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BF130: Fuel Delivery - Plus ACG Light and MAP & ECT Sensor Errors

Old No7

Contributing Member
Following the same spring ritual as in prior years, my BF130 ran fine on muffs in the yard after replacing the plugs (new every season), and the fuel/water separator filter, engine fuel filter, VST vent filter (all these replaced every season). Then it ran fine for only 5 minutes at the dock when launching yesterday, but then she faltered and stopped – sounding just like it was running out of fuel.

It would not restart – although she coughed a couple of times and almost caught. The marina owner tried it with a smaller tank of gas (using my Honda fitting) but she would not start on his tank either. He suspected the motor ran off what remained in the VST Tank and that the float was stuck and the brain thought the VST was full even though it was empty.

See my other post which I created just before this one; so as to rule out any issues (or future problems) from a collapsed fuel line, I replaced the lines from the tank to the motor. Even though it didn’t start up when using the marina guy’s tank, when I saw how the liner had collapsed inside the gray fuel line, I figured it would be a wise idea to replace the lines and make those a non-issue for now and future years.

Today, I removed the VST and at first, I could not hear the float move when it was tipped up or down, or rolled over & over. I sprayed some Gumout into it and let it soak several times, and covered all fuel ports and shook it around. After that, I could hear the float move when the VST was shook.

But she won’t start – even though I did confirm spark on plugs 1 &4, as described in the manual. It sounds like there is no fuel getting into the VST, through the high-pressure fuel pump and out to the rails. But I did confirm that the line up to the low—pressure fuel pump has fuel in it, and squeezing the bulb will show fuel at that point.

On top of all this:
* The ACG Light is on, indicating a faulty charging system, but the battery was freshly charged before trying to restart (while working on the VST).
* I remembered a tip from Hondadude (I think it was) and shorted the red plug to check for MIL codes and I got 2 of them:
…..... 3 blinks = MAP Sensor
…..... 6 blinks = ECM Sensor

I don’t understand how what started as a low/no fuel problem has now before a problem with the charging system, or those 2 sensors?

Or maybe one of those errors or codes helped to create the fuel issue? I have not checked the fuel pressures at either low- or high-pressure pumps, and I’m not sure I have the tools to do so, but I’d appreciate any input to whether those errors lights and codes could have anything to do with the fact the outboard is not getting any fuel. Thanks!

Old No7

ACG Error
iO3KJGt.jpg


MIL Code Errors
hzIGb2W.jpg


FYI: Next I will “reply to my own posting” with what I found under the belt cover -- when ironically, following the troubleshooting for the low-pressure fuel pump, as it said to remove the cover and check for belt tension -- and you should see what I found!
 
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OK, here is what I found under the belt cover, when ironically, following the troubleshooting for the low-pressure fuel pump, as it said to remove the cover and check for belt tension. Due to the ACG Light being on, I figured I’d better check the belts anyhow…

178fEpv.jpg


Effin mice! I’ve had wires under the dash chewed before, but this is crazy! I have no idea if this is related to the fuel issue or ACG error, but it’s not good! And as motors need fuel, spark AND air, maybe this has had an impact on the motor.

Then take a look at the alternator – I disconnected the battery and used a plastic gun-cleaning pick to remove tons of mouse fur from the vents where the windings are visible. What’s interesting, is there was “No urine smell” under the belt cover or around the nest, like we’d typically find in other mouse nests around the shed.

7G7hStx.jpg


I sure hope I haven’t cooked the alternator due to this mess. Oh, and I also pulled this from around one of the shafts, under a pulley.

H7K0QrM.jpg


We now return to the original posting – Can anyone help with the fuel delivery and the ACG and MIL sensor errors I’m getting?

Old No7
 
Holy Rats Nest Batman! That looks AWFUL!!!
I don't know what that last picture is showing but it looks really bad and possibly very expensive in nature!!

SHEESH! Gives me the WILLIES!
 
I was trying to get a neighbors Honda generator running, 2 mice ran out of it. Big stinky mess and a wire chewed through.

Spray some gas or some starter fluid into the intake while cranking to see if the issue is a lack of fuel or electrical. It should run for short time if electrical is ok.

With that mess around and in the alternator, a good chance a wire was chewed and/or a bunch of crud is inside the alternator?
 
My co-worker down in Texas asked about my weekend, so I shared with him my sob story about the motor and the images of the nest & mess I found...

He says it was small birds!

He said it happened to his Honda once, and he ID'd the mess found around the shaft as a bird skeleton (pointing out the feet and spine) -- and he says that helps to explain "why there was no mouse urine smell", as birds don't poop where they live.

So now I will add a motor cowling cover for sure.

Any thoughts on the main concerns -- the fuel issues, ACG Light and MAP & ECT Sensor errors?

Old No7
 
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Oh, that's GREAT actually! Birds don't chew like rats and mice. I thoughtt that looked like feather down in there. Also a relief about the last picture that looked so bad! I thought it might be a picked apart coil winding or maybe a cable. I didn't see bird feet at all.

But the birds "futzing" around in there may have caused some of your issues. I don't know if bird turds are conductive or not. They don't chew but they pull on things when looking for nesting material.

My first guess about the light and the codes is that they may have pulled apart a connector or pulled wires out of a connector.

The codes for the MAP semsor and ECT sensors indicate loss of connectivity or high resistance so checking the connectors and associated wiring might reveal something.

I don't know but if some alternator wiring, fuel pump wiring and those two sensors share a plug in connector (at ECM maybe?) that would be a suspect area. Hopefully you have the wiring diagram to help suss that out.

Good luck.
 
Oh, that's GREAT actually! Birds don't chew like rats and mice.....

Thanks, I agree -- and they don't pee & poop where they live either! (They don't have bladders -- from what I've read, nothing is "stored" too long, everything goes right through and out to lessen the flying load.)


Oh, that's GREAT actually! Birds don't chew like rats and mice.....

True, I've had a fuel line half eaten through by the effin' mice before.


My first guess about the light and the codes is that they may have pulled apart a connector or pulled wires out of a connector.

The codes for the MAP sensor and ECT sensors indicate loss of connectivity or high resistance so checking the connectors and associated wiring might reveal something.

I don't know but if some alternator wiring, fuel pump wiring and those two sensors share a plug in connector (at ECM maybe?) that would be a suspect area. Hopefully you have the wiring diagram to help suss that out.

Good luck.

Yes, I do have the Helm Manual and a Voltage Meter. To start, I think I'll pull apart every connector -- then pull on the wires of each, and then I'll have to really look closely at every mm of wiring under the cowling, but especially in the area around the alternator.

For the fuel issue, I know I have fuel in the LP filter, and new lines back to the tank. I'll plan to disconnect the safety lanyard and run the hose from the output of the LP fuel pump to a container -- crank it over a little (on muffs, so the impeller stays wet) and see if that's pumping fuel. If so, then I'll move on to the VST. I might have to drill and grind off those 6 Phillips screws on top, as I could not get them to budge the other day -- maybe I can mount it on my drill press and use pressure from the quill to help keep the bit in the screw head. I hear the float moving -- but the needle could be gunked up. If all is well there, I can hear the HP fuel pump cycling, I may have to follow hondadude's info on relieving air pressure at the Schrader valve at the rail -- that's "if" I can get fuel to flow past the VST to the injectors.

I will keep the forum posted.

Old No7
 
I agree with your plan of checking all the connections and doing some "tug n wiggle" testing. If you unplug something hit the connectors with a good quality electrical contact cleaner like DeOxit before plugging back in.

You say you have spark so that's good. And you say that you hear the hp fuel pump running. That's also a good sign. You say you have a fuel rail schrader. If you crank her a bit with the fuel all hooked up you should be able to simply press the schrader valve to see if fuel squirts out. Not scientific I know but a quick and dirty way to see if the injectors are being fed. All the usual safety precautions apply for squirting fuel in the engine compartment.

If fuel is present there, you might want to pull a plug or two to see if the end is wet. If not, there are inexpensive noid lights available to see if the computer is firing the injectors.
 
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Also wondering if you've ever cleaned the IAC (IAB) valve and or it's screen. All that feather down floating around in there could have plugged it up.

I was also reading that the ECM uses the alternator field current for making adjustments to the IAC. I doubt that would cause your no start but it's something to think about. If I found an easy way to simply unplug the alternator to see if she'll start I would try that too.
 
Also wondering if you've ever cleaned the IAC (IAB) valve and or it's screen. All that feather down floating around in there could have plugged it up.

I just posted info and an image about cleaning the EAC, Electronic Air Control valve -- I think we're talking about the same thing. Yes, it was rather sooty (blackened) but as the image on that other posting shows, it cleaned up well.


I was also reading that the ECM uses the alternator field current for making adjustments to the IAC. I doubt that would cause your no start but it's something to think about. If I found an easy way to simply unplug the alternator to see if she'll start I would try that too.

I'll check on that too -- thanks for the ideas!

Old No7
 
Success!!! FIXED the fuel issue -- see my posting about the new VST on the "Tips on How to Prime a New VST..." posting.

For the ACG light, and the MAP & ECT sensor errors, I rechecked all fuses, then I unplugged EVERY electrical connection on the motor, checked all the wires at each side of the plug, and then inserted & withdrew them (without locking them in) a few times each, to get the pins to rub in their sockets a little -- then I gave them a good tight snap shut. I also removed the breather box to be sure the bottom vents of the alternator were clean of all that nesting material.

After she started up -- Voila, no errors.

Glad to have this fixed -- it's fishing/boating season!!

Old No7
 
Well...
....YAY!

It's great to hear (read, actually) about success here!

Us old automotive techs call what you were doing a "pin and socket drag test". Works in a lot of cases and it appears that it's worked for you.

WAY TO GO!
 
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