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86 85hp force, #1 cylinder issues

J

JordanR86

New member
I got a 1986 85hp force 3 cylinder outboard. Right now the boat doesn’t get to full speed of 32 mph. It goes about 5 mph. Last year it had a similar issue with cylinder #3 and a rectifier fixed it. This year not so much. I’ve switched the ignition packs and the problem remains on cylinder 1. I’ve resistance checked the stator, triggers and they seem good resistance wise. I used a tachometer and spark tester and have spark on all 3 cylinders. Cylinders 2&3 had 22 volts going to them and #1 had only 4 volts on the spark plug wire. My next test is to switch the ignition control modules as the one is only using half for the third cylinder at the moment. With that I’ll have to switch the trigger and stator wires to maintain the timing. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I forgot to add that currently the idle is screwed most the way out to enable shifting gears, or the rpm’s would be too low to maintain the engine while shifting gears.
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
Sounds like the stator.
A stator can test good and still be bad :(
Click to expand...
Would you happen to know if there’s a test I can do or what kind of voltage I should see off it while running? I could use the sharp test leads from a multimeter and probe each output. I’m just not sure what voltage comes off the stator other than being AC. Thank you
 
outboardigniyion.com has test procedures for your motor.
Some can be done with an Analog style meter, the rest need a DVA or Peak Reading volt meter.
You can buy the meters or make an adaptor for your meter(if you have one??) The test are easier to read/understand if you open the site and look up the test for your motor.

No fire on any cylinder: 1. Check the resistance from each blue to the yellow wires, you should read approximately 300 ohms.2. Check the resistance from each blue and yellow wires to engine ground, you should read open circuit (Just like the leads were not touching anything).3. Check DVA (Peak voltage) from blue to the yellow wires, you should read at least 180V.4. Check the DVA (Peak voltage) from each blue and yellow wires to engine ground, you should read no voltage or extremely low voltage. No fire on one cylinder:1. Check the resistance from the blue to the yellow wire on the pack not firing, you should read approximately 300 ohms. If the resistance is not right, check the other set of wires. If the other set is ok, gently pull on the wires close to the connector. If the insulation stretches, the wire is broken inside the insulation and a new terminal needs to be put on.2. Check DVA (Peak voltage) from the blue to the yellow wire, you should read at least 180V.3. Check DVA (Peak voltage) from the Blue and Yellow wires to engine ground. The readings should be approximately the same. If the readings are very different, disconnect the connector going to the pack with the low reading. If the DVA from the Blue and Yellow wires to engine ground on the other pack is now checking correctly, the pack you disconnected is likely bad. On a 2cylinder engine, swap the Blue and Yellow wires and see if the problem moves to the other cylinder. If it does, the stator isdefective. If not the pack is likely bad.NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS: If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per no fire any cylinder above. If the #1 and #3 cylinders are not firing, disconnect the Brown/Yellow wire from the pack #1 and retest. If you now get fire on #3, replace the #1 pack. If still no fire on #3, disconnect the Brown/Yellow wire from the pack #2 and retest. If you now get fire on #1, replace the #2 pack. If the #2 and #4 cylinders are not firing, disconnect the Brown/Blue wire from the pack #1 and retest. If you now get fire on #4, replace the #1 pack. If still no fire on #4, disconnect the Brown/Blue wire from the pack #2 and retest. If you now get fire on #2, replace the #2 pack. Connections (2 and 3 Cylinder Engines) (4 Cylinder Engines)Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 cylinders) Pack #2 (Firing #3 and #4 cylinders) Trigger: Orange Pack: Orange Trigger: Orange Pack: Orange Green Green Green Green Orange Red Orange Red Green White/Green stripe Green White/Green stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow stripe Pack: Yellow Stator: Brown/Yellow stripe Pack: YellowBrown/Blue stripe Blue Brown/Blue stripe Blue Coil #1: White Pack: Orange Coil #3: White Pack: OrangeCoil #2: White Pack: Red Coil #4: White Pack: RedPack #2 (Firing #3 cylinder) Trigger: Red Pack: Red White/Green stripe White/Green stripe Stator: Brown/Yellow stripe Pack: Blue Coil #3: White Pack: Red
 
Awesome I appreciate it. The dva tool is that the same as the tach tool? The tool I got from work tested spark, rpm and voltage by using a capacitive tip. I place it against the spark plug wire to use it. Also if it turn out the stator is off on one section could I split the wire and use it to power two ignition modules you think? Or do the modules need to be out of phase to function properly. Sadly there isn’t much parts available for this particular motor anymore.
 
Hey I’m in Quinte West Ontario. I’ve looked online and only parts seem to be off eBay. Though most sellers are selling as “as is”.
 
He's in Canada. Some places don't want to sell to them :(
boatsdotnet I think they sell to Canada.
Standard Magneto has parts for your ignition system. Cheaper too.
The DVA is not the same tool.
Electronic Specialties sells the meter or look on Google for directions to make an adaptor for your analog(sweep) meter.
Google: how to make a DVA Adaptor. A bunch of video's open
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
He's in Canada. Some places don't want to sell to them :(
boatsdotnet I think they sell to Canada.
Standard Magneto has parts for your ignition system. Cheaper too.
The DVA is not the same tool.
Electronic Specialties sells the meter or look on Google for directions to make an adaptor for your analog(sweep) meter.
Google: how to make a DVA Adaptor. A bunch of video's open
Click to expand...
Thank you. Standard magneto has very good prices. I messaged them about ordering parts and shipping. Very much appreciated. Since the stator builds charge in the ignition modules, think I’d be able to use one output to charge 2 modules?
 
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