie marker and narrowed the line. Whatever works for you. Some people use a punch and hammer, but personally, I would be concerned about even a light impact load to the crank and upper bearing.
Tighten the timing pointer slide screws, if applicable. Continue turning the flywheel clockwise until the pointer points to 8 degrees AFTC. Mark the flywheel at this location also. Remember, if your flywheel is not marked you will need to calculate the distance on the circumference that equals 8 degrees and use that distance from TDC to mark the flywheel.
Turn the flywheel counter clockwise PAST .150" before top dead center – maybe .200"to .250" or so. Carefully turn the flywheel clockwise again and stop at .150"BTDC. This removes any slop and insures the piston is approaching TDC from the same direction as in normal operation. .150" BTDC is equal to 25 degrees BTDC.
If there are degree markings on your flywheel the indicator should be pointing at 25 degrees. If you have a 25 degree mark and the pointer is close, but not aligned, adjust the pointer so it does align. If there no markings, put another mark on the flywheel aligned with the pointer. This will be the maximum spark advance timing mark. It’s best to make this mark unique from the marks at TDC and 8 degree ATDC.
Make sure the battery is fully charged.
Remove the dial indicator and adaptor, and install the spark plug in cylinder #1. Leave the other plugs out so the motor will spin at a higher cranking rpm.
Hook up timing light to cylinder #1
Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle control lever.
If you’re using a remote starter, one connecter goes to the small solenoid post with the yellow wire with red tracer. The second connecter goes to the large terminal with the heavy red cable from the battery. If you are not using a remote starter, you’ll need a second person to turn the key while you open the throttle and hold the timing light.

SETTING MAXIMUM TIMING

Loosen the lock nut on the maximum spark advance screw.
Turn the motor over while holding the throttle control lever at wide-open position so the maximum spark advance screw is against its stop. With the timing light, the pointer should align with the 25 degree (.150") BTDC mark on the flywheel. If it does not, screw the maximum spark advance screw in or out until the pointer is aligned with the mark while cranking.
Tighten the lock nut on the maximum spark advance screw.
 
Thanks for the replies.We have tdc.We are up to maximum timing.There are timing marks but no numbers on flywheel.Anyone got a picture of a 175hp flywheel.So i can work out the numbers?
 
.010 is one degree with indicator so .110 would be 21 degrees, you dont need a compass
and remember it a 60degree not 90degree block
 
"Here is correct way to do it.......If you have the timing slide pointer on the flywheel cover, loosen the two screws so it will slide left and right.
If you do not have a pointer, make one from a piece of wire and attach it to any bolt or bracket available. The pointer must point to the edge of the flywheel so it can be aligned with marks on the flywheel, and be stiff and secured well enough so it won’t move while the motor is cranked.
Remove all sparkplugs so you can turn the flywheel by hand. I ground all plugs also just to make sure the switch boxes do not get damaged.
Insert the dial indicator and threaded adaptor into cylinder #1 sparkplug hole.
Turn the flywheel clockwise until the dial indicator indicates top dead center. Turn the flywheel slightly back and forth to verify TDC. There will be a "dead spot" where some flywheel movement will not result in movement of the dial indicator. I use the center of this area as TDC.
If you have TDC ( 0 degrees) indicated on the flywheel, adjust the pointer to align with this mark. If TDC is not marked on the flywheel, make a mark on the flywheel and align the pointer with the mark. White paint works well, so does white correction fluid or a fine paint pen. Just make sure the mark is as thin as possible, and will be visible in the flash from a timing light. This is the place to be creative. I’ve used white paint that makes too wide a mark and gone back with a black fine point sharpie marker and narrowed the line. Whatever works for you. Some people use a punch and hammer, but personally, I would be concerned about even a light impact load to the crank and upper bearing.
Tighten the timing pointer slide screws, if applicable. Continue turning the flywheel clockwise until the pointer points to 8 degrees AFTC. Mark the flywheel at this location also. Remember, if your flywheel is not marked you will need to calculate the distance on the circumference that equals 8 degrees and use that distance from TDC to mark the flywheel.
Turn the flywheel counter clockwise PAST .150" before top dead center – maybe .200"to .250" or so. Carefully turn the flywheel clockwise again and stop at .150"BTDC. This removes any slop and insures the piston is approaching TDC from the same direction as in normal operation. .150" BTDC is equal to 25 degrees BTDC.
If there are degree markings on your flywheel the indicator should be pointing at 25 degrees. If you have a 25 degree mark and the pointer is close, but not aligned, adjust the pointer so it does align. If there no markings, put another mark on the flywheel aligned with the pointer. This will be the maximum spark advance timing mark. It’s best to make this mark unique from the marks at TDC and 8 degree ATDC.
Make sure the battery is fully charged.
Remove the dial indicator and adaptor, and install the spark plug in cylinder #1. Leave the other plugs out so the motor will spin at a higher cranking rpm.
Hook up timing light to cylinder #1
Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle control lever.
If you’re using a remote starter, one connecter goes to the small solenoid post with the yellow wire with red tracer. The second connecter goes to the large terminal with the heavy red cable from the battery. If you are not using a remote starter, you’ll need a second person to turn the key while you open the throttle and hold the timing light.

SETTING MAXIMUM TIMING

Loosen the lock nut on the maximum spark advance screw.
Turn the motor over while holding the throttle control lever at wide-open position so the maximum spark advance screw is against its stop. With the timing light, the pointer should align with the 25 degree (.150") BTDC mark on the flywheel. If it does not, screw the maximum spark advance screw in or out until the pointer is aligned with the mark while cranking.
Tighten the lock nut on the maximum spark advance screw. "


I believe I said the same thing, but with 10 % of the verbiage!

Jeff
 
I believe I said the same thing, but with 10 % of the verbiage!
Click to expand...

Not even close as the pointer is not true in your way. The pointer is not set at TDC it is set at .462. The reason for setting to .462 is to CONFIRM exactly where the crank is in relation to degrees. There is to much"play" at TDC to get an exact reading. SO when you stop at "0" and rotate backwards it'll start the movement at the exact point of rotation on the crank. From "0" on indicator you rotate wheel ccw to .462 on the gauge and move the pointer to align with .462 on flywheel
 
So all good apart from idle i have tried moving idle screw yet haven't got enough play.I am thinking it has something to do with the throttle rod that hooks up from lever to carby.I cant remember what its called i haven't got the book with me.The rod has two threads on either end.
Everything else is set as the book says.Does the idle have any variances if the timing is a couple of degrees out?
At the moment engine revving to high at idle about 1200-1400rpm book says to have it from if i remember rightly 550-700rpm.I shall check tomorrow.

Can someone send a picture of the rubber roller on the carby linkage at the bottom where the rod and the little lever hook up.I would like to know in relation of the rubber roller and lever with adjustable rod.
So hopefully everyone inst to confused with my description its been a long night.And i left the book where im working on the boat so i cant use the correct terminology sorry.
 
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