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87 60hp johnson

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Boscdad

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I was given a 16 ft Alumacraft with a 1987 60 hp Johnson - J60TLCUC. The boat was part of an estate and is registered through 2024, but no one has any history on it. I pulled the plugs and saturated the cylinders with penetrating oil. I plan to add fresh fuel tomorrow and see if it runs. I will check the compression cold and hot(if it runs). I also have a good 1988 Evinrude 48 spl. My question is twofold. If the 60 hp is bad, will my 48 powerhead fit in place of the 60? I know the 48 is 2 cyl vs 3 cyl for the 60. I would like to be able to retain the trim and tilt which the 60 has. Can the trim and tilt assy be transfered to the 48? Ideally I would like the 48 with t&t since it must be at least 50 lbs lighter. I'm guessing these are two completely different engine families, but I'm a novice and thought I would seek expertise from this group. Thanks in advance.
 
Post the all important compression values here.----With those posted , folks might be able to steer you on the correct path of getting it running.
 
So.. after letting it sit overnight with penetrating oil in the cylinders I turned it over by hand to be sure not to hydrolock it, then checked compression cold
1- 95
2- 65
3- 100
Not encouraging but I proceeded to check carbs - they were dry and showed no signs of varnish so I proceeded to put fresh gas in the tank. I mixed it 50:1 since I don't know if the oil system is functional (how do you test it?)
With carbs pressured up with the fuel bulb and a hose and muff on it I cranked on it and it popped and sputtered but did not start. After checking fuel filter and rinsing it in carb cleaner I tried again and it started and ran. Very rough at first but then it smoothed out some. When idled down it died, but would run smoothly with just a little help from fast idle lever (what's that called?) At fast idle it pumped a healthy stream from the telltale, but at the low idle it did not so I expect the water pump is toast. Now that it runs I will replace the impeller and whatever else the pump needs. Now for the hot compression readings:
1-110
2- 95
3- 115
Better and closer together but still more than 10% from low to high.
Should I put rings in it? What is normal cranking compression?
I would like to leave it alone if these readings are "OK" for a 37 year old engine. Am I being too wishful to think the spread in compression might improve after some more run time?
I already have my dock out so I will not run the boat anymore until next spring.
If I'm way off on compression values I could pull the power head and take it to Texas and overhaul it over the winter.
Any thoughts welcome
Thanks
 
A good compression reading would be 140 PSI on those.-----Next step is to remove cylinder head to have a look in there.
 
Pulled the head. All three cylinders are smooth with no scoring. They appear glazed with no visible cross hatch. So.... are the rings just worn. Should I reassemble and run it next Spring?
 
If there is no visible crosshatching in the cylinders your motors has lots of hrs on it.-----I would say it needs a rebuild.----Can you provide an ACCURATE cylinder diameter measurement ?
 
That can not give the information needed.-----If cylinder diameter is worn by 0.004" it needs a rebore and new O/S pistons fitted.-----Now if you have to pay a shop to do this work you are out of luck.----It would be new or used replacement motor time.
 
Well, I can't bore the block. Are the piston pins pressed in or spiral locks? I am shut down until spring. Greased the cylinder bores. Will drag this to a machine shop in Spring to measure wear, taper, whatever. I guess I'll swap the 48 on and use the boat while I sort out this 60. Sure would like the t&t. Forecast is for 1-3" snow in Couderay on Thursday. Leaving Sunday for Texas.
 
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