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8 horse long shaft

highflyer

New member
MY first post..ill be careful and short..i just picked up a [i was told] 2004 8 horse honda..dont know anything about bf or numers [yet]..starts 1/2 pull idles well runs well..little soft on impeller discharge gets stronger as rpm picks up...my prob is it has a roar slight but no prob hearing it ..idle very slight..pick it up a few hun rpm gets louder at 1500 or so almost gone...sounds like a bearing roaring and at top of motor under recoil starter rear belt area or front belt area not sure.valves arnt eccesivly noisy .motor is clean under cowl and out...has anyone faced or seen this problem before....any help would be welcome...tx tx ..j:)
 
Good motors but I've found a few of the BF8D's had the nut that holds the timing belt drive gear back off. I usually noticed a "ringing" and a "dinging" noise as the big washer jumped up and down though...not a roar. But, there was some damage occuring to the nut, drive gear and crankshaft key, so I guess any kind of noise is possible with all that going on.

First thing I'd try is to remove the recoil starter assembly and use an emergency rope to start the engine and see if the noise is still present. If it goes away, it's in the recoil assembly. It might be something as simple as the nuetral start lockout cable being out of adjustment. You'll get a feel for how that works when you pull the unit. Just three bolts and the cable holding it to the motor. Just make sure you're in nuetral when you start her up! Happy hunting.

Almost forgot...You should probably replace the waterpump as the stream noticeably increasing with rpm usually indicates a damaged impeller.
 
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Thank you for a reply...that was my first thot ,to pull the recoil starter and see what it does...I stopped by the local shop and owner looked it up on his puter and said no ball or roller bearings under the belt..either end...i held tension on the recoil starter and except for a slight jingling/rattle noise[im assuming dogs] going away it didnt change..ill look at it tomorrow with your recomendation...how much work to replace that impeller..the shop owner said 100 bucks plus parts so at 90 dollars an hour...well about an hor means not to much trouble[done oters brands]...thanks very much for your help and time...j
 
The impeller change on these is pretty easy. Find the shift rod connector (one long nut and a jam nut) at front of lower end and disconnect then five bolts for gearcase to extension and gearcase slides right off with pump housing fully exposed.

I refuse to even do these without the full and complete kit Honda sells. It comes with everything you need to do a good job ie: impeller with housing and seal, new drive key (VERY important!), friction plate and gasket as well as a new water tube connector and new bolts. I tell my customers that if they pony up the cash now for this kit, they can cheap out and just buy the impeller and drive key next time since we know it's all fresh. They're already "saving a buck" using my cut rate services so if they don't want to do it right, they can do it themselves. You can make up your own mind. Just make sure that you look CAREFULLY at all those parts before you decide. Use plenty of assembly lube to prevent dry start.

One thing that doesn't come with the kit is a little seal that sits on a gusset in front of the pump assembly. It is called a "water grommet". I suspect that it is actually a pad for helping to quiet harmonics coming from the gearcase but I'm not sure. It's there, you'll be there, so why not change it?

If you are concerned that something is happening under the flywheel to make that noise, then you will need to remove it to take a peek. I can tell you this; it is a taper shaft with a key and it comes off HARD. I use an impact gun with a Snap-On wheel puller to get them off and there is always the danger of one cracking. Haven't broken one yet but...

If you do decide to go that route, make sure that you leave the flywheel nut threaded on loosely so that when she comes free, it won't shoot out into the street or, worse yet, hit you in the mug.

Try this: Unbolt the three bolts on the recoil starter and, leaving the cable attached, just lay it out of your way. Get a section of coathanger and use it to probe up under the flywheel for the big washer that is used as the timing belt guide and retainer. If you can detect any movement of that washer then the nut has come loose and you need to get that resolved asap. Honda makes a hard as nails crankshaft so it is probably ok but you will need to replace the timing gear, belt guide, woodruff key and retainer nut.

If you don't find the washer loose then good but...You're noise could still be coming from up under the flywheel. Something else I've found lately on a couple of '03
BF8D's is the delamination of the charging and pulsar coil insulation. It gets dry and brittle and starts to peel. I just use sterile gauze and shellac to re-wrap them when I find that. I never associated any noise with these but I guess it is possible that a piece has come loose and is rubbing the flywheel.
 
Well, iv finally got to starting this motor up ...first i took the pull starter off laid it to the side then roamed under neath with my fingers and a long s driver found the washer and decided its not loose,,,everything was tite and in its place...i looked for something rubbing and to see if i could find a pile of filings rubber or plastic or metal and found none ,..no rub marks at all...put a tank under it and started it with a short shank and let it run...took a few seconds for it to open thermo and it had a 2 to 3 inch pee of water till i brough it off idle then the stream would try to push my finger out of the way..nice strong push of water...still couldnt find where the noise i think im hearing is from...im beginning to think its exhaust...as far as replacing the impellar,i couldnt find the shift rod with nuts...this is a front shift model with removable side for access to the oil filter..is this spot access to the shift rod...thanks and all help much appreciated[i really dont want ,but maybe my next step is to remove the f/w...]j
 
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The shift shaft connection is located at the front of the EXTENSION CASE. I think I neglected to tell you to shift the motor into reverse before trying to disconnect the nuts. You should still be able to locate them in nuetral but they are easier to get a wrench on when in reverse. It sounds like your pump is working ok so that's a judgement call as to if you want to R&R it or not. I strongly recommend that you buy the shop manual from HELMINC.COM if you are going to work on the motor as little details like shifting to reverse are in there and then you won't need to rely on someone online to walk you through repairs with complete accuracy. Good luck.
 
yes im going to do that...if you are recomending this one then it must work out ok...as far as the noise ,ill get to playing with it some go out and do some trolling and get a feel for what it is doing..till then,im out for awhile ,your help wasnt wasted,i just need to get into it ....soon tx again...j
 
You're welcome. The Helm Inc. manual is the only one all the veterans use on this site and it is the "official" Honda shop manual. Seloc, Clymer, and Haynes manuals are less expensive but not really worth the trouble in my opinion. Life can be vague enough without trying to cover 39 different models and sizes in one manual which is what these three attempt in order to get people to buy.

I will ber very interested to see what you learn about the noise. Sounds like a new one on me. Good luck.
 
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