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BF250A

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Knux55

New member
I have muffs on my 2017 BF250A. After starting I noticed I wasn’t getting any water out of the “pee hole”. I removed the muffs and hooked the hose up to the flush port connector. Within in a few seconds I had water coming out of the exhaust port and pee hole. I flushed the motor for 10 minutes then reconnected my muffs and started the motor, still nothing coming out of the pee hole. Does the motor need to warm up and open the thermostat before motor will begin peeing?

Thanks
 
Hi,

I have no experience with the 250 but I hang out here a bunch reading.
Just wanted to offer you that the 225 guys say the muffs only work on those outboards IF the water pressure in the supply hose is high enough.

Also, on some models, there are additional holes that need to be taped closed for muffs to work properly.

Muffs really need to fit perfectly on most outboards and I have put poorly fitting ones on as well as putting well fitting ones on carelessly in a hurry only to get poor results.

Not sure if any of the above is relevant to what's happening with yours but just listing some things to consider.

I made myself a trashcan test tank complete with hose connector at the top as well as a drain valve with hose at the bottom and haven't reached/searched for the muffs in a long time.

If you're in a situation to do it, using a tank for flushing while the engine is running gives a thorough and reliable flush if the pump is in good condition and it can give you a realistic indication of how the pump is working. It eliminates the inadequate water pressure thing too.

Good luck and hope you get it sorted out.
 
Thanks for the info. I’ll try the trash can method. My muffs fit pretty well but who knows. I’ll Let you know

Thanks
 
Some tips...

Use a 30 gallon (or larger) plastic trashcan.

You may need to cut an opening in the top side of the can to accommodate tilting the outboard in and out of it. Just cut it smaller at first then try it with no water so you don't go too big and risk having to use another can.

The water depth should be above the cavitation plate by about 5 inches minimum when the outboard is tilted/standing vertically.

I have the adjustable drain valve at the bottom so that I can keep a flow of water coming in and exiting the can. This prevents the water from becoming too hot while running the engine. I have a hose connected to the drain valve so that I can direct the water either to my yard or to the street gutter and away from the building.

When running the engine for any length of time, try to keep the water in the can under 120°f to prevent overheating.

Good luck
 
I switched to a 2X4 galvanized stock tank a while back due to low water pressure at the hose. Subsequently, I turned up the pressure on the PRV, and now the hose and muffs work. The stock tank holds enough water so overheating is not an issue.
 
One morning about a year ago, I heard a faint noise in my master bathroom. Turned out that was first knowledge of a failed copper pipe in my 60+ year old home's foundation.
After some fancy and expensive leak detection equipment was brought in, the "fix" was on!
About 8 holes in two walls later, the leak was stopped, a SINGLE plastic pipe was run through the attic and the "repairs" were complete.
Well, almost....
....everything except the holes in the walls. They don't fix the dry wall they damage.
For right at $6,000.00 American, I got all that PLUS a new water heater AND a new PRV.
While my pipes are obviously old, it was found that the regulator had failed and allowed full supply pressure....something north of 110psi...to probably be a factor in the pipe failure.
So, the moral of my saga is be VERY careful about turning up the pressure::/!
 
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