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Bf225 ignition/kill switch wiring

V

VanW

New member
So I got a couple of used 225's (only installing one) and the seller neglected to send the keys. I don't have any Honda ignitions handy so figured I'd try to splice in a Yamaha one for the time being. I'm using the dual ignition panel for now until I can get a single one.

I got it 90 percent done (I think) but got kind of stuck on the kill switch on the Honda panel. The black and the black/red. So far I'm thinking the black might just go to the black on the Yamaha ignition but not sure where the black/red should go, on the Yamaha switch it has a black and a white that was going to it's kill switch. Maybe the black/red goes to the white one?

Don't see many legible wiring diagrams around.
 
Hi,
I don't know if I am correctly interpreting your question and I have no information on the Yamaha wiring.

But the Honda kill switch wiring is a very simple loop circuit.

When Bl/R is open, ignition is enabled. When Bl/R is grounded, ignition is off.

The Black/R (Bl/R) wire comes from EMS terminal 1 and EMS terminal 2 at the ECM to the IG (run) terminal of the ignition switch.
It is then jumped from there to the kill switch.

The Black (Bl) wire comes from the main ground terminal on the mount case and has several branches.....going to neutral switch, power trim switch, trim angle switch, service check connector and red connector.
It then goes on to provide ground for the panel gauges and lighting.

The single panel wire diagram I have shows a "pigtail" attachment from both Bl and Bl/R that exits the panel and terminate in two bullet connector halfs.

I would gladly share this wiring diagram with you but it has defeated all efforts to pass it on. I don't know why. I'm sure it's a proprietary Thang.

If this wasn't the info you needed, well, at least I tried.

Good luck.
 
This is what I used on the Yamaha side. Oh I guess I can't post pictures. I'm pretty sure both of these kill switches work the same way. So it's likely that the black/red wire goes to the white.

I should get continuity between the black and the black/red with the switch in the "run" position correct? I'm just testing at the panel right now. Don't have any wiring ran to the engine yet.
 
Wasn't logged in lol
 

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The Yami kill switch wiring looks the same as the Honda except it's a white wire and a black wire. There's not enough context in that depiction for me to know which one is the ground.

As to your question:

"I should get continuity between the black and the black/red with the switch in the "run" position correct?"....

The answer is NO!

On both the Yami and the Honda the switch has to be 0pen...ie: no continuity in order to run the engine.

When the switch is closed....Black wire and Black/Red wire connected....
The engine will stop.

Same for the Yami....
White wire and Black wire not connected (switch open) the engine will run.

I hope that makes sense to you.

Good luck.
 
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