I have a 95 Johnson 225 Venom J225STLEOB. How do you remove the check valves in the intake manifold (item #12 on the Cylinder & Crankcase diagram PN# 0436385)? The ones behind the reed block.
The manual says to use a small wire to push them out. I have tried pushing them out using electric fence wire from the back of the engine (well actually pulling with a "J" in the wire toward the intake manifold), but I cant get any of the valves to come out. Even broke the tip off my pocket knife trying to pry them out (I knew that what a bad idea, but I was desperate).
Also, does anyone have any experience using an inline check valve to replace the brass recirculation valves (4 out of the 6 were bad the other 2 were questionable)? The recirculation valves are ~$30 a pop. Surely an inline check would do the same thing right??
like this guy: link
A little more info on my adventures incase you have been down this road before.
I am suspecting a lean condition at idle.
I recently bought a '95 225 Johnson Venom and I am in the process of getting to the bottom of a rough idle and off idle bog; runs great at WOT but I have to push the primer to get past the dead spot. Carbs were spitting and it was pretty tough to start and i had to keep a good bit of throttle on the engine to keep it running.
The engine had one 4" piece of the old gray fuel line that been eaten up by ethanol gas. I replaced that piece, went through the other lines, and I was sure that the low speed jet were clogged. The carbs were pretty clean but there were little pieces of the broken down fuel line in the float valves so I didn't order any kits, cleaned everything (well i missed the calibration ports on the intake manifold getting those later) and put them back together.
Also I have checked the compression (~92psi on each a little low i think but they are all close), since then I have replaced the bulb with an BRP bulb, checked the VRO diaphragm (good), cleaned the carbs (kits are on the way), replaced spark plugs (factory spec'd plugs), checked the timing (good), removed wing nuts from the battery, checked the stator output after I found some goo under the stator (good), checked for damaged reeds (good), made the #2 cylinder high speed jet two sizes bigger for cooling, performed link and sync (found a missing screw on the port butterflies also not my smoking gun), checked the temperature (both sides getting sufficiently hot),and checked the interrupt switch (actually not working at all when i put it in gear).
The motor shows no response to idle screw adjustment when in the water or on the hose after I cleaned the carbs and replaced the gray fuel line. Still runs good at WOT so at least i didn't screw that up.
I am still planning to check the fuel pressure at idle and put a clear line in the output of the VRO to check for bubbles just to be sure. Bulb will get hard and soften a little after the engine is running.
-James
The manual says to use a small wire to push them out. I have tried pushing them out using electric fence wire from the back of the engine (well actually pulling with a "J" in the wire toward the intake manifold), but I cant get any of the valves to come out. Even broke the tip off my pocket knife trying to pry them out (I knew that what a bad idea, but I was desperate).
Also, does anyone have any experience using an inline check valve to replace the brass recirculation valves (4 out of the 6 were bad the other 2 were questionable)? The recirculation valves are ~$30 a pop. Surely an inline check would do the same thing right??
like this guy: link
A little more info on my adventures incase you have been down this road before.
I am suspecting a lean condition at idle.
I recently bought a '95 225 Johnson Venom and I am in the process of getting to the bottom of a rough idle and off idle bog; runs great at WOT but I have to push the primer to get past the dead spot. Carbs were spitting and it was pretty tough to start and i had to keep a good bit of throttle on the engine to keep it running.
The engine had one 4" piece of the old gray fuel line that been eaten up by ethanol gas. I replaced that piece, went through the other lines, and I was sure that the low speed jet were clogged. The carbs were pretty clean but there were little pieces of the broken down fuel line in the float valves so I didn't order any kits, cleaned everything (well i missed the calibration ports on the intake manifold getting those later) and put them back together.
Also I have checked the compression (~92psi on each a little low i think but they are all close), since then I have replaced the bulb with an BRP bulb, checked the VRO diaphragm (good), cleaned the carbs (kits are on the way), replaced spark plugs (factory spec'd plugs), checked the timing (good), removed wing nuts from the battery, checked the stator output after I found some goo under the stator (good), checked for damaged reeds (good), made the #2 cylinder high speed jet two sizes bigger for cooling, performed link and sync (found a missing screw on the port butterflies also not my smoking gun), checked the temperature (both sides getting sufficiently hot),and checked the interrupt switch (actually not working at all when i put it in gear).
The motor shows no response to idle screw adjustment when in the water or on the hose after I cleaned the carbs and replaced the gray fuel line. Still runs good at WOT so at least i didn't screw that up.
I am still planning to check the fuel pressure at idle and put a clear line in the output of the VRO to check for bubbles just to be sure. Bulb will get hard and soften a little after the engine is running.
-James
