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9.9 needs starter fluid to start when cold

P

PChenry

New member
My 9.9 when it's been sitting for a while I need to squirt in starter fluid, leave the choke off and open the throttle to get it to start. Once it starts it runs fine idle and all, and will restart easily even if it has only run a few seconds. I've changed the fuel, and pulled off the carburetor, took it apart and cleaned every part and jet I could find, (there weren't many). I still have the same problem. the Honda shop didn't have any ideas except clean the carburetor, ( of course they want me to bring it to them, $95 per hr.). Does anyone here have any ideas? Thanks Phil
 
These carburetors can be tricky to clean.---Folks often have to do it 3 / 4 times before they get at all the tiny jets and passageways.
 
Well, the reason you need to leave the choke off and open the throttle is that the starter fluid can't get through those two items and into the cylinders if either of them are closed. And, your problem may not be carburetor related but, in fact, compression related. You need to figure out which before you damage the engine with ether.

If you continue to use ether to start the engine, it will become what we call in mechanicland an "ETHER BABY". Tragically and fatally "addicted" to the stuff until it's use becomes it's ultimate demise. Just like a crackhead.

Each and every time ether is sprayed into an engine and is ignited, it causes some damage. The reason that THIS IS ABSOLUTELY TRUE, is that ether is much more VOLATILE than gasoline and, when ignited, it tends to EXPLODE rather than "FLAME ON" as gas does. The resultant and ACCUMULATIVE damage this incurs on the engine will eventually lower the compression sufficiently enough that, when cold, it simply cannot vaporize the incoming cold fuel sufficiently enough to ignite and then the use of ether becomes mandatory if you need it to start.

I am using capitols not to yell at you but to try and emphasize how bad ether is for an engine. Yes it is quick and easy to grab a can and get a balky engine going but it really should only be used in an emergency. I urge you to stop using it immediately. Use instead, carburetor spray if you absolutely are in a position that you need to run the outboard while you're trying to figure this out. Carb spray works almost as well as ether for getting one going like this and it is less likely to cause damage. Propane gas is an even better option for "artificial enrichment" but it won't work on really cold days.

Ok, after my rant on ether, lets get back to your problem.

I believe it is PROBABLY one of two things; either you're not getting enough gasoline to the engine when it is cold due to a malfunctioning/mis-adjusted choke OR, you have low compression. The first thing I would do is just observe the choke and make sure it is closing completely when fully set. That is IF you have a manual choke and IF it is a 2000 or older model. You don't say what year your outboard is in your post. I would also want to know if it is pull start or electric or both. Get back with that info and I'll see if we can't figure this one out.
 
Thanks, actually I was using term starter fluid genericly, I have been using carb cleaner. The motor is a 2007 I believe. Ibought it new about 5 years ago. It is a pull start. When I pulled and cleaned the carb I also cleaned the e tire choke assemlby, it seems to all work ok. Also compression seems to be good when I pull to start. Thanks again for the reply. Phil
 
Ok, that's great news about not using the ether. Bad, bad ju-ju! So, we are probably ok there.

When you say you cleaned the entire choke assembly, please explain. Your carb should have a two piece, knob/cable/housing and a "valve set" attached to it that screws in to the carb with plastic threads. See items 12 and 20 in the link below.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H.../BF9.9DK0 LHA /CARBURETOR (MANUAL)/parts.html

The cable must be attached to the valve set prior to installation and this makes the two pieces come off and go back on the carb as one piece.The metal "plug" that is attached to the end of the cable is the choke "mechanism". It simply blocks or unblocks the enrichment passage when the cable is pushed or pulled. Did you remove this contraption from the carb and spray clean the passage and cross drillings underneath?

I have seen the plastic threads for these strip badly and cause the choke not to work correctly. It is also possible for the little "plug" to come off of the end of the cable and then there would be no choke. And, the cable housing breaks right where the permanent bend is just above the plastic threads. This can cause the cable to flex too much to unplug the enrichment passage and, again, no choke action. This also lets dirt enter the cable housing and valve set and will, eventually, find it's way into the carburetor.

If you bought the outboard new, then you would know whether or not the valves have ever been adjusted. If they have not, then now is the time to get that done. They may be a bit tight and be the cause of this problem. Valves tend to wear and go out of adjustment in the first 100 hours of the engine's life. They do wear after that of course but the initial break in wear can be dramatic. So get them adjusted if you haven't already.

As far as your compression seeming "ok", that's all well and good but not very scientific.The ONLY way to determine if the compression is adequate for cold start is to do a compression check using a compression gauge and proper procedure. It is not hard to do and compression gauges don't cost a great deal. However, it IS hard to find the right adapter for these spark plug holes. I made my own but you might have some trouble there. Autozone has a tool lending program wherein you might be able to obtain what you need for a returnable deposit if you choose to do the work yourself. Adjust your valves prior to doing this test so that you get accurate results.

Those are the things I would check and correct initially for this complaint. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask any questions.
 
Good news I got it fixed. With the help of a friend here at the marina who has a 9.9 just like mine, which he drowned one time and it was on the bottom for about an hour before he could get it out, then got it cleaned up and now running great. He therefore had a lot of experience with this motor. Anyway we took the carburetor apart again and cleaned it really well. When I did it I concentrated on the jets, accelerator pump and choke. He checked those again as well but sprayed about a can of cleaner through the relief holes in the bottom of the bowl and everywhere else. We put it back together and it started, one pull. Oh we also checked the plugs and they seemed OK, there was a little oil on the plug from the bottom cylinder, I don't know if that is something I should be concerened about. I don't have shop manual, but for future reference if I should want to check them do you know what the valve clearances and the compression should be? Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it. Phil
 
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