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97 225 carb offshore ???

baggedlb7

baggedlb7

New member
Ok new to the boating forums and working on outboards. I have built many motors from wheelers to snowmobiles and autos and also inboard motors. A little history my dad has a 98 SeaRay with a 97 carbed 225 offshore and was having issues with it at the end of last season so he asked for help and after some checking a comp check showed number 1 dead and number 2 at 40psi so it has two dead cylinders. After looking at prices on new motors and power heads we have decided to rebuild the motor.
Now for the questions. After alot of reserch I have found not alot of info with these motors but have found multiple different things as far as parts and what is needed and what is not. I have seen some parts places that show one style of pistons for these motors and some parts places that show multiple styles of pistons for these motors and have also read that it depends on what rods it has.

So can anyone shed some light on whats needed for my motor?
What brands of parts are good and what brands should I stay away from?
What hard parts are required to be changed?
If the roller bearings on the crank side rod ends look ok and are smoth do they need to be replaced?
How far can you go on a bore on these motors so far I have only seen pistons in 15 and 30 over?
Once we have it back together is there a recomended breakin procedure?

So far as of last night we have the block off and disasembled and it looks to me that the two bad cylinders have broken rings and the cylinders are pretty messed up. I will be taking the block down to the machine shop tomorrow to see if it is useable.
SER# 06486696
Thanks for any info and replys.
 
What brands of parts are good and what brands should I stay away from?
Click to expand...
ProMarine, WSM and RedRhino as rated high on my list and least on list is Wiseco and GLM....
What hard parts are required to be changed?
Click to expand...
Crank upper/lower bearings, crank seals,gaskets,carbs kits,impeller,fuel pump diaphrams.....
If the roller bearings on the crank side rod ends look ok and are smoth do they need to be replaced?
Click to expand...
As long as they are not damaged or discolored rod bearing can be reused always replace wrist pin bearings....
How far can you go on a bore on these motors so far I have only seen pistons in 15 and 30 over?
Click to expand...
up to .040 oversize..
Once we have it back together is there a recomended breakin procedure?
yep...

DURING THE FIRST 10 HOURS OF OPERATION, USE 50:1 MIX IN FUEL TANK PLUS OIL INJECTION. ON OIL INJECTED ENGINES, VERIFY THE OIL USAGE FROM THE OIL INJECTION TANK BEFORE DISCONTINUING 50:1 OIL/FUEL MIXTURE IN THE FUEL TANK. IF THE ENGINE DOES NOT HAVE OIL INJECTION OR THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN RENDERED INOPERABLE, THEN USE 25:1 OIL MIX IN THE FUEL TANK.
DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE OUT OF WATER – TRY TO MINIMIZE ALL POSSIBILITIES OF AN INFANT OVERHEAT. “IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO VERIFY THE ENGINE IS REACHING A MINIMUM TEMPERATURE – APPROXIMATELY 130 DEGREES.” THIS CAN BE DONE WITH A TEMPERATURE STICK, TERMPERATURE GUN, OR IF THE ENGINE IS UNCOMFORTABLE TO THE TOUCH.
DURING EARLY BREAK-IN, TAKE TIME TO GUARANTEE ALL ENGINE SYSTEMS ARE PERFORMING PROPERLY INCLUDING TEMPERATURE (MAX & MIN), TIMING, FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM, OILING, AND COOLING SYSTEM. ALSO, LOOK AT SPARK PLUGS EARLY TO DETERMINE ANY POTENTIAL PROBLEMS.
FIRST 10 MINUTES
OPERATE AT 1500 RPM IN GEAR. MOMENTARILY ACCELERATE BELOW 2500 RPM.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
NEXT 30 MINUTES
ACCELERATE TO PLANE AND THROTTLE BACK, WHILE MAINTAINING PLANE. AVOID 3000-4000 RPM RANGE FOR PROLONGED OPERATION. THIS IS WHERE MOST ENGINES ARE LEANEST WITH HIGHEST TIMING.
NEXT 20 MINUTES
WHILE ON PLANE – ACCELERATE TO W.O.T. (WIDE OPEN THROTTLE) IN SHORT SPURTS (30 SECONDS OR LESS). RETURN TO IDLE FREQUENTLY TO ALLOW FOR A COOL DOWN PERIOD. IT IS IMPORTANT TO BUILD HEAT IN THE ENGINE FOR MINIMUM AMOUNTS OF TIME.
NEXT 9 HOURS
OPERATE ENGINE NORMALLY WITH NO EXTENDED TIMES AT W.O.T. – VARY ENGINE SPEEDS AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE DURING THIS PERIOD. DO NOT OPERATE ABOVE MAX RPM RATING OF ENGINE.
 
A quick update and another question. We have the motor back together and will be putting it back on the boat in the next day or two. My concern is I have rebuilt the motor which fixed the bad pistons but I dont think that is going to fix the problem he was having.
The problem he was having at the end of last year was when he would throttle up the boat would start to plane and then the motor would die like somboudy had shut off the key but the thing would sit and idel and troll all day long with no issues. When I started checking stuff this year with it running on a hose it would idel with no issues but if you throttled it up to around 1500 rpm it would run there for about 5-10 sec then shut off again like someone had turned off the key no spittin or anything just die. Sometimes it would fire right back up and sometimes it wouldnt start for a few min.

I checked spark and it was good and I checked fuel and it was getting fuel I even rebuilt the fuel pump. What was weird is when it would not start right back up it was still getting spark and fuel when I would it crank over.
So im thinking its probably a sensor I just dont know were to start looking.
Thanks for any help.
 
Easy w/a digital ohmmeter. Disconnect the plug and connect to the two pins. Move the throttle slowly and watch the reading change in a linear manner.
 
Well after a long time messing with this thing it was found that one of the plugs for a cdm was getting hot and was even smoking out of the end of it one of the times we unpluged it. We had an extra harness on the shelf so we switched it out and the problem went away.
My dads amazed at the power this thing has now. Who knows how long its only been running on 4 cylinders.
Thanks for the help and sugestions guys.
 
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