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225hp top engine mounts

R

Rtant

Member
Hi guys anyone changed the top engine mounts? The shop manual describes it as one hell of a job basically stripping down the engine and other things to get to them. Wondered if anyone has done this and found any short cuts or perhaps not as bad as i fear?

Have two 12year old outboards and starboard one wobbles at high speed and has more play in the mounts when i wobble it.

Alternatively may just change the lower ones and see if that helps.

Thanks.
 
I tried looking at the diagrams its hard to tell what all needs to be done. There are two long bolts going to the swivel tube from inside the engine somewhere. You need to separate the engine from the swivel tube i am sure shift components are involved as well. Best to do the one that needs it first then you can use that to do the other one. Probably save a couple grand doing it yourself do you have a engine hoist?
 
Uhm yeah I'd say more than an hour. I've had my engine torn down to the point I could have changed mine. That wasn't the reason I tore it down that far so I really can't say how far I would have had to go just for that job but the only "heavy" equipment I had was an engine hoist. If you are good with your wrenches you should be able to tackle the job with a shop manual. If you get stuck reply here and I'll check back when I get the notification. I'm sure you'll find lots of help from everyone else here as well. I do remember thinking they could have made them less work to get to.
 
Thanks nasty Wendy was that during your saga with the bad gasket material gunging up your fuel system? I've had the vapour separator off before (float valve stuck open) so if it's only a little more dismantling than that perhaps I'll give it a go. It was the rather general engine dismantling description in the shop manual that scared me.
Yeah shame parts are not easier to get to, guess after 12 years they expect you to buy new.
 
Yeah in my case after 16 years they'd expect I'd have bought new. LOL. This wasn't my gasket material saga. When I bought the boat it had an oil leak coming from the seal around the shift shaft. I tore the engine down to the mounting plate to change those seals. I believe it was a double seal. So its been a while but I remember seeing the engine mounts and saying man that's going to suck "AGAIN" if I have to change those.

I did lift the power head from the mounting plate. Just keep track of all the bolts and locations. A few are the same size but different lengths and can get mixed up. A paint pen is a good way to mark them and the locations. Put a number on the bolt head and then number the hole it came from do that before you remove them rather than while you are removing them. There may be one or two that you can't reach to mark but mark somewhere near and mark the bolt once its out. I wasted a fair amount of time figuring out which bolt went back in what hole. Get a good torque wrench for reassembly. You may need an inch/lb wrench but I can't remember for sure. If I needed one I best guessed it but I make clicking sounds like a torque wrench when I'm tightening bolts anyway so all I was missing was the ability to truly measure torque because I can make the sound with my mouth.

The bolts that I recommend you mark are the ones that bolt in from the bottom of the mounting plate.
 
Thanks good tip re bolt head identification. Also guess the clicking worked as i assume the engine is still holding....
 
Rtant said:
Thanks good tip re bolt head identification. Also guess the clicking worked as i assume the engine is still holding....
Click to expand...

Yeah it is one of those things that I do that I cannot with good conscience recommend that anyone does. I do break out the torque wrench for critical service bolts though.
 
Could I offer a tip on top engine mounts on the V6 Hondas? When you get to them, you will more than likely find the mounts themselves are still okay, however they will probably be loose in the housing. If you remove the top clamping plate and get a sheet of glass with 400 wet & Dry paper, you can rub down the face of the clamping plate until you have about .010" gap when placed back on top of the mounts. Once this is done, smeer loctite all over the metal casing on the mount rubber and reassemble. Once this is done you will have no more problems. I work on these motors a lot and it is a very common problem on motors that have done 1000hrs plus.
 
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