Logo
FULL SITE MENU

BF130 trouble codes, indicator lights, alarms

M

myrtlebeach

New member
I have been studying the factory service manual and cannot find the answer to my problem. I am hoping someone here can help. I have a 2001 BF130. Recently purchased and never been fired up yet. I have wired it up and started running diagnostics. Changed plugs, oil, filter. Checked compression etc. When I try to start it, wont fire. Checked plug wires with timing light, OK, get spark. Pull plugs, no gas getting to cylinders. OK, install new HP fuel pump. Check, comes on for two seconds as it should. Check pressure in lines. good. Injectors aren't firing. OK. Computer problem. Short connector to check MIL functions. MIL light comes on and does not blink. OK, bad computer. Get new one installed. Run MIL check again. MIL light comes on and stays on but, this time it is accompanied by a constant alarm which is new. So my question is: what does it mean if the computer shorting wire is inserted, turn switch on, all 4 lights come on for 2 seconds, fuel pump runs 2 seconds, temp and green oil light go out, ALT and MIL light stay lit. do not get 2 beeps but instead have constant alarm? Any help greatly appreciated.
 
MIL light should not stay on. Usually that is a problem with the programmed fuel injection system from the computer, or a sensor. I defer to those on this forum who know the 130's better than I do.
 
The mil light being on could mean all is ok (codes cleared) or faulty ECM. If you just put on a new ECM, it should be ok.

No immediate answer for the constant alarm. Slammed with boaters wanting their boats for the holiday. Just doing this during my lunch break.

I will be thinking about this and try to give you some other thoughts.

Try clearing the codes, checking all connections to sensors for corrosion, clean and reseat.

Mike
 
I have 4 ECM's. All used. All have same symptoms, constant MIL light when shorted, no fuel getting to cylinders. One exhibits constant alarm when shorted. 3 others no alarm. Don't know how to check if injectors are getting signal from ECM to squirt but surely they aren't, cylinders are dry. Have cleared codes on all ECMs. Have spare engine if I need to "borrow" sensors. Gut tells me bad wiring somewhere. Will check and clean grounds. Are all the grounds located on front side of block under the ECM? Any other ideas appreciated. I could buy new ECM for $450, BUT HATE TO THROW MONEY IF PROBLEM IS SOMEWHERE ELSE (seems highly unlikely that 4 ECMs could be bad, but I've seen stranger things)
 
Last edited:
Okay, let's start at the top. I'm not that familiar with the 130 - I have a 225. But there are a lot of the same systems.

Simple things first...

1. Are you sure that the kill switch is operating correctly? If not, simply disconnect it for the time being.
2. Make sure you have a fully charged battery, and make sure you are getting full 12 V power to the ECM.
3. Are you shunting the service connector correctly? If it is the same as my 225, then it is lime green/white shunted to black. (Something in my foggy memory tells me that the 130 only has two pins in the service connector. If so it is unlikely you are not shunting them correctly.)
4. On my engine, the main ground wire to the ECM is black. Confirm from wiring diagram in the back of your shop manual. Confirm that there is a good ground there.
5. Where did you check the fuel pressure? If you have good fuel pressure to the rail, and no fuel in any of the cylinders, then the wiring problem must be between the injectors and the ECM. Each injector has it's own circuit to the ECM. I agree that it is highly unlikely that you have four bad ECM's, and that they all have the same fault. So, my suspicion is that you have a bad ground at the ECM, OR the kill circuit is activated.
 
Check all the stuff the Chawkman is referring to.

The wiring harness grounds are located on the lower port side of the front of the powerhead. There are two, if I remember correctly.

One way to check to see if the injectors are getting any ground pulses...

First make sure that the injectors have 12v (to ground) on one of the leads when the key switch is turned on.

The ECM pulses grounds to the other side of the injectors. If you have the old analog type meter, where you can see the needle move, connect it across the contacts of the injectors. When you crank the engine, you should see the meter needle pulse. Make sure it is set at on at least 12v scale...but not too high or you may not see the needle move.

I would do your testing with one of the ECM's that do not give you a constant alarm.

Mike
 
Thanks chawk_man and hondadude, I appreciate your help in trying to sort this thing out. The battery is strong, fully charged. Not sure about kill switch. Its all new wiring I installed. New Honda key indicator 4 light panel, new main wire harness from switch to engine, new Honda throttle control wired into those two. The key panel has 2 kill switch connectors that look like they should be connected together and a third that hooks to the wire harness along with the other two connectors that go to the ECM. The wiring diagrams show that it is probably a jumper from the switch to the lights to the main harness. I have tried connecting them in various configurations but I cant tell what is right. Pretty sure I have it correct. What is the best way to tell if the kill switch is hooked up right? By the way, I can and have used it to clear the codes in the ECMs by pushing - releasing 5 times as manual shows. Does the kill switch interfere with fuel system, the ignition system or both? The 130 can only be shunted one way - only 2 wires. Fuel pressure was checked at the release valve, top of vapor canister. I suppose it could be clogged in the line to the injectors, but problem I'm sure is electrical. Will pull fuel rail just to make sure. I'll try checking fuel injector pulses and grounds tomorrow. Thanks again.
 
Last edited:
Before you pull the injectors, be sure that they are getting any electrical pulses. If you do not have the meter that I described previously, try a test light. It may not light very bright, but you may at least see something. I am not exactly sure it will work....but since the ECM is giving it a ground and the other end is connected to 12v, it should light briefly.

Check again to be sure they are getting 12v to them when the key switch is turned to on.

You said that you measured fuel pressure at the top of the vapor canister.....is your fuel pump external or inside the vapor separator? There was a change in design early in the life of the 130 and all were supposed to be changed to a new vapor separator with the high pressure pump inside.

To measure fuel pressure on the old style, there is a bolt at the bottom of the fuel rail that you unscrew and insert a fuel gauge. On the new version, there is a bolt on the cap of the high pressure filter.

As for the kill switch, it will be wired in parallel with the stop leads on the key switch. It is probably fine...since you used it to clear codes and you said in your first post that you had spark at the plug wires. If the safety landyard is pulled, then there would be no spark.

Mike
 
OK guys, Got it fired up. Yahoo! Thanks. I'm still not sure what it was but I cleaned and tightened the grounds, pulled the fuel rail and injectors, cleaned everething up and reinstalled. Fired right up.

Second problem. ECM side of block, rear, top, where the water flush pipe connects to block. Part #19278-ZW1-000ZA SPACER. mine has a hole with a plastic fitting and a tube that has been cut off. This does not show up in any of my literature. What is this fitting for and where is the cut tube suppose to go? Water just powers out of this fitting when running.

You guys are the best. Thanks for holding my hand. I might even get in the water this year.
 
Glad things are working....so far.....

The fitting, you mentioned, is part of the assembly to allow you to backflush the motor (one way into the motor). http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard%20Engine/2001/BF130A1%20LA%20/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20COVER/parts.html Parts 8, 9 and 10 work together as a relief valve to keep water from coming out....and it sounds like it is water is coming out. The hose then goes to the water inlet....#8 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2001/BF130A1 LA /LOWER CASE/parts.html.

You might be able to clean off the relief valve, depending on how bad it is and how corroded it is inside.

Worst case, figure out some way to plug that hose, otherwise the engine could overheat.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike. I realize the flush hose and relief valve are for fresh water flushing of the motor. but my part #7, the spacer, has a threaded hole with a plastic tube that is not shown in any of the diagrams. I was wondering if this was one of the changes made with the new head assembly. Still not sure where this tube was suppose to run to. I'm sure I can thread a bolt to close it up, just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something stupid.
 
Back
Top