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Erratic timing poor idle

So I got the remote starter switch in the mail yesterday and was finally able to get back out there today. After switching coils and power packs around i'm some how getting better spark on the starboard side cylinders. I guess it time to figure out how to use this dva adapter. Does anyone know what the best thing to use for the jumper wires while testing the ignition?
 
it got better on the same side but as the motor warmed up it started to become an erratic idle again. Also i explained that all wrong i apologize. The side that would not jump the 7/16" gap the other day was the port side. Then today when i switched the coils from the starboard side to port the spark got better but still seemed weaker than the starboard side with the port side coils on. Then when i tried starting the motor, after idling low for about 20 sec it leveled out for a while then seemed to become erratic again after it ran for a little while longer. I hope all that is clear.
 
If it pretty much stayed the same it sounds like the PPs are likely good. Swap the trigger wires and see what it does on the side thats not firing good.
 
If the PP with the short trigger wire is working just move the long trigger wire over and see if it still works if not the stator is likely the culpret if it does not work the trigger is bad. Just the opposite if the short trigger wire PP is not working and you swap the long wire over to it and it works then the trigger is bad if it still dont work the stator is bad.
 
A trigger will not cause weak spark!!! It can be fooled into firing early before capacitor is fully charged by magnet problems. Your motor has enclosed magnets and very rare for this. Most likely the stator.....
 
I cant seem to upload a photo but there is a procedure for testing the sensor coil output. It says place the black test lead into "B" and the red in "c" and the reading should be 3 volts and i'm not getting three. This is literally the only thing i can find wrong
 
The cost of parts makes it real important to confirm the diagnostic especially after parts are replaced. Do you have a volt meter on the dash you can monitor the charging system real time. That can save you alot of money shutting it down before it frys the system.
 
A couple paperclips attached to your test leads work good for backprobing connectors. If one side is low voltage swap the PPs again and see if it stays the same the stator is bad if it follows the PP the pack is bad.
 
Just keep at it I am sure you will get it sorted out eventually. I am a HVAC service tech and intermittent faults can be a bitch. It will eventually slap you in the face. Have you checked all the wires for direct or indirect shorts? Inspect all the wires for hard brittle insulation or bare wires. bend the wires looking for weak spots.
 
Another possibility is the connectors themselves. Take a small jewelers screwdriver and push in all the pins from the backside of the connector. use dielectric grease on the connectors after you spray them good with electrical cleaner and let them dry.
 
I reread your post and you say you swapped coils but I don't see where you actually swapped the packs. Swap the packs or the charge coil leads to packs if long enough and retest.
 
That is a actual test its called the wiggle test just start wiggleing stuff looking for a response. Same thing at night when dark you can see arcing you cant see during the day. Just be careful of the flywheel it dont say ouch.
 
I've literally been through this whole motor The only thing i can make an educated guess on and the only thing i cannot verify is the flywheel or possible a bearing maybe :(
 
Did you have a charging issue? I didnt go back and read everything again. Pull the flywheel and inspect the stator looking for burn spots or tar leaking out. It could be a issue that occurs when the engine/stator gets warm and then shorts internally?
 
replaced the timing base, stator tested and looked fine. the only other thing that looks a little funny was the seal under the timing base was a little raised on one side.
 
it is still missing a little i think and timing is def still erratic unplugged everything even the rectifier. tried another key switch on another cable i had. the only other thing that i have not tried is new plug wires but i just bought them less than a year ago.
 
1) The flywheel has cast in magnets for charging and press/glue on timing hub magnet no bolts
2) Easy to test for flywheel problems ,just index it and check with timing light
3) You still have not posted if you moved packs to opposite sides just coils
4) Keyswitch wont cause it
5) It is a stator or pack..easy to test by swapping to opposite sides(packs) or swap the stator charge wiring to packs
 
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