Logo
FULL SITE MENU

at my wits end................

C

Charger25

Member
Well, I've been working putting together a 25 Evinrude for my 16 footer. What appears to be a 91 power head attached to a 92 to 94 body.
Its running but sputters, spits and feels like like I'm dragging an anchor. I thought it might be the timing but after researching it seems that thats set at the factory and never needs to be adjusted.
When I swapped the head over I did it as a complete unit, meaning that all the electronics, carb, cables were swapped with it.
To trouble shoot , what I have done is
1) cleaned every electrical contact , added dielectrical grease
2) made sure all grounds were good
3) pulled fly wheel and checked key and cleaned under it
4) changed plugs
5) swapped out both coils and plug wires (with some that I had as spares)
6) swapped out carbs ( seemed to run a bit richer, more smoke but still sputtered)
7) Took bowl off original carb, soaked it in sea foam and blew it out with carb cleaner. have not done a total re-build on it yet.
8) compression is 110 on top and 108 on bottom cylinder
9) no leaks or clogs in fuel lines
10) fresh 98 oct gas mixed 30 to 1 with 8 ozs. of sea foam added
11) ran it at night to look for any arcing , didn't see any.

Is there anything I might have missed?
 
If it has the heat senser in the cylinder head , what does an ohmeter show from the wire to ground ???---------How big a gap will the spark jump on each cylinder ??
 
It has a heat sensor but it was disconnected by previous owner and he did run it like that. Shows 0 ohms
Spark will jump 1/2 inch and will absolutely knock the crap outta ya if you're bare foot & standing on wet grass. color of spark white at 1/2 in. blue if gap is less
one set of plugs gapped at 35 the other at 45 , no differnece
 
Last edited:
Start with temp with running engine. Is thermostat working and engine temp up? (140-150F)
Loosen carb roller screw, let engine run at lowest possible rpm and adjust the mix screw until engine has the highest rpm (constant timing advance), then back off screw 1/2.
Adjust roller so it hits the cam at the mark or just between if you have two marks on the cam.
Put engine in forward, give full throttle.(engine not running)
Adjust stopper on horizontal link so carb is 99.9% open.
Back to neutral.
Start engine and test. (At sea or in barrel, but NOT at muffs!!!!!!!!)
If still a problem, hook up a timing light.
Make a mark on flywheel when cyl #2 is at TDC.
Start the engine with timing light hooked to #1.
Marks should be visible for #1, but not the one made for #2. Move pick-up to cyl 2, and re-check. Only #2 should be visible, not #1.
If both are visible at any cyl, change powerpack.
 
Not running a T-stat in this one at the moment, trying to flush all the crud out of the water passages. Running 30:1 mix just because I've usually run it a little rich.
When I swapped out carbs, I didn't use a new gasket. I do have a couple of rebuild kits on order though. I'll sync the carb and do the timing mark test in the mean time . Thanks Fellas !
 
Without T-stat and correct temp, you will never get it to run right! You want to get the cooling channels cleaned out, remove the head and deflectors - clean out-install new deflectors and T-stat!!
 
Back
Top