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225 stuttering over 2800 RPMs

T

TSANG151

New member
i have had some issues with my 225 stuttering over 2800 RPMS and was wondering if anyone could provide any suggestions. this is the second time this has happened and when i originally bought the unit it was fixed under warranty and now the dealer is being "difficult" with the information as to what was done since it was under warranty at the time and they want me to bring the boat in so they can properly diagnose this issue. I have replaced all known filters for fuel and now i am thinking it may be an air intake issue possibly but i cannot find any air intake filters for this motor... on top of that i also have a constant check engine light on after the engine is run for 5-10 minutes. any suggestions on what type of scanner would be necessary to read the codes for this engine? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
At first blush, I would suspect a bad spark plug(s) or a clogged up high pressure fuel filter. However, you can get a basic diagnosis by shunting the service plug and reading the number of blinks on the MIL light. You need to retrieve the codes from the EPROM in the on-board engine computer - the Electronic Control Module or ECM.

Take off the engine cover and the plastic cover over the electronics on the front ofthe engine. There you will see a red four-pronged female plug. Use a paper clip to shunt the lime green/white wire to the black wire – that is, the two wires that are closest to the engine when the red service connector is correctly set in it’s holder. If in doubt, invest in a SCS service connector, which you can order online. Part number 070PZ-ZY30100.

Once connected, turn on the key switch and observe the number of blinks on the check engine (MIL) light. If the MIL comes on and stays on without blinking, you have one of the following conditions:
• Short circuit in the service check connector wire
• Short circuit in the MIL wire
• Short circuit in the sensor system power supply
• Open circuit in the power supply line to the ECM
• Faulty ECM

If the MIL comes on, then goes off after a few seconds, there are no codes in the EPROM.
If the MIL starts blinking, then count the blinks, which will indicate the fault code. You may get long blinks and short blinks. For example, two long blinks,followed by five short blinks, would be a fault code 25. The blink sequence will repeat itself until you turn the key off. If there is more than one fault, you will get multiple fault codes.For example, three short blinks, followed by two long blinks and five short blinks would be fault codes 3 and 25. Post the number of blinks and I will try to tell you what the error code is. Or, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will send you the codes in .pdf format that I copied from the Helm shop manual.

 
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chawk, thank you so much for the info. do you know if these engines have intake filters for air? I replaced the high pressure fuel filter and that does not seem to be the issue. the plugs were replaced as well. i can only think maybe the fuel or air intake filter if there is one that is clogging and therefore not allowing for proper air fuel mix at higher RPMs.
 
There are no air intake filters. Still think you need to run the diagnostics as I posted previously.

Here is another possibility - I assume no alarms are going off, since you did not mention any,and your green oil light is on while underway.

1. If you have an external fuel-water separator (which you should have), drainit, temporarily bypass it, or replace it.

2. While underway, open your gas filler cap and see if that clears up theproblem. If so, you have a clogged breather tube to your tank.

3. While underway, at the point where power is stalling out, check your pump upbulb. If flat, you have a partially clogged pick up tube in your gas tank.

4. Run a clear plastic line from your pump up bulb to your onboard fuel waterseparator and see if you are getting any air bubbles in it while running.

5. Drain your VST. The VST is in place to assure an adequate amount ofnon-turbulent fuel is available to the high pressure fuel pump. (The fuel in theVST tank is kept under pressure to prevent vaporization, thus preventing thefuel from becoming too lean under variable demand.) On the back starboard sideof your motor, you will see a plastic tube looped around a holder. Unhook it,and look down at the base where it connects. Beside the connection is a smallset screw. Use a long flat blade screwdriver to open the set screw - slowly.With the end of the hose extended downward into a clear container that willhold at least a quart of liquid, start opening the set screw. Do not open toofar - if it comes out, you will need to remove the lower cowling to retrieveit. Anywhere from two to three pints of gas, and maybe some water and gunk willcome out of that tube. Be patient, the last stuff to come out is usually slow,but drain out as much as you can. If there is water, or any gunk, then yourfuel-water separator and low pressure fuel filter have failed and need to bereplaced. If you are still having problems, then it may be necessary to remove the VSTand clean the screen on the outflow tube and check the float valve in there - thay could be clogged up.
 
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