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BF90 not reaching 5500 RPM, runs great not a prop issue

glide06

New member
This is my 1st post here. Have been reading and can see there are knowledgable people here.
Here is a brief history of my motor. The motor sat up for 2 yrs before I bought it. Previous owner said it got 5000 rpm at WOT. Currently I am only getting 4000 rpm at WOT.

I have accomplished the following up to this point:
Clean & flush gas tank and fuel lines, replace water separator, replace inline fuel filter, clean and inspect fuel pumps, Disassemble and clean carbs twice (1st time soak for 24 hr, 2nd time ultrasonic clean each for 1 hour), verify valve lash gaps, verify thermostat operation, adjust throttle cable for correct WOT operation, adjust carb linkage for correct operation, replace CDI unit with new one, syncronize all 4 carbs, check for air leaks around intake manifold and carbs, replace tach with new unit, replace spark plugs.

The motor runs very well. Starts easily, idles well. Accelerates without a miss, quickly decelerates without missing. No carb sputtering at all. The issue is that it tops out at 4000 rpm in the water under load. . Checked the plugs while out on the water to ensure not running lean. Tan color indicates correct fuel mixture.

In nuetral the motor will rev up to 4300 rpm then start missing. That is why I replaced the CDI unit as the timing is electronically controlled. This test rules out a propellor problem. I verified the pulser coil and ignition coil resistance (in spec)

Using a seperate fuel tank with new gas and a fuel transfer pump, I bypassed the fuel pumps and fed directly to the carbs. 4000 rpm was all the motor would turn.

Spark will jump a 3/8" gap. Not sure what else to try. Perhaps someone has seen something similar to this problem and can give me some insight.
 
Sounds like you have checked or changed most everything...

How does reving the motor in neutral to 4300 rule out a propeller problem? This is new to me.

What size and type of boat did the motor come off?

What size and type of boat is it one now? Is it the same boat?

What is the size and type of prop that you are using?

Mike
 
Mike,
Thanks for the reply.
What I was referring to was by reving the motor in nuetral (and therefore not under load) the propellor is not in the loop at that time, so it could not be the prop preventing the motor from revving up beyond 4300.

The boat is a 17' Henry O. Weight of 1100 lbs. I purchased Boat/ motor as a package.
Propeller is a 13.25" x 17 pitch. It is a RevTech stainless steel 3 blade

Jim
 
The prop is probably about the right size for that size boat. Not really sure.

Have you performed a cylinder drop test to assure that all carbs are working?

I am assuming (do not be insulted) that you are trimming the motor up once on plane?

Where in the country are you boating? Are you at any altitude? You will lose horsepower and rpm when operating above sea level...if you are in Denver...

Is the cavitation plate (the horizontal plate just above the prop) even with or about 1 inch or so above the bottom of the boat?

Does the motor pick up in speed if you hit the choke while you are running?

One last thing...you did not say if you checked the compression.

Is it possible that someone has changed out your carbs with those of a 75 HP? I just ran across one this week on this site. They look the same but have different numbers on them. If it says BF40 with about 5 or 6 numbers and letters behind it, it is a 90HP carb. If it says BF35, then it is a 75 HP carburator.

Sorry for all the questions. If you have good compression (still in question), good spark (you have checked), good fuel (you have checked - many ways), timing is correct (I assume you checked this when you adjusted valve clearances), exhaust is clear (very hard to check), then things point to carbs or some other outside factor.

What is the motor's serial number? Does it have any previous problems?

I know there are a lot of questions and no answers yet.

Mike
 
Thanks for the questions.
Have not performed a cylinder drop test, however I did perform a compression check, all cylinders at
185 psi +/- 1psi.
I do trim the motor and operate on the southern atlantic coast. Cavitation plate is properly placed as mentioned.
Choking while running will cause engine to stumble.


I appreciate your questions.
I HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM....what was causing my confusion was the new tachometer. It is #37250-ZV5-950AH.
rated for BF40 - BF225. It is not indicating the engine rpm correctly. I borrowed a calibrated digital, hand held, contact type tachometer to verify the boat tach.
By placing the hend tach on the center of the flywheel I read the following values:
Boat tach Hand tach
1000 1500
2000 3000
4000 6000
4300 6600 (over rev kicks in)

So the engine is running at the rated rpm, which is good. Now just need to find out why the boat tach is indicating
incorrectly.
 
Most tachs have settings on the back to adjust for the particular engine. I had to reset my Faria tach from the original setting to solve my indicated rpm issue.
 
Well, now that you have worked on just about everything on that engine, you should know it well and have confidence in its performance.
 
Glad you found the problem.

Since you have a Faria gauge, the switch on the back should be set to 1 for a BF90. If it already is set there, take a small screwdriver and rotate it back and forth a couple of times
then be sure when you put it back to 1, that the little rotating part of the switch pops out a little to indicate that it is in place.

Mike
 
tach 002.jpgtach 001.jpg




Does your tach look like this one? If so, it is only compatible with BF35-BF50 pre 2006. It will read incorrectly with the 90 HP.

The part number that you listed is not for this tachometer.

Mike
 
What year I have a 2002 and it has a 15 pitch. I was told by the marina that I deal with that the RPMs should be around 5500 and that a 15 pitch comes with that motor. Hope that helped.
 
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