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Can't start after winter

D

Dude

New member
Hi guys,

I have a Honda from the 80's.
Every year, it's the same story: I can't start it after the winter, probably because there are too many spiders in it.
Normally, I let a pro fix it, but I'm getting a little tired of being ripped by a guy who spends 5 minutes on it, so if I could learn how to do it myself, that would be awesome.

In terms of symptoms, it started surprisingly easily this year, 2-3 pulls, I left it run for a couple of minutes, but when I got out and put it on neutral between heading backwards and forwards, it stalled and then it was impossible to restart, with or without choke, pumping or not, with some gas or not, etc.
I checked if there was any leak or air intake in the gas tubing or plug, no problem.

I've attached 3 photos in case that makes it easier for you to tell me which parts I should check/clean.

Thanks a million for your hints!
 

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Do you run the fuel out / drain the carburetor when motor is not being used for more than a week ???-------Clean the carburetor and that is very easy to do !!------------Also easy to learn how to do it.
 
Well, you didn't give us much info....BF 5? BF 75? BF 100?...other than "spiders".

That may be enough though. It does sound like spider webs are probably your issue. Although, I agree with racerone that improper layup prep could be part of it. Do you completely drain the carb before layup?

While these little carbs are VERY simple, they can be a challenge for people that just can't hold a screwdriver.

One "give away", if you will, is that you say the "guy" gets it going in 5 minutes. That HAS to be the carb and is likely debris from critters in the air jet passages.

There are two "screw heads" on the upper side of the carb (seen on the right side of the outboard in your first photo).
The one towards the rear, or mounting end of the carb is the idle mixture screw. The other one, located more like in the center of the carb is the "slow jet". It is sort of a cap with an oring on the bottom.

What your guy probably does is take out the idle mix screw...then takes off the slow jet cap and checks for cobwebs. Then he probably sprays compressed air.... from one of those little computer cleaning cans you can buy at Office Depot...into the air passage that feeds that circuit at the front of the carb. NOT the big hole for the Venturi passage that the engine breathes through, but a smaller little passage off to the side of the big one.

That would clean it out with maybe an added shot of air through the passage from where the slow jet cap installs.

Reinstall the idle mixture screw and turn it in the EXACT same turns it took to take it out...install the cap.... 5 minutes and you're back in business!

Of course, you could drain the carb at the end of each season and then use shrink wrap and a heat gun to seal out dust, dirt and BUGS.... then you wouldn't need to go through the exercise anymore at all.

That, along with using CLEAN, FRESH fuel each time you fire her up should keep you on the water and out of the garage.

Good luck.
 
Thanks guys for your answers.
I took the carburetor off (first time of my life).
Opened it and found some rusty deposit as well as kind of snowflakes.
Cleaned all that, the engine started at the first pull.
It's cool to learn something new!

Thanks again
 
Dude said:
Thanks guys for your answers.
I took the carburetor off (first time of my life).
Opened it and found some rusty deposit as well as kind of snowflakes.
Cleaned all that, the engine started at the first pull.
It's cool to learn something new!

Thanks again
Click to expand...
Great! Good for you! But you did get lucky. You're lucky because this is the older BC type carb and is very simple in design. If you were dealing with one just a couple of years newer (BG type) it may have gone much differently. I say this not to diminish your success but as a warning to all that have carb engines that are reading the post. Avoid this type of problem by draining the carb for any layup of more than a week.
As to your "rusty deposits".....THAT didn't come from the outboard. So, if you're using an older metal tank, it may be time for a new plastic one. If you like the metal one...I do...they sell a kit for cleaning and relining the interior of motorcycle gas tanks. I use the "rust away" agent they sell at Harbor Freight (cheapest one) and then apply the liner mix. Or, you could just drain and de-rust every season.
Happy boating.
 
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