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Difficulty starting wont idle once warmed up (1985 E25ELCOC)

I pulled the flywheel. Here are some pics:
The flywheel key seems fine. At first i thought it was worn, but after looking at the tapered slot in the flywheel i see that it appears to be correct.
As i mentioned previously i changed out the charge coil assembly. I believe everything went back together correctly, but does anyone notice anything a miss?
 
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Close up pic of flywheel key in position.
 
When you put fuel directly into the cylinder , it should ROAR LIKE AN ANGRY LION for a second or more.----Switch plug wires and repeat the test.----Orange / blue stripe is for the top cylinder.
 
Ok key is there not sheared.
Like Raceone said it should fire. You have spark but obviously it's at the wrong time. Swap the leads like he said. If that doesn't do it then maybe you installed incorrect parts?
 
Kinda good update:

I cleaned up the flywheel and i reviewed the could on the moveable plate. I noticed the 3 screws that hold the charge coil assembly were loose ( remember i put a new charge coil on the motor). I guess i neglected to tighten those screws. Once i tightened them up making sure the new charge coil was aligned correctly, i re-installed the flywheel.

A shot of fuel in the cylinders and it barked right off!! Hooked back up the fuel tank, and it started….but

Very quickly i saw no water coming out the pee port. I shut down and waited a few minutes . Started again, pretty easily, needs idle adjustment, but still no water peeing out. Shut down.

I do have a water pump kit and a lower unit seal kit. I guess it is that time now.

Watched a video and then removed the lower unit:
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Never done this before either… Oh Boy

... Steve
 
Well the saga continues..

Today’s update:

Lower unit back together and installed. All new seals, new water installed.

Four tricky parts (at least for me): (1) had to extend my puller to remove the bearing carrier. (2) i made a special puller to remove the shift lever bushing so new seals and washer could be installed. (3) I had to use a piece of 1”copper pipe to make my version of the special tool to hold the spring and balls in place while the propeller shaft was slid into place in the clutch dog gizmo. (4) i need a longer pair of snap ring pliers, the internal snap ring came off fine , but was a bear to go back on.

Lower unit went back on easily.

But the engine would not start. Fuel squirted straight in the cylinders, but no barking off. Nothing!!!

In my head it is still a timing issue. What about changing the remaining two coils? Sensor coil and the firing coil? I read those dont go bad too ofter, but thats the only old parts left in the ignition circuit???

This would now be the time for divine inspiration….
 

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Still struggling with my 1985 E25ELCOC outboard.
Will not start. Fuel direct into cylinders and no bark.
Compression test was 125psi both cylinders. After cranking plugs were wet with fuel, not dripping but definitely present. And spark was still good.
An oldtime mechanic friend mentioned that possibly the head gasket (between the cylinders) could be bad. It would give a good compression test but not run due to the cross over leak. I had nothing to lose.
Pulled the head cover, then the head, here are the pics:
I dont see an issue with the head gasket.
Before i reassemble with new gaskets, is there something else i should check while the head is off?
Other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
The head is warped.----They all are.----Refinish it before installing a new head gasket.----With fuel in the plug holes it has to bark like a vicious dog.----So you have no spark , timing is way off , sheared flywheel key or wires mixed up between cd box and coils.
 
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