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Another BF225 Thread

ByrdmanFL

Contributing Member
First of all, thanks for all the info here, it has helped me out a bunch!

I have the service manual, and I am slowly going through my fuel system. I have a Worldcat 266 with 2 2003 BF225's. About two weeks ago, I was out fishing and the stbd motor starts to not want to climb above 4000 RPM's unless I trim it up then it jumps up. From what I read here, it seems to be a fuel issue.

I replaced both fuel filters, and dumped the water separator on the motor and no water in the bowl. I also replaced my inline fuel filters. Still doing it, so tonight I removed the VST to clean it. Could not get the screws out, so a buddy that owns a auto repair shop says he will get them out tomorrow. I had to remove it because the drain screw is rusted solid. Also, the diaphram on the bottom of the intake manifold will hold if I plunge it, so it seems to be working fine.

First, I assume I'm on the right track and the next steps are to check for crud in the VST, flat valve stem, HP screen on the bottom, and HP pump. Let me know if I am missing anything.

Also, the throttle body has a bunch of crud in it as well. What is the best way to clean it? I might as well do it while I'm here.

Anyway, thanks again for all the info from the other threads, and feel free to make suggestions.

ByrdmanFL
 
Sounds like you are on the right track.

Carb cleaner should clean up the throttle body. If not, try brake cleaner.

Here is a total list of all the filters:

• Low pressure fuel filter 16901-ZY3-003

• High pressure fuel filter screen 16911 ZY3-010. Item 34 at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...04/BF225A4 XA/VAPOR SEPARATOR ASSY/parts.html

• Fuel Pump Filter 16911-759-003 (over top of VST)

• Suspension strainer 16915-ZW5-000 (over top of fuel pump filter) See items 5 & 6 at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2005/BF200A5 XCA/PIPING/parts.html

• Fuel Pump Insulator 16718-ZY6-013 (inside the fuel pump housing). See item 29 at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...04/BF225A4 XA/VAPOR SEPARATOR ASSY/parts.html

• Fuel filter mesh 16614-P5G-003 (on fuel rail). See item 4 at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...er/BF225AK0 XCA/FUEL PIPE INJECTOR/parts.html
 
Got the VST apart and everything looked clean inside. The baffle above the float tank was not attached anymore, and the gasket around the VST tank had corrosion built up on it in one corner. Not sure if any of that would cause it to be fuel starved, but I'll order all new gaskets, filters, and screws and put it back together and see.

Thanks!!
ByrdmanFL
 
While apart, make sure that the opening that the float pin goes into is completely open - spray carb cleaner through it in both directions. Check the float valve and float very carefully and make sure the float pin seals in the seat. Make sure that the opening for draining the VST is completely open and the the cut off screw is smooth in and out.
 
While apart, make sure that the opening that the float pin goes into is completely open - spray carb cleaner through it in both directions. Check the float valve and float very carefully and make sure the float pin seals in the seat. Make sure that the opening for draining the VST is completely open and the the cut off screw is smooth in and out.

The float pin is working and the end of it is still a triangle, so that seem good. Unfortunately, the drain screw is not coming out, but I'll have everything clean before re-assemble and it will just have to stay in for now. When the fuel pump goes out, I'll order the whole fuel pump assembly. If you have to buy the pump and the pump housing, that is about $350 and the whole assembly is only a few hundred more.

Thanks for all the help!! I'll let you know how everything goes when I get the parts in and put it back together.
 
It's pretty important to drain the VST at every 100 hour maintenance. Soak the drain screw in PB Blaster over night and insert a flat blade screw driver and tap it a lot while continuing to use PB Blaster. If that doesn't get it moving, use a smaller (3/8") impact driver.
 
It's pretty important to drain the VST at every 100 hour maintenance. Soak the drain screw in PB Blaster over night and insert a flat blade screw driver and tap it a lot while continuing to use PB Blaster. If that doesn't get it moving, use a smaller (3/8") impact driver.

I hooked up my HP fuel pump to my truck battery and could hear something rattling around inside it. It ran, but something is definitely in there that could be no issue or big issue or last for who knows how long???. Anyway, after pricing out all the parts to rebuild the VST and parts to put everything back together, and include the fuel pump and fuel pump housing because I can't get the valve screw out, I just bit the bullet and bought the whole assembly for a few hundred more. $800 hurts, but I guess from what I have found so far, I would be a lot deeper if I had dropped it off somewhere since I'm doing all the labor. I would rather spend a little more and be sure than 40 miles out and that fuel pump take a dump on me...
 
Replace those screws with allen head screws. I have ZERO fear of not being able to get those screws out since changing them over to allen head years ago.
 
I got mine from my local True Value Hardware store. I brought one of the originals and had them match it with the Allen head version. You’ll need lock washers as well.
 
That's too bad. Those big box stores have have a very limited and lousy selection. Check to see if there is a Fastenal store in your area.

If you can measure them in terms of diameter, pitch, and length, (in millimeters) then you can order them on line. This link gives the measurement specifics.

https://www.fastenermart.com/understanding-metric-fasteners.html

I got mine from my local True Value Hardware store. I brought one of the originals and had them match it with the Allen head version. You’ll need lock washers as well.

Thank you! I have a service manual and it gives the size. I'll try to find it locally, if not I'll get it online.

HD & Lowe's sucks when it comes to stuff like this!
 
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