Another question for jgmo and the guys about the BF100 shift shaft

[NaymzJaymz]

Hello again guys. I've been following jgmo's advice about disconnecting the shift shaft on my Honda BF100('82) so I can remove the gearbox for an impeller change. Because of my inexperience, I'm a bit worried about trying to unscrew the shift linkage connector from the top of the shift shaft with the shifting mechanism in the way. As jgmo said, it is a tight sqeeze! The connector will probably come off just by pushing it around with the head of a screwdriver, but how the heck will I get it back on? How can I even begin to get it to start threading back on? The shift shaft is in the lowest position it can go with the connecto still on. It seems it would be better for me to remove the shift lever assembly, but when I unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the horizontal bar in place, the bar will not pull out, even though the whole assembly is now so loose (including the shaft)that it wiggles and moves easily in my fingers. What is holding the shift lever in place now? It don't want to damage it by hitting it. I also wasn't expecting to have to unbolt what looks like some sort of cube shape heat riser of sorts in order to get out the pin with the tiny cotter key that holds the shift shaft connector to the shift linkage. What is this thing for? Should I ever mess with unbolting the shift linkage tensioner, or is that taboo? It seems like this step will be the hardest part of this project once I get past it. Any help, as always will be greatly appreciated! ---James

 

[racerone]

The heatsink thingy ( rectifier ) must be removed to take the pin out easily.-----------See the screws that hold the lower unit on ------------Now look higher up for another set of bolts.------------------Remove front mount and remove those screws.--------------The whole works will come down and the shift rod adapter can be measured and removed / unscrewed.----------------Then remove the lower unit.-------------------After you do it this way you will say ------" that was easy "

 

[william_m]

I used to do this to 14 motors every fall. All that is good advice. But if I got a real sticky one- 2 nuts and the carb was out of the way. then there was room to burn. If you drop the cross pin or cotter- no problem- it will follow the shaft all the way to the floor. Don't forget to count the rotations of the coupler as you remove it. And don't put every thing back together till you get the shift handle to agree with the lower unit.

 

[jgmo]

william_m makes a good point. I always do things the hard way so try his way. To answer your shift shaft question, that bushing that it goes through on the shell of the oil case is what's holding that up.

I can't believe how tight they can grip the shaft and keep you from pulling it out or pushing it in and yet easily allow the shaft to rotate for shifting gears. My first one had me scratching my head too. I use a hammer and drift to knock 'em out but BE CAREFUL if you do decide to go that way because those cast aluminum oil cases are very brittle and it doesn't take much force to crack one. Don't ask me how I know.