Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Converting a Delco 470 distributor to Pertronics

W

wrestling_coach

Contributing Member
Converting my Delco distributor to Pertronics. When I remove the breaker plate I will find my advance weights. I want to be sure they are clean and working properly and have proper lubrication. Also there should be a felt washer to lubricate the main shaft. I have a synthetic oil for mountain bike chains and wondered if that would be OK to use for these areas in small amounts. If not I need suggestions.

Dennis
 
Dennis, you are wise to be concerned about the advancing flyweight and return spring system on an older distributor.

Two ways to check this:

1.... on engine with the harmonic balancer marked off to approx 35 degrees.
Strobe this with your std mode timing light as you increase RPM.
See if this plots out as per OEM specs.
Your greater concern will be an advance that occurs too early from springs that have become compromised.

2... pull the distributor and take it to a shop who owns a distributor machine.
They will be able to fully test the distributor.
They'll need your OEM spces.

The felt piece was likely there to lubricate the points cam.
Go ahead and lubricate the advancing system.
The work load is actually at/near the lower gear... and there will be plenty of lubrication in this area.


.
 
Ah yes the old Sun tach machines. Not sure I can find one of those. I do have a local speed shop that sets up distributors for IHRA drag cars. They could surely check it for me if I pull it out.

Dennis
 
Or do it on-engine!
All you need are the degree markings that give degrees up to the max advance that the engine will see.
Increase RPM as you strobe the markings.
Jot down each RPM increment of 500 rpm each (or so) up to the full-in RPM.

The machine is the better route to go, however.
Then you simply set BASE, and do a quick progressive/limit rpm check.
 
Yes I will try it on the engine first. But WOT has to be done on the water and not on the trailer. Right now I'm still on the trailer.

Thanks,
Dennis
 
Yes, the WOT RPM test is done under load.
Hull clean, drive ratio correct, engine in Full Tune, etc.
This is to test if the engine is propped correctly in that it will meet the OEM spec'd RPM.
Not a cruise RPM.........., just a testing RPM.
 
1. remove the point plate.
2. spray the advance mechanism with a good brake cleaner.
3. blow out with compressed air
4. spray with a good spray lubricant such as wd 40 but only lightly.

there is no other lubrication needed.

with the point plate removed, twist the shaft by hand to force the counter weights to spin out. If they do then you are good!

NO NEED TO GO THRU ANY DISTRIBUTOR BLUE PRINTING!!!!!

5 install new point plate that should come with the pertronix
6. mount pick up and cam cover (magnet) on shaft.
7 install rotor
8 install cap.


9. loosen distributor base clamp
10. attach timing light to number one plug wire cloe to the spark plug.
11. try to start engine. If it does not start the adjust distributor CW or CCW a small amount until it does.
12. when engine starts set timing to 4-6 degree BTDC and idle speed to ~ 650-700 rpms
13 tighten clamp.

DONE!
 
Kghost, I respectfully and stubbornly disagree with you regarding this:
kghost said:
with the point plate removed, twist the shaft by hand to force the counter weights to spin out. If they do then you are good!

NO NEED TO GO THRU ANY DISTRIBUTOR BLUE PRINTING!!!!!

12. when engine starts set timing to 4-6 degree BTDC and idle speed to ~ 650-700 rpms
13 tighten clamp.

DONE!
Click to expand...
What this does not take into account, would be any flyweight springs that have become compromised by rust and a change to the spring value. Rusty springs do not gain spring value, the value is compromised and deminished. A compromised spring value allows the flyweight system to throw an early advance to the engine.
Since the progressive curve and limit RPM are so dang important for our Marine Gassers, I just don't agree with taking this for granted on a distributor that is XX years old.

Now......, if no rust and/or no compromise to the flyweight system..... then yes..... all should be OK!

As for #12.......; BASE is BASE all day long! We fire up on BASE, and we idle on BASE advance. That's it!
The concerned mechanic is going to look at his progressive advance to see if it's doing what it should be doing by comparing it to the OEM specs.

Edit: I apologize for sounding so gruff on this... but I take this seriously for the Marine gassers.
You DO NOT want to create ignition induced detonation on one of these engines.


.
 
Last edited:
I 100% disagree with this in this case. This is a simple cyntifical wieght advance mechanism and if the springs are good and the wieghts move freely and completely it will work.

"The concerned mechanic is going to look at his progressive advance to see if it's doing what it should be doing by comparing it to the OEM specs.""

This is a simple 4 banger not some Hiperformance race machine............ If it works it works.

When he lake tests it he will know imeadiately if the advance is no good. It wont go above 2200 or so rpms.....been there done that!!

We have to make some assumtions that the BOAT OWNER who is doing the work can do what he needs to do when installing this kit.

GOOD suggestion on looking at spring condition though.

This advance system set up is very durable and if it has not been subjected to corrosive conditions then all should be good.

JMHO
 
Kghost, you're absolutely within your rights to disagree with me. I have no issues with that.
However, I believe that you are missing a very important aspect of this, IMO.

First.... I don't care to make assumptions like this..... if you do, well.....................

images


Secondly:
You are correct...... there will no engine damage if the advancing system brings the advance on too slowly.
Power will suffer and fuel comsuption will increase.
However, there may be engine damage if the advancing system brings the advance on too early.... certainly you know this.

Thridly:
To imply that detonation damage only occurs in high performance engines is just simply incorrect!
I could detonate just about any marine engine by messing with the progressive advance.

I just think that we owe it to an OP to at least offer the potentials as to what can be expected either way.

I fully agree with your last point! "Should" being a key word here!

*************************************


Dennis, for what this is worth, Mallory offers a conversion kit for the Delco distributor that gets you away from the Pertronix Hall Effect system.
You'd have to check with them to see if a kit is available for this engine.... but perhaps worth the effort.
This is an automotive conversion kit.... and if they offer a Marine kit, it will look similar to this.

http://www.skspeed.com/images-dyn/ProductImages/Thumb/M11501.jpg
 
Last edited:
Guys thanks for opinions and input. I always try to do things the right way the first time. Appreciate your experience and knowledge on this site.

Dennis
 
Dennis
I think when you refer to the felt washer, you are referring to the one that sits under the rotor. If so make sure it is in place as it is to be oiled liberally with any light weight oil. It is used to help lubricate the upper bushing on the distributor shaft I believe.
Bert
 
Hello, Dennis and Hi everybody,
Dennis these guys have saved me money and time and many thanks to all of you. Hopefully I can pay it back.
I live with two if these 470's in a Searay. Everybody is right on above, if you need it I have all of the manuals, including two copies of the orginals in paper as well as electronic versions of the service manuals and can help you on that if needed.

The timing spec for full advance is 25 deg @ 2,200 rpm to 28 deg @ 1,800 rpm then no advance after that up to max rpm. Orginal timing per the manual was 4 deg. and the service bulletin (from memory was 8 deg.) however I run mine at 6 per recommendation from the guys above to counter act the possiblity of bad gas. The my 470's will run better and are much happier at 8 deg vs. 4. especially at idle and low rpm. You cannot go wrong with the ingition conversion, but also do the coil and really good marine wires and plugs while you are at it then re-time it, reset the carb idle and check timing again. (I would post the advance graph but the file size is large).

Be careful when you install the ring on the distributor shaft, it is a slight interfernce fit, I used a spark plug wrench socket to drive it evenly on the shaft. if you are worried about the advance springs being weak go to NAPA and replace them, in the grand scheme of things they cost nothing.
Watch your oil and anti-freeze levels EVERY time you go out and temp when underway.
Enjoy your gas mileage and easier starting
Mark
 
mark_searay said:
Hello, Dennis and Hi everybody,
Dennis these guys have saved me money and time and many thanks to all of you. Hopefully I can pay it back.
I live with two if these 470's in a Searay. Everybody is right on above, if you need it I have all of the manuals, including two copies of the orginals in paper as well as electronic versions of the service manuals and can help you on that if needed.

The timing spec for full advance is 25 deg @ 2,200 rpm to 28 deg @ 1,800 rpm then no advance after that up to max rpm. Orginal timing per the manual was 4 deg. and the service bulletin (from memory was 8 deg.) however I run mine at 6 per recommendation from the guys above to counter act the possiblity of bad gas. The my 470's will run better and are much happier at 8 deg vs. 4. especially at idle and low rpm. You cannot go wrong with the ingition conversion, but also do the coil and really good marine wires and plugs while you are at it then re-time it, reset the carb idle and check timing again. (I would post the advance graph but the file size is large).

Be careful when you install the ring on the distributor shaft, it is a slight interfernce fit, I used a spark plug wrench socket to drive it evenly on the shaft. if you are worried about the advance springs being weak go to NAPA and replace them, in the grand scheme of things they cost nothing.
Watch your oil and anti-freeze levels EVERY time you go out and temp when underway.
Enjoy your gas mileage and easier starting
Mark
Click to expand...

Mark,
Thanks for the reply. I have the whole package ready to go. Pertronics module, Pertronics coil, Pertronics 8mm wires, new Echlin cap and rotor and NGK plugs. This is in a Grady White Tournament 19. Older boat but in spectacular condition and new to me. I'm trying to get a solid ignition system so I can troll for extended periods of time. Boat will be in Lake Ontario/St. Lawrence River where water temps are very cold. This should assist the engine cooling system. After I get it all installed I am going to start with my timing at 6*BTDC with the engine idling as slow as I can get it to keep any advance out of it. I'll see how happy it is from there.

Dennis
 
bertg said:
Dennis
I think when you refer to the felt washer, you are referring to the one that sits under the rotor. If so make sure it is in place as it is to be oiled liberally with any light weight oil. It is used to help lubricate the upper bushing on the distributor shaft I believe.
Bert
Click to expand...

Bert,
Yes I was. I will soak it good as I do any clean up in there as needed.

Dennis
 
wrestling_coach said:
Bert,
Yes I was. I will soak it good as I do any clean up in there as needed.

Dennis
Click to expand...


This is only needed for breaker points.......no need for it with breker LESS system.

The lubrication sponge was/is there to lubricate the point contact on the distributor cams so the non metalic surface does not get hot and wear away prematurely.

If this is what you are refering to then it is not needed and if I am not mistaken the NEW point plate that comes with the kit does not have a place for it anyway.....
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
One can argue me on this but in my estimation all marine applications are high performance. The engine and drive gear is allways under a load unless in neutral. There is no coasting down hill it is a constant up hill climb you have up and stop. Do not use WD as a lube it will dry out and wear the parts premature Taking it apart and cleaning it properly wont hurt just be careful not to bend the springs. A light application of high quality lithium grease will go a long way and give a nice smooth advance. If it dont look right it probably aint. I wouldnt waste money on parts until you check the curve it has worked this long chances are it will work alot longer if your thorough. A good coil that meets recommended specs for the ignitor is highly recommended.http://www.hot-spark.com/1-3DEL4U1.htm Hot spark makes a good product also just make sure the kit you get is for marine applications.
Click to expand...

Not arguing but clearing things up.

Most normal pleasure boat motors such as is discussed here are NOT high performance!

They are run of the mill standard issue motors from a certain manufacturer ie: ford, Gm etc etc.

Other than some special considerations to the marine enviroment there is nothing high performance about them.

Mercury and others do have a line of high performance engines with very high output and little or no warrenty.........lol Use them at your own risk...

What is sort of bieng discussed here is the need to possibly over do a simple electronic distributor convertion.

My point was/is if the wieghts are free moving, the springs are not sprung or look bad (which is easy to see!!) then that is as far as one needs to go for this project.

I will say that I have intimate knowledge/experience with the 4 cyclinder distributor especially the 470 line. spent many a hour trouble shooting ignition issues on these over the years, bad bushings, corroded wieghts and springs, frozen wieghts and springs and especially one good isssue that I thought was a timing/ignition iisue and turned out to be a bad radiator cap leakinfg antifreeze down into the spark plugs shorting them out........that will screw up a running engine and it seems just like a timing issue..........

anyway just my opinion...........
 
wrestling_coach said:
Mark,
Thanks for the reply. I have the whole package ready to go. Pertronics module, Pertronics coil, Pertronics 8mm wires, new Echlin cap and rotor and NGK plugs. This is in a Grady White Tournament 19. Older boat but in spectacular condition and new to me. I'm trying to get a solid ignition system so I can troll for extended periods of time. Boat will be in Lake Ontario/St. Lawrence River where water temps are very cold. This should assist the engine cooling system. After I get it all installed I am going to start with my timing at 6*BTDC with the engine idling as slow as I can get it to keep any advance out of it. I'll see how happy it is from there.

Dennis
Click to expand...

If all is good with your carb, cam, compression etc. You should be able to idle down this motor to ~ 400 rpms with no issues.
Of course the final idle rpms should be 600-700 in gear with NO throttle applied.

The need for the lower rpms is a good clean shift engagement. If your idle gets too far above 750 rpms then your will hear a very loud CLUNK when shifting and eventually take out a gear tooth in the lower unit.

As far as timing goes almost any motor likes a lot of timing at low rpms........BUT in the case of this motor especially, it has a very long and negative history of serious mechanical engine failures. Most due to water or antifreeze in the engines but also cylinder 1 and or cylinder 4 developing seriuos rod/piston issues.
Merc warrentied these motors far into the '90's and long after there intial warrenty period expired due to the cronic failures.

That bieng said 6 degrees BTDC or less is reccomended due to low octane fuels and the susseptabliity of pre ignition on these motors and the internal damage that may occurr as a result.

My specifics may be a bit off but i think you get the overall issues and concerns.
 
Dennis, hang in there. I'm rather sorry that you are needing to wade through a little disagreement here. Also hope that which ever advice you take to be worthy, that it helps you out.
And again, I think that you are wise to be questioning yourself and investigating this.

wrestling_coach said:
After I get it all installed I am going to start with my timing at 6*BTDC with the engine idling as slow as I can get it to keep any advance out of it. I'll see how happy it is from there.
Click to expand...
Dennis, if this means checking to see where the progressive advance is..... excellent!
That's all I've been suggesting.... whether on-engine, or in a shop on a distributor machine.

Dennis, I will question Mark's timing specs, and perhaps Mark will come back and qualify.
Mark said:
The timing spec for full advance is 25 deg @ 2,200 rpm to 28 deg @ 1,800 rpm then no advance after that up to max rpm.
If the 25 deg @ 2,200 rpm includes all advance (BASE and Mechanical) it seems early to me.... but you could certainly verify this.
However, there is something definitely wrong with the 28 deg @ 1,800 rpm
IMO, it would very important to verify this.

*********************************************

Kghost, you say that you're not arguing and that you want to clear things up. I agree... let's clear things up.
It's all the more important that we don't add to any confusion or misrepresentation by bickering back and forth, nor do we need to tout our experience and puff up our feathers!
We need to help these people, but also need to understand that many do not have the same skill levels that we may have.
Let's arm these people with what will best serve them as to prevent issues, even if this means a bit of "Over-Explaining" re; certain aspects...., then hope that they are more able to make a educated decision.
That's why they're here in the first place.


Take the mechanical progressive ignition advance, for example... since it has become the additional topic of discussion.
Most all OEM service or work shop manuals will offer ignition timing specs that include base advance and TA.
Mark was able to find his OEM specs... although there's a bit of qualification needed re; the 28 deg @ 1,800 rpm.
Not only does the OEM suggest a TA, but the RPM at which TA is to occur.
The OEM has given us these specs for very good reason.

Kghost, I highly doubt that you tune up a Marine Engine by setting base advance and without additionally looking at the progressive advance to verify that it is correct and within specs.

For those of us who do not look further, I believe that we are doing a disservice to ourselves AND to our customers.

You also mentioned "Pre-Ignition" in one of your previous posts...... pre-ignition is NOT the main concern.
Perhaps you are confusing Pre-Ignition with Detonation. These are two entirely different phenomenon.
Detonation can be very difficult to hear and detect while cruising down the water with an engine hatch closed.




.
 
Last edited:
wrestling_coach said:
Guys,
I am all ears here and soaking this up like a sponge so I might be able to pay it forward someday.
Dennis
Click to expand...
Please do. That's what it's all about. :D


Kghost, thank you, and if this is correct, it's what both Dennis and Mark need to see.

attachment.php



Dennis and Mark, something to note here.
Most OEM ignition curve graphs will show the vertical scale minus BASE advance.
When shown as such, BASE must be added when doing the math.
This particular curve graph notes that BASE is NOT included.
(see the notation in the vertical scale and in the "Important" heading at the top)

This will be important to you when doing the math and when applying the numbers to an actual on-engine TA assessment.

Now, I have question:
If you look at the "max" scale @ 2k RPM, you'll see that it shows approximately 30*, and if you were to add BASE of 6*, that equals a TA of 36* @ 2k RPM.
TA of 36* @ 2k RPM..............
Does that not sound high and early to you????
This is quite different from Mark's spec for full advance is 25 deg @ 2,200 rpm
I may be wrong, but I would be questioning this.
 
Last edited:
RicardoMarine said:
""""Kghost, you say that you're not arguing and that you want to clear things up. I agree... let's clear things up.
It's all the more important that we don't add to any confusion or misrepresentation by bickering back and forth, nor do we need to tout our experience and puff up our feathers!
We need to help these people, but also need to understand that many do not have the same skill levels that we may have.
Let's arm these people with what will best serve them as to prevent issues, even if this means a bit of "Over-Explaining" re; certain aspects...., then hope that they are more able to make a educated decision.
That's why they're here in the first place. """"


I am not "puffing feathers" simply stating that I am not just randomly suggesting something. Rather I have first hand experience and a lot of it on this specific issue!


"""Take the mechanical progressive ignition advance, for example... since it has become the additional topic of discussion.
Most all OEM service or work shop manuals will offer ignition timing specs that include base advance and TA.
Mark was able to find his OEM specs... although there's a bit of qualification needed re; the 28 deg @ 1,800 rpm.
Not only does the OEM suggest a TA, but the RPM at which TA is to occur.
The OEM has given us these specs for very good reason.""""


I have posted the specs, He was close if not correct




""Kghost, I highly doubt that you tune up a Marine Engine by setting base advance and without additionally looking at the progressive advance to verify that it is correct and within specs. ""

when facing 100's of boats each season who need a point ignition tune up, it would be impossible to confirm total advance for each while in the shop. That is a waste of time and not to mention very few if any would be hooked up to water/hose. no running in the shop unless really needed. Experience/proper proticol dictates a lake test after each boat is serviced and given a thorough run to confirm EVERYTHING is working. If a issue is determined/found then look to see what it is and correcting it before returning to the customer.





""For those of us who do not look further, I believe that we are doing a disservice to ourselves AND to our customers.

You also mentioned "Pre-Ignition" in one of your previous posts...... pre-ignition is NOT the main concern.
Perhaps you are confusing Pre-Ignition with Detonation. These are two entirely different phenomenon.
Detonation can be very difficult to hear and detect while cruising down the water with an engine hatch closed. """"


What ever the correct name of the combustion malfunction it is bad for the engine. But thanks for specifying the difference between the two.


.
Click to expand...


I have added to the quote within the quote
 
Great stuff guys. Love the graph. Math calculation for TA so noted. Advance will be all in around 2000 rpm. That won't be hard to check when I get in the water and have a partner to help out.

Dennis
 
Last edited:
Kghost, let me see if I have this right! No offense intended... I'm simply trying to make a few points here.

Let's say that you're doing a tune up, and you're at the point of setting the initial timing.
In order to set initial or BASE advance, the engine must be running, correct?
When we run a stern drive engine while out of the water....., we are connecting the sea water system to a water supply, correct?
When connected to a water supply we can run the engine, correct?
While the OEM suggests to not operate at high RPM for any long duration (while on the garden hose), we experienced mechanics know that a short higher rpm run can be done with zero adverse effects. Would you agree?

If your answer is yes, why then are you NOT increasing RPM for a very short duration in order to see where the progressive advance is?
Or... is rolling the dice ok with you?

OK... I'm going to go against my earlier comment regarding touting and feathers:
In all my years of doing marine related ignition timing work, inluding my older days in the later 60's of automotive work, I have never allowed an engine to leave my possession without having checked the progressive advance.
I don't care if it's been a brand new ignition system, or an old one.

When we add to this that Marine Engine loads are quite unique from that of automotive engine loads, and when we consider that Marine Engine load Detonation is extremely damaging, this becomes even more important, IMO.
I am not willing to roll the dice.




.
 
Last edited:
Ricardo, I believe Mallory makes the distributor that you were referring to. I think they are pretty expensive but it would get rid of the halls effect (pertronix) setup. I was looking into it not too long ago. I have the same motor as wrestling coach and was wondering if you guys had any experiences with detonation issues with the 470's during your careers? Just trying to find out a little more info. from guys that worked on them for years such as kghost and the rest of you guys. I have read some posts on a few other sites that have discussed all of the issues in concern. I took my distributor apart and cleaned everything up really well during my rebuild project just to be safe. It was actually in pretty good shape before I started but did everything that you guys suggested above because I was concerned about what Ricardo had mentioned. The original base timing was brought down from 8 to 4 as we all know. Most guys with the pertronix find that the engine performs best with the base set around 5 to 6 but that is if all else is well and good. I also figured that I would mention to wrestling coach that he can gap his plugs to .040 but no more. I also found that my engine seems to run nicely between 3600-3800rpm. Temps seem to be more stable and the boat moves nicely through the water. I still occasionally bring the engine to wot for short periods just to make sure she is running right but not too much. I believe the 470 reaches maximum torque at around 3800 rpm according to an old timer on another site. I have yet to find any data on the subject. You can set base timing at wherever you want between 4 and eight but I myself would never set base at 8 just because of the lousy fuel that's out there along with the known piston failure issues. Just me I guess, but I like to play it safe especially after dumping alot of money rebuilding. Just cost too much not too be concerned.

I think you guys are all "spot on" as Ricardo would say and this site is like a "think tank" that surely generates a wealth of great information. I have the same setup as wrestlingcoach and the engine seems to perform well but I still get concerned at higher rpms and try to avoid running wot often unless it is otherwise necessary. But that's just me! lol later guys, Tom
 
Rick
to make a long story short. perform a point ignition replacement. do a cranking dwell and timing set up in shop. when all activity is complete fire boat off to confirm it starts.
put boat in water start on trailer. warm up then confirm dwell and base timing and readjust if needed.
when specs on basic tune up are met take boat out for lake test.

if any issues that may suggest timing not advancing are detected then doublecheck for max advance.
again this is a matter of choice for a mechanic and of course it would be optimal to do or perform every dwtail when servicing a boat but in reality if it aint broke dont fix it. in over 1000 or more point tune ups performed I came across maybe 5 timing issues. 1 the distributor gear roll pin had sheared. the remaining 4 were rusted counter wieghts.
One more thing I worked in a freah water enviroment so I did not come across what typically is found in a salt water enviroment. With all that bieng said of course the boat owner should know where his boat specs are if doing his own work. but from a service point of view with hundreds of boats waiting to be serviced one does what is neccessary to get the job done. I am not suggesting short cuts at all but again IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT.

JMHO.......

And of course I would not take offense to any critacisism most of the time ....lol
 
Last edited:
Tom (BrowningMarine), I believe that you are correct, and that Mallory does offer both VR and Photo-eye for the 470.
The Delco kit that I referred to was Photo-eye, which would get Dennis away from the Hall Effect Pertronix unit.
A better choice yet, IMO, would be VR.

And as you know, any change to BASE affects the mechanical progressive and TA to the same degree (no pun intended).
In the case where Tom mentioned that a BASE of 8* works out better than a BASE of 4* (for low speeds), you could take that same 4* off of the limit stops (actually only 2 distributor degrees), and accomplish the correct curve and TA limit RPM.
You'd then have your 8* BASE and idle performance that you may prefer.
It's all a matter of adjusting the mechanical limits within the mechanical advancing system.

*********************************

Back to Kghost and not running on a water supply while setting timing in the shop:

In Dennis' other thread "Improper timing and engine temp", Dennis asks if timing can affect operating temperature.
Kghost posts:
Yes it would! It is important if running the original points ignition to have the poit gap (dwell) set to spec and the timing set 2 degree less than spec. I believe the timimg spec was 6 Degrees BTDC, Merc released a bulliten way back in the day to set to 4 degree BTDC due to so preignition issues and other motor failure issues with that motor.
Click to expand...
So I'm pretty sure that Kghost is very aware that too much ignition advance can be a serious problem.

What causes too much advance too early if BASE is set correctly????
Answer: Worn or compromised flyweight springs that are allowing the flyweights an early and premature flight! :mad:


While I'm fairly savvy at diagnosing ignition issues, my thoughts are..... that if not only BASE is set in the shop, but if we take a quick look at the progressive and TA while in the shop....., then this becomes a "Known" right there and then!
If we DO NOT check this, then it has the potential to become an on-the-water "Hmmmmm, I wonder if I should NOW check this?"
I'll take the "in-the-shop-known" rather than the on-the-water "Hmmmmm".

Hey, each to his own, I suppose.
That too is a beauty of a forum.........., we're free to suggest what we want to suggest.


.
 
Browning,
I have set the plug gap @.040 with NGK plugs. I have NGK in my Johnson 90 2 stroke and love them. Also have the Pertronics 8mm wires. This is an '83 Grady White 19' Tarpon (Tournament) dual console fresh water boat only. Never docked, always on the trailer and always stored indoors. Engine is bone stock. I have a nice platform to work on here.

Dennis
 
Back
Top