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Bass Boat Engine Height.

kevinj

Advanced Contributor
I'm not really a performance junkie, but I want to be sure my boat is setup properly. There are times on smooth water when the boat feels stuck down but when there's a little chop it gets free and I can feel it gliding on the pad.

Here's my set up:
1997 Ranger 461vs
1996 Evinrude Intruder 150 (E150ELDGB) with an Evinrude lightning gear case.
13 1/4 X 25, 4 Blade SS prop

Measurements:
Hull has a built-in setback of 19".
The engine is currently in the lowest set of mounting holes (max height) on the transom bracket.
Prop shaft measures 5-1/2" below the lowest point on the hull.
Antiventilation Plate measures 3-1/2" above the lowest point on the hull.

Performance:
I can usually get a max 5,000 RPM and about 50 MPH @ WOT. Holeshot is decent, but I don't have a great idea for comparison and I've never used a stopwatch for time-to-plane. Water pressure is usually about 18 PSI or higher when on-plane.

I'm a little lost when it comes to bass boats so I'd like to hear some guidance. Previously Faztbullet warned me the Lightning gear case might not perform well on hulls designed for slower speeds so it is possible my issue is the gear case. But until I'm certain I'm at the right height I won't know for sure what the issue might be. I've searched quite a bit and it seems a common setup is having the prop shaft 3-1/2" below the pad. If that's the case my engine is 2" too low.

I'd like to hear opinions on what the correct prop-shaft to hull difference should be. At this point if I want to raise the engine any more I'd have to install a jack plate. I don't think I want to bother with the cost of a hydraulic jack plate. I know there are situations where they can be nice, but most likely I would a manual jack plate like the one below to set the engine at the proper height then leave it alone.

https://www.vancemfg.com/product-p/jpl4400.htm

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Raise it at least 1 hole possibly 2 from..problem from going higher is prop as need a min 14 dia.
I didn't think about the prop diameter. Thanks for the heads up. The problem is I already have the engine at the highest mounting point so it sounds like I'll have to go with a jack plate.

I've been looking at plates and most places are pretty proud of them. The 4" setback Bob's Machine VerseJack and TH Marine manual plates seem to be in the $400-$500 range with the hydraulic plates above $1,000. I found one place called Vance Manufacturing in TN that sells a 4" setback manual adjust plate for $200. https://www.vancemfg.com/product-p/jpl4400.htm This has me really curious why the Bob's and TH plates are twice the cost of the Vance Mfg? :confused: Are they really that much better or do they just have a bigger following? I can see the advantages of hydraulic plates but I kind of think I'd be okay with getting it set and leaving it alone. But, is that being short sighted and one day I'll want hydraulic?? So many choices, so little money :(

The nice thing about the Bob's Versa-Jack is that if I want this to be a power jack plate I would only have to by the power upgrade kit and install it. With the others I don't think they have the upgrade option.

I talked to my local shop yesterday and he confirmed that the center of the prop shaft should be about 3" to 3.5" below the pad. He mentioned he had a used 10" hydraulic jack plate but I tend to think that might be too much for my boat because of the built-in setback. I was only thinking of getting a 4" plate just for the height adjustment. If I were to get that 10" I worry that's sticking the engine way too far back. The picture below is not my boat, but it's the exact hull.
461vs.JPG
 
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