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Continued Heat alarm after installing complete new pump assembly.

intruder#29

New member
motor alarm continues to go off and motor begins to shut down. Performed Repeted Flushes, removed debree from lines, thermostats,ect. checked thermostats for opening, now have strong stream of water from p tube . HELP
 
J175GLETG - 1993 175hp Johnson

If the engine doesn't actually feel hot/overheated.... perhaps you have a malfunctioning heat sensor?
 
J175GLETG - 1993 175hp Johnson

If the engine doesn't actually feel hot/overheated.... perhaps you have a malfunctioning heat sensor?

Not sure about temp. amount. Engine is certainly warm, as I have to idle 5 mins. or more thru no wake area before being able to power up. how do you determine whether engine is over heated other than trusting alarm? Also system on engine begins,after a few secs. to reduce rphs with a pulsing action. I am feeling that engine is telling me, whooh fool, I am too hot. I can putz arount at idle and buzzer stops. Stays off at any rpms under 15, 16 17, hundred . Min . I power up past that point. alarm goes off and system begins to slow eng. rpms . Have tried very hard to make sure there is good water pressure going to engine, strong stream from p tube, do not want to hurt engine but frustrated after repeated attempts to solve this problem
 
There is a tool, such like a laser beam that one can aim at any surface to obtain a exact reading of the heat BUT for the life of me I cannot think of the proper name of it.

When the alarm sounds, you could temporarily disconnect the heat sensor (one at a time) at the cylinder heads to determine which bank (if only one) is overheating...... If there was a lot of salt buildup at the thermostat area, the water passages of the powerhead would have that same clogging buildup.

Was the engine overheating previously OR was the water pump replacement just a "time to change" thing? What condition was the old water pump in?

If the engine wasn't overheating previously, there is the possibility that the goofy looking "O" Ring that seals the impeller housing to the plate may have slipped slightly (been there). Yeah, I know it's a pain to double check ones work but sometimes..........!

For what it's worth, I use the following to make sure that "O" Ring is sealed securely.

OMC Adhesive is now Bombardier 3M Product #847 and may be listed as Scotchgrip 847, part number 776964
 
what Joe is referring to is an infrared temp gun, if the engine was not overheating before the repair, then look at the last thing you did, if it was the probably there is still a blockage somewhere, or the water pump is not putting enough water at higher rpms, so go back to the water pump and make sure all is ok.
 
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