HelloAll. I am new to outboards and could usea little help. Apologies in advance fora long post.
Ihave twin outboard BF135s that have about 1700 digits in the serial number separatingthe two that happens to fall between a control panel part change. The engine in question (SN BARJ13011946) currentlyhas the incorrect control panel (part# 32340-ZW5-506(2LED)) versus the control panel it should have (part# 06323-ZZ5-764 (4LED)). The previous owner battled an overheatingissue while he owned it as well. He put4 new temp sensor, new thermostats, and a new water pump. I can’t remember if he changed the reliefvalve or not but from my inspection of it appeared to be relatively new. He also did a flush of the system with achemical designed to clean cooling systems.
Questions: 1. Does having the incorrect control panelmatter? Ie. Can this causefalse high temp alarms? It appears toonly be lights that receive their signal from the ECU, however, I cannotconfirm this from the service manual. 2. Does the control panel send a signal back tothe ECU that would cause this high temp alarm and for the engine to go intolimp mode?
3. The control panel appears to be optionalequipment; can I disconnect the control panel lamp assembly to sea trial the boatin order to verify this is the fault creating these symptoms?
Thisis the symptoms and troubleshooting I have done so far.
Theengine runs fine and does not have an overtemp alarm at below 75% or so throttle. Above 75% throttle the engine will run finefor a couple of minutes and then the overtemp alarm will sound, the engine willretard to 1800 RPMs until it “cools down” and then it will run fine again. I have checked the temperature of the head,block, exhaust manifold, and water discharge from the thermostat which allseemed to be within reasonable parameters to me (Block 150, head 140, exhaustmanifold hottest point 168, and the cooling water discharge after thethermostats was 120). I have tested all4 ECT sensors and they all have the same resistance measurements +-5% (2K ohmsat room temp to around 500 ohms at 170 degrees) from 70 degrees to 170 degrees. The thermostats were tested and opened morethan 3mm at the appropriate temperatures. The pressure valve was not stuck open or closed; it seemed to operatefreely. The seat was in good shape andthe there was little corrosion. The waterinlet vents had no apparent foreign matter or marine life clogging them. The water pump is pumping adequate water at areasonable pressure (I didn’t hook up a pressure gauge but would guess 2-6 PSIfrom idle to 1200 RPMs, a good stream coming out). I cleaned the thermostats and pressure reliefvalve, reinstalled and took the boat out on a sea trial with the temp gun. There was no change; the overtemp alarmsounded within similar timeframes as before above 75% throttle.
Isthere anything I missed as far as troubleshooting goes that anyone canrecommend? I would like to verifyoperation of the control panel before buying another one I may not need. Another step I have considered is testing thewires to see if there is a problem there, however, with the consistency of recreatingthe when the alarm sounds I tend to lean away from a wiring problem that onlymanifests when at high speeds. Whentrolling open ocean the ride is rougher than when I was testing in the lagoonthat was flat water. It is not out ofthe realm of possibility though. Thetime that can be wasted looking for an intermittent fault in a wire is a deterrenttoo.
Thanksin advance for any recommendations.
Ihave twin outboard BF135s that have about 1700 digits in the serial number separatingthe two that happens to fall between a control panel part change. The engine in question (SN BARJ13011946) currentlyhas the incorrect control panel (part# 32340-ZW5-506(2LED)) versus the control panel it should have (part# 06323-ZZ5-764 (4LED)). The previous owner battled an overheatingissue while he owned it as well. He put4 new temp sensor, new thermostats, and a new water pump. I can’t remember if he changed the reliefvalve or not but from my inspection of it appeared to be relatively new. He also did a flush of the system with achemical designed to clean cooling systems.
Questions: 1. Does having the incorrect control panelmatter? Ie. Can this causefalse high temp alarms? It appears toonly be lights that receive their signal from the ECU, however, I cannotconfirm this from the service manual. 2. Does the control panel send a signal back tothe ECU that would cause this high temp alarm and for the engine to go intolimp mode?
3. The control panel appears to be optionalequipment; can I disconnect the control panel lamp assembly to sea trial the boatin order to verify this is the fault creating these symptoms?
Thisis the symptoms and troubleshooting I have done so far.
Theengine runs fine and does not have an overtemp alarm at below 75% or so throttle. Above 75% throttle the engine will run finefor a couple of minutes and then the overtemp alarm will sound, the engine willretard to 1800 RPMs until it “cools down” and then it will run fine again. I have checked the temperature of the head,block, exhaust manifold, and water discharge from the thermostat which allseemed to be within reasonable parameters to me (Block 150, head 140, exhaustmanifold hottest point 168, and the cooling water discharge after thethermostats was 120). I have tested all4 ECT sensors and they all have the same resistance measurements +-5% (2K ohmsat room temp to around 500 ohms at 170 degrees) from 70 degrees to 170 degrees. The thermostats were tested and opened morethan 3mm at the appropriate temperatures. The pressure valve was not stuck open or closed; it seemed to operatefreely. The seat was in good shape andthe there was little corrosion. The waterinlet vents had no apparent foreign matter or marine life clogging them. The water pump is pumping adequate water at areasonable pressure (I didn’t hook up a pressure gauge but would guess 2-6 PSIfrom idle to 1200 RPMs, a good stream coming out). I cleaned the thermostats and pressure reliefvalve, reinstalled and took the boat out on a sea trial with the temp gun. There was no change; the overtemp alarmsounded within similar timeframes as before above 75% throttle.
Isthere anything I missed as far as troubleshooting goes that anyone canrecommend? I would like to verifyoperation of the control panel before buying another one I may not need. Another step I have considered is testing thewires to see if there is a problem there, however, with the consistency of recreatingthe when the alarm sounds I tend to lean away from a wiring problem that onlymanifests when at high speeds. Whentrolling open ocean the ride is rougher than when I was testing in the lagoonthat was flat water. It is not out ofthe realm of possibility though. Thetime that can be wasted looking for an intermittent fault in a wire is a deterrenttoo.
Thanksin advance for any recommendations.