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Alpha One Water Pump

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edcourter

Member
Hi, last year at draindown I filled the block with antifreeze with small hose (water heater take off) lifted above the engine and filled until the fluid level was in the hose above the engine. This year the antifreeze starts to run out of the leg at the water intake at about 2-3 gallons??
The upper and lower were both changed to SEI last spring, runs good. What's different, and is the pump supposed to drain when out of the water. Thanks 86 350 Mercruiser no exchanger
 
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edcourter said:
Hi, last year at draindown I filled the block with antifreeze with small hose (water heater take off) lifted above the engine and filled until the fluid level was in the hose above the engine.
Due to residual seawater that may reside within the cylinder block and heads, this method is risky!

Keep in mind that just plain ole AIR will not freeze expand and ruin our expensive cast iron components!
And..... the amount of rust protection offered by the antifreeze is negligible!



This year the antifreeze starts to run out of the leg at the water intake at about 2-3 gallons??
No antifreeze should be draining back and past the seawater pump impeller. Something is wrong!
but again..... please see above!

The upper and lower were both changed to SEI last spring, runs good. What's different, and is the pump supposed to drain when out of the water.
Everything below the seawater pump impeller may drain.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, I pull the correct (by merc manual) hoses and drain plugs before I refill the block.

Given that, "nothing should flow down past the impeller" 1)You must have to always crank the engine to empty the passage in the leg?? and,
2)if I have flow down, the out drive needs to be pulled, as it may have frozen ?? I pulled it out in the snow and got heat on the block 45 min later (V8 was still warm). Outdrive could have frozen on the drive home? Pump Housing?
 
I can't remember the port layout on the pump. Is there an impeller stopped position that leaves passage for some water threw the pump backwards?
 
You should just drain the system and leave it at that. Refilling with antifreeze is, pardon my frankness, stupid.
 
NFW. If it's on a trailer/the hard there is absolutely no reason to put coolant in. Mercruiser says not to. They know more about this stuff than I do.
 
edcourter said:
How do you drain the section above the water pump to where the hose passes threw the transom?
Click to expand...
Pull that hose off the t-stat housing. Hook up your antifreeze to the lower and start the engine. The AF will eventually pump out of the hose, push the hose back on the t-stat housing and fill the block and exhaust.
 
Thanks Chris. "Hook up the antifreeze to the lower" Is this, the muffs on the pump intake, with a gravity feed hose to a jug of antifreeze? Ed
 
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o2batsea said:
You should just drain the system and leave it at that. Refilling with antifreeze is, pardon my frankness, stupid.
Click to expand...
I may not say stupid, but I would certainly agree that it is a waste of time and product!


fastjeff said:
Bare iron RUSTS over the winter unless it's submerged in Pink Stuff, so why not fill 'er up?

Jeff
Click to expand...
The amount of rust, that could possibly occur during the lay-up, is paled by comparison to that of the rust that occurs during the normal boating season! Then there is the added risk of the antifreeze becoming diluted by any residual seawater.
Remember, just plain ole AIR will not freeze expand and crack our expensive cast iron components!
Never has, and never will!


o2batsea said:
NFW. If it's on a trailer/the hard there is absolutely no reason to put coolant in. Mercruiser says not to. They know more about this stuff than I do.
Click to expand...
:D

edcourter said:
............................ "Hook up the antifreeze to the lower" Is this, the muffs on the pump intake, with a gravity feed hose to a jug of antifreeze? Ed
Click to expand...

Ed, please take a few minutes and read my write-up on these winterizing kits!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR?ref=pf_vv_at_pdctrvw_srp

Please note that my dislikes and warnings are regarding the use on the Raw Water Cooled Marine Engine!



.
 
Last edited:
edcourter said:
Thanks Chris. "Hook up the antifreeze to the lower" Is this, the muffs on the pump intake, with a gravity feed hose to a jug of antifreeze? Ed
Click to expand...

Yes hook the muffs up to the lower and fire off the engine. As soon as you see pink coming out of the hose you pulled off the t-stat housing, shut the engine down and hook that hose back to the housing. Re-fire the engine until all the antifreeze is out of your jug. 5 gallons should do it, I add salt away.

Always put antifreeze in your engine, no matter what anyone else says. Never leave it empty. Dry engines rust a lot inside.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
Yes hook the muffs up to the lower and fire off the engine. As soon as you see pink coming out of the hose you pulled off the t-stat housing, shut the engine down and hook that hose back to the housing. Re-fire the engine until all the antifreeze is out of your jug. 5 gallons should do it, I add salt away.

Always put antifreeze in your engine, no matter what anyone else says. Never leave it empty. Dry engines rust a lot inside.
Click to expand...

All due respect Chris..... I must disagree with you!

Oxygen is what causes cast iron to rust, of which is iron oxidation.
Water (river/lake/ocean) contains oxygen.
Oxygen alone will oxidize iron, but no where near the degree of which H2O causes iron oxidation.
If we allow the water to drain, leave the ports open, the air alone will cause very little iron oxidation compared to that which occurs during the boating season.


With the logic above, you may as well tell everyone to convert to a Full Closed Cooling System..... of which I would be fully on board with!
However, that is often cost prohibitive for many owners.
 
RicardoMarine said:
..........................

I may not say stupid, but I would certainly agree that it is a waste of time and product!



The amount of rust, that could possibly occur during the lay-up, is paled by comparison to that of the rust that occurs during the normal boating season! Then there is the added risk of the antifreeze becoming diluted by any residual seawater.
Remember, just plain ole AIR will not freeze expand and crack our expensive cast iron components!
Never has, and never will!



:D



Ed, please take a few minutes and read my write-up on these winterizing kits!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR?ref=pf_vv_at_pdctrvw_srp

Please note that my dislikes and warnings are regarding the use on the Raw Water Cooled Marine Engine!



.
Click to expand...

Stupid is as stupid does, enough said

Keep your amateur opinions to yourself.

As I have said stay on the Chinese owned Volvo Penta page where you belong
 
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