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Bf20d choke problem

J

jimsa

New member
2004 motor ,just purchased.
Unable to start with choke pulled.Much easier to start with choke in place and when starts, idle is within rpm to keep motor running.
But ,If choke been pulled during idle,motor dies.
Also at times ,when icreasing slowly the throttle,surges and seems like only 1 cylinder operates before going off.
I need some help here please.
Thank you.
 
Hi jimsa,

These carburetors don't have conventional "butterfly" type chokes. They have a. SE or Service Enrichment valve operated by the choke cable.
I suspect that yours may not be fully closing and that's causing the engine to be too rich.

You may need to remove the cable and the flexible, curved housing it is in and check their condition.

The housing is mostly rubber and plastic and that stuff goes bad. The curved cable guide "boot" that's made of rubber will crack and allow the cable to kink. If that's the case then the cable and housing need to be replaced as a set. See items 11 and 17 in the link.


They call item 11 the "valve" but that's a lie. The valve is actually attached to the end of the cable. It looks like a little silver pellet.

I will tell you now that assembling the cable and boot/housing is not particularly easy. But, if you get impatient and booger up either one, you will have to buy another.

Also, the housing base screws into the top of the carb with plastic threads. Those wear out due to vibration. They are also easily stripped when tightening so you have to be careful there too. If those threads won't hold the housing down firmly, the choke won't work right at all.

I have no love for this "choke valve" set up because of all that. But, once it's fixed, it will work well for a few years.

Good luck.
 
Forgot to say....

Don't try to replace JUST the housing because the cable looks ok. They BOTH should be replaced.

Believe me, I know!

Good luck
 
A couple more things....

If the choke cable is kinked/damaged, it will tend to push itself back out when you close it. Pull it out all the way and then push it back in. The knob should go right up against the bracket and stay there. If it sort of "springs" back 1/8" or more, that's an indication that it's bad and it's always staying open or in choke mode.

Also, it might look like you can a unscrew the housing and cable from the carburetor without removing the carburetor from the engine. BUT....
.... there's not much room to swing that around in that limited space. You might be able to....IF you're careful but I have found it's almost as much trouble as removing the carb to get it off.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
A couple more things....

If the choke cable is kinked/damaged, it will tend to push itself back out when you close it. Pull it out all the way and then push it back in. The knob should go right up against the bracket and stay there. If it sort of "springs" back 1/8" or more, that's an indication that it's bad and it's always staying open or in choke mode.

Also, it might look like you can a unscrew the housing and cable from the carburetor without removing the carburetor from the engine. BUT....
.... there's not much room to swing that around in that limited space. You might be able to....IF you're careful but I have found it's almost as much trouble as removing the carb to get it off.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks again,i appreciate
 
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