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Cold weather storage

searay210kw

New member
2001 MerCruiser 5.0 305 Chevy w/carb engine.
1- I read the factory manual and it says to change to engine oil as part of the process. Some experts recommend leaving the oil in the engine until
spring commissioning in case water accumulates from condensation. I plan to use the threaded factory engine dipstick mounting to pump the engine oil from the pan.
2- My local Mercury dealer marina does not fog the engine for cold weather prep. The factory manual says to fog it. Oil fog options? Thoughts?
Thanks

Keith in NE Pennsylvania
 
Keith - the experts will chime-in but change oil now. I don't want that old oil sitting in my oil pan or outdrive for 4-6 month and any any condensation will burn off in the spring. Your winter storage concentration should be addressing the water in your engine so it doesn't freeze.
 
I live on the "Jersey Shore" and always fog my 2006 5.7 carbed engine. Over the years, I've followed the "factory" idle and spray until lit stalls protocol but have had issues... I ran across another procedure that I prefer and have been using for the last 6 seasons...
Shut off fuel line. Run engine until carb dry, make sure you have a water source!, Shut off ignition.
Disconnect the lead from the distributor to the coil/ignition module. Open throttle all the way (primaries only on 4bbl.) . REmove flame arrestor. Put a mark on the vibration damper. Have some one crank engine while you spray fogging fluid into one of the primary carb throats for at least two complete revolutions of the damper. Repeat for the other throat. If alone invest in a remote starter & connect it to slave solenoid COIL + connection and to the HOT terminal to the solenoid.. I then stick a plastic bag over the carb throats and replace the flame arrestor. Uses less fogging fluid and avoids risk of locking the engine from excess fogging fluid. Reconnect the lead to the distributor.
 
Always change oil at the end of the season. Do it again when you start the season. Depending on use, you may need another change mid season. Oil is cheap insurance. You cannot go wrong by keeping fresh oil in the pan.
The reason for changing frequently is to prevent the acidification of the oil from doing bad things to your engine's guts. It's not about condensation. Whoever told you that doesn't know what they're talking about.
 
Fogging for only 4-5 months is overkill. It won't hurt anything if u do, and nothing bad will happen if you don't.
 
Below is my Winterization procedure. Use or don't but it is how I have done it for a very long time including to my own boat

Winterization for a Mercruiser V8 or V6.​



Note 1: My method below describes how I winterize a marine engine. I personally do not change the engine oil/filter or outdrive gear oil in the fall. Have not for 30+ years.

Note 2 : The outdrive when it sits all winter in the cold, seals can go bad regardless if pressure checked in the fall or the gear oil is water free. If the drive is not serviced properly in the spring the gear oil could possibly leak causing extensive damage.

Proper outdrive Spring Service includes Drain and pressure check and check gimbal bearing and grease any fittings needing grease and new O-rings as supplied in gasket kit and grease the splined drive shaft and the two o-rings on shaft.

My winterization procedure: Done on trailer.

RAW WATER cooled only (not closed/fresh water cooling systems)​

Add appropriate amount of Stabil to gas tank.

With Drive Down and allowed to sit for at least 2 hours so if any water present will flow to bottom of outdrive.

Remove lower unit oil fill plug and check for water contamination. If oil looks good reinstall plug. If oil is milky or water comes out, outdrive must be serviced/repaired by (pressure checking) to find bad seal before winter storage.

Hook up water hose to ear muffs and attach to outdrive and make sure outdrive is lowered almost all the way down.

Turn on water at hose.

Start engine and let run for ~30 minutes at ~ 1000 rpms. (this allows Stable added to gas tank to reach Carb)

Turn engine off.

Turn water off and remove ear muffs. (leave outdrive down for now)

Remove engine block water plugs, they are on the right side and left sides of engine near center of block and very close to oil pan, Typically Bronze material.(Could be two piece, Single plug, or Plastic winged screw type)

Once the plug(s) have been removed, Poke thru with small screw driver to loosen up all cast and rust so the water flows out in a steady stream.

Remove the plugs in the exhaust manifolds, they are under the manifold ¾ of the way back towards the back of engine, poke it clear so the water comes out in a steady stream. If Plastic winged type remove them and make sure water flows good.

Remove the two water hoses in the front of the engine where it attaches to the top of thermostat housing that go to Elbows. If No hoses go to elbows, Remove the two hoses at thermostat housing that go to bottom of Exhaust Manifolds

Remove the incoming water hose (the one coming in on the right hand side (oil filter side) that comes from the transom and goes thru the power steering cooler.

Remove the LARGE hose that is U shaped from the engine water pump to the thermostat housing (remove from the thermostat housing side only and after engine blocks has drained, twist the hose down towards the bilge to drain any remaining water out of hose).

When the water has drained out of the block and the manifold reinstall the plugs. DO NOT over tighten them just good and snug.

Have 1 gallon of RV antifreeze ready, pour ¼ of it into the two hoses that go to elbows or exhaust manifolds depending on what system you have and it will go directly into the exhaust elbows/manifold.

Pour ¼ of the RV antifreeze into the incoming water hose (SLOWLY) and make sure you hear/see it come out the outdrive intake ports!!!

This back flushes the incoming water thru the power steering cooler and the transom assembly thru outdrive (you may have to raise the hose up several inches to allow the antifreeze to flow). Pour the rest of the RV antifreeze into the LARGE hose that was removed from the thermostat housing, this goes straight into the engine.

Reinstall all the hoses and tighten the clamps.

Raise the outdrive to trailer position.

Unhook battery and you are done!!

Note 3: When outdrive is in the down position it is self draining.

This applies to most V8 amd V6 cylinder Mercruiser Carbed engines RAW WATER cooled only (not closed cooling systems)


.
 
One thing about 4.3L GM engines- the intake manifold has a plug at the front- I never heard about problems from not removing it, but when I worked for a different boat dealer a few years ago, I was told that if the water is drained out and no antifreeze is used, the water won't leave the intake manifold and the shop manager explained that he had seen some engines with cracks due to expansion. Since he was in charge, it's the way he wanted it done, so I followed the instructions.

For the little time required, it's a good idea to remove the plug.

We disconnected all of the hoses at the lowest spots and kept all plugs in a bag that was tied to the steering wheel in boats that we Winterized, stored and Summerized- anything that went with the boat owner was left in a condition where the hull plug needed to be reinstalled and the battery connected in order to take it to the water- many boat owners aren't willing to do that much work to get ready.

WRT gear oil- at the least, it should be checked before Winter- even if it has water, checking it by removing the lowest plug will show this and since it will settle to the bottom anyway, this allows the water to be drained out and a bit of new oil pumped in, if someone wants. Then, it can be drained/replaced in Spring, preferably with pressure test if it does have water. Older boats usually need oil seals at some point and it's better to find out before going out.
 
People who recommend leaving the oil sit in there are not experts. I don't wanna go into a detailed mansplanation since you can find out all this on your own. Look up TAN or oil acid number.
 
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