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BF30A LHA won't accerate

Ryboy01

New member
I have a 2002 BF30A2 LHA that starts and idles just fine, but will not accelerate. It will only do maybe 30% of the total throttle. The power is steady and does not bog, surge, or die, it just stays steady at the lower throttle even when given 100% on the gas. The idle seems to be running rougher than normal.

Before this current issue, we had an old fuel issue so we cleaned out the portable tank, purged the lines, tested the primer bulb, rebuilt the carburetors, changed spark plugs and changed the filters. We only use ethanol-free gas with Stab-bil fuel stabilizer. It was working great after we did this and had full throttle.

Most recently the impeller in the water pump disintegrated so we cleaned all the pieces we could find, changed the impeller, pump liner, seal ring, and thermostat. We also back-flushed from the thermostat and nothing came out. The motor is peeing normally from the telltale, but the water doesn't feel as warm as it was before. The throttle problem started after the impeller change.

We thought the motor was going into "limp mode" to protect itself, so we checked all tubes and water flow. As I mentioned the motor shoots a steady stream out the pee-hole. Even when washing the boat, the pee-hole water is cold. We inspected the water flow again thinking there may be a blockage somewhere, but found nothing. We ordered a gasket for the water jacket to see if something is blocked in there. Not sure if something needs to be done to take the motor out of limp mode.

We did test and gap each spark plug. Not sure if related or not, but the top cylinder spark plug porcelain was whiter that the other two spark plugs, almost looked unused. Was thinking about testing ignition coils with a multimeter next.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi,
It sounds like that it's possible you could be running on just two cylinders. You can prove me right or prove me wrong by peeforming a cylinder contribution test.

Pulli one plug wire at a time while the engine is running in a test tank or large container of water. Note the change in engine rpm and sound.

The cylinder that makes the least or no difference is the weak or not firing hole. Once you know which one it is you can target that one for investigation.

Doing the test is best if you first smear a dab of dielectric (tune-up) grease on the inside edge of each spark plug boot. Makes getting the plug wire off and back on easier.

Trying different rpm can help....idle and 2500 are typical choices but you don't need to be exact if you don't have a tachometer. Don't exceed 1/2 throttle. Reduce throttle to reinstall a plug wire before moving to next cylinder.

Caution! performing this test can result in getting shocked! Use insulated pliers or thick, dry gloves.

Do not attempt if you wear a pacemaker or are a heart patient!

Good luck.
 
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