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225 making oil...please help

R

reeladdiction

New member
2008 single 225 w/650 hrs was 1" over mark approx. 40 hrs after oil change at 600 hr service.
Took to dealer , checked the stats, found 1 stat normal, the other "kinda stuck" & making one bank run cooler.
Changed both....both looked pretty good for being original stats, some corrosion & deposits, one worse than the other.
checked oil after picking up from shop and was 1/2" below upper mark,tech says he purposely underfills.
Ran boat yesterday for a few hours, checked oil and its approx 1/8" over upper mark...wtf?
New stats are bad or something else I should consider?
Happy New Year to all and thanks in advance.
 
On the 225 the tilt of the engine makes a fairly significant difference on the dipstick reading. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil to see of there is a smell of gasoline. Also, make sure the oil is clear and not cloudy, which would indicate water intrusion. 1/8" over the mark is not fatal. Just keep an eye on it. If it goes up more, then pull the stats and check them on a stove in hot water with an instant thermometer. For the 225 stats beginning opening is approx 140F, full open is approx 160F, and open distance is 3 mm.
 
Chawk,
1/8" over is after only 4 hrs of run time....mostly out of gear while drifting or trolling, only opened her up for a couple of minutes in the intercoastal.
Oil just changed so its still crystal clear with no obvious fuel smell.
If new stats check out fine could it be carbon build up allowing for blow by?

thanks for replying.
 
That four hours of drifting and trolling may have prevented the engine from keeping the proper operating tem. The only way to "make oil" is to add gasoline. The only way gasoline can get into the oil is by the rings. That will happen if the engine is running too cold (thermostats stuck open) or rings are stuck or worn if engine has come up to proper operating temperature. So if stats check out, then you would want to de-carbon the engine using Sea Foam, YamaLube Ring Free, or a similar decarbonizer. BUT before doing that, I would want to confirm that gasoline is actually getting by the rings using a compression test and a leak down test. I sill think that there is a possibility that here may be a difference on how the tech measured the oil level and the way you are measuring it, especially since there is no smell of gas in the oil.
 
The very high oil level that was probably originally caused by the bad thermostat, may have also fouled one or more of the plugs and the cylinders may not be firing correctly because of it.

Check the spark plugs closely when you go to do the leakdown and compression tests.

Do not forget to change the oil and filter again after you de-carbon the engine.

Mike
 
Never decarbed before.
Buddy of mine buys fing free by the case for his yam and offered a couple of quarts.
For a shock treatment what do you guys recommend as a minimum?

O 2 sensor or Plugs have to replaced as well after shock.?....and if so denso or ngk?
 
I think the instructions say to use 2 oz per gallon for a shock treatment. If you do the shock treatment, drain your vapor separator first, that way the treatment will begin quicker (you will not have to burn up the fuel in the vapor separator).

I have not had to replace the O2 sensor afterwards as of yet. The plugs will probably be black. If they have never been changed, you should probably change them anyway.

Only use the NGK spark plugs. Stay away from Densos or any other brand of so called equivalent.

Mike
 
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