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Exhaust Anode. Why does Honda do this?

fishnmaine

Contributing Member
Hey guys
I’m replacing my anodes on my 115 Honda. I am talking about the exhaust ports two bolt cover came off fine, but why in the hell that Honda put a Philip screwdriver head holding the anode instead of a regular hex bolt. First of all theres hardly any corrosion if any I’m talking maybe 2% and I’m putting my screwdriver to it and it will not budge. I was thinking of using a manual impact wrench, but I don’t know if that’s a good idea where it’s an aluminum block I could still get a bite on the screw, but I’m starting to ruin it. Will heat work? Figured I asked before I proceed any further.
 
I would use a quality manual impact driver like the Genius brand. Other brands I found don't work so well, & just cause damage to the screw head.
If that fails, then warm it up(not too hot) & retry with impact driver.
 
A small size impact would likely be the best bit. But when I'm confronted with these situations, I'll soak the bolt in PB Blaster, then insert the Philips screwdriver in the slot, and tap, tap, tap. Repeat several times. With patience, that works the majority of the time. When that doesn't work, I will drill it out with w reversed thread bit.
 
Well,
Your idea about replacement with hex head or socket head screws is probably a good move....
...but...

...My experience is that the screws sieze and will snap off. That's why I urge anyone changing anodes to always buy new screws and hit the old ones with PB Blaster or Aero Kroil (better) as far in advance as possible before attempting to unscrew them.

When they snap off flush, it's very difficult to drill them out and tap the hole.

I've used an anti-sieze with nickle in the compound but I really don't know how smart or effective doing that really is.
 
It’s often that using the impact driver to first TIGHTEN the offending bolt. Not a bunch, just a hair. Then reverse & loosen. Then tighten, then loosen.
Sometimes that will break the bond.
Use heat in conjunction with this.
 
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