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2011 Honda 15hp SS keeps dying

Rowing coach 1

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Engine keeps dying out after about 8 minutes. Will re start after multiple pulls. Thermostat is good, gas line has been checked and working correctly. We are 50 miles from closest Honda marine. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated:)
Thank you!
 
Hi,
More questions than answers...

Do you think that it is getting hot? It sounds like it might be to me. If it is, you must stop trying to use it until it is repaired. An infrared temp gun would help diagnose this.

If it's not overheating then the 8 minute thing makes me think it could be an exhaust leak causing the engine to starve for oxygen. Try running it with the hood removed to.see if that makes a difference.

If it's not overheating and it doesn't have an exhaust leak it may be starving for fuel. Again, the 8 minute thing makes me think of a "pattern" failure caused by a partially closed or clogged fuel tank vent.

Another reason these engines will "gasp" for fuel is that the fuel chamber (a rubber device mounted on the engine oil dipstick tube) is full of water. If you have never removed the fuel chamber and emptied all liquid from it, it is time to do so. This is a once every season "chore" that engines with fuel chambers require. Not difficult...just a pain.

There's a few ideas anyway. Let us know if you discover something or have more questions.

Good luck.
 
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Another thing that can happen with the small Honda twins is that they will run very well on one cylinder at times. They are nicely balanced engines and can seem "normal" when, in fact, one cylinder isn't firing.

A simple test helps identify this condition:

Remove both spark plug wire caps and apply a very slight "smear" of dielectric (tune up) grease inside the lip of the cap. Reinstall plug wires. They will now be very easy to remove and put back for the test.

Start the engine.

Using plug wire pliers,... a thick, DRY glove.... or a doubled up DRY shop towel or rag, pull the top plug wire quickly away from the spark plug. Note the change this makes in the way the engine runs. Reinstall wire.

Next remove the bottom wire and note changes in engine performance.

If the engine changes equally with each cylinder dropped out...even if it sputters and dies in both instances, then the cylinders are each contributing equally.

If the engine runs radically different ie: dies when one is unplugged and stays running when the other is unplugged...then the cylinder that causes the most change when unplugged is the STRONGEST cylinder. The cylinder that causes the least change in engine cadence is the WEAKEST one and should be further investigated.

WARNING! Don't attempt doing this if you have a heart condition or wear a pacemaker as there is the possibility of electrical shock.

It's just another thing that you can try if you think it necessary.

Good luck.
 
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