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2007 BF200's (230 hrs.) constant alarm

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markapriner

New member
Just had new fuel pumps, fuel filters, and any fuel system related parts all serviced by our local dealer (now that was expensive). Unfortunately sat for 2 months after a complete check out and clean slate.
Finally had some free time to flush the tanks and swap out the fuel separators. With new fuel engines start perfect but not 5 minutes running and each sound a constant alarm. (overheating?). Water pisses out with a strong stream when running on muffs but still overheats. New impellers and thermostats worked great when replaced but that was 3 years ago and only about 10 hours run time since then (reason for needing new fuel pumps - sat too long).
So even though water is coming out of the piss tube could the impellers still be bad?
Are the Honda OEM thermostats prone to freezing up if sitting like the fuel pumps?
Each idled just fine for about 20 minutes to assure a thorough flush from the last salt water run (3 years ago).
Any comments appreciated
Happy cinco de mayo
Mark
 
Is your overheat light on your key switch console glowing red when the alarm is sounding?

Unless you have exception water pressure on the hose to the muffs, and very good muffs that seal well, these engines will overheat. Try running them in a large barrel of water that is being constantly refreshed.
 
Just my opinion but if those Tstats are original, I would definitely suspect them for being the cause. They should have been replaced long ago.

If you want an accurate indication of how the cooling system is working you should run the outboard in a trash can with cold water constantly circulating in it. The muffs are ok for flushing but running in a test tank or can is more like on the water for judging performance.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Just my opinion but if those Tstats are original, I would definitely suspect them for being the cause. They should have been replaced long ago.

If you want an accurate indication of how the cooling system is working you should run the outboard in a trash can with cold water constantly circulating in it. The muffs are ok for flushing but running in a test tank or can is more like on the water for judging performance.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thank you
The stats were replaced with OEM ones 3 years ago with the impellers. problem with it is that covid kept it sitting the whole time. afterwards wouldn't start and had to bring it to the dealer as i couldn't figure out why. He replaced the fuel system and was to check it out for a clean bill of health while there. Well. life got in the away as well as finding the ambition to clean the tanks, drain the fuel etc (ran off a separate gas tank at the dealer). Now at least it does start but has the issues of red alarm on panel as well as buzzer which as far as i know signifies an overheating condition
I can replace the stats and the impellers again myself just cannot believe this is all it is. My old mercruiser sat for years at at time and all it needed was the points cleaned (should tell you how long ago that was) Never had to change thermostats and only one impeller at 10 years. Never overheated n
I just don't have a clue with these Honda's but that is what i have (only 230 hrs) and just cannot afford anther $3k fix. had hoped for some guidance as to what goes wrong with these engines when not used

Mark
 
Yes, I agree with you. I wouldn't think that parts that recent and just sitting would "go bad" in that time. I also don't believe that anything else associated with the cooling system would be affected that greatly from sitting if, in fact, the engine was flushed and drained before storage.
Try running it in a trashcan as both chawk_man and I suggest and see what it does.
If it still alarms I would look into the stats since there is always the possibility of one sticking. I have seen many new stats, of various brands, that don't work correctly right out of the box.
Good luck.
 
Let's start with the basics. When the alarm goes off, what lights on your key switch are on?

Attached is a list of alarm/lights that will help you hone in on the problem
 

Attachments

  • Alarms BF 225.pdf
    25.9 KB · Views: 13
chawk_man said:
Let's start with the basics. When the alarm goes off, what lights on your key switch are on?

Attached is a list of alarm/lights that will help you hone in on the problem
Click to expand...
Will try the trash can idea.
Best i remember it was just the red light but was more worried about shutting it down so didn't double check the lights which i will do this time. More like being so ticked off that it happened at all after spending that kind of dough at a real Honda dealer with them searching the history and giving the engines a clean bill of health just a few weeks prior.
The other oddity, at leas to me, is that both are doing the exact same thing in about the same amount of run-time. Took about 5 minutes to alarm so wouldn't think it oil pressure but will test the lights again.

THANK YOU for taking the time to reply
 
Didn't know you had two engines. You wrote: "The other oddity, at least to me, is that both are doing the exact same thing in about the same amount of run-time. Took about 5 minutes to alarm so wouldn't think it oil pressure but will test the lights again."

That sure sounds like an overheat because not enough water pressure and/or bad muffs. Test them in a trash can filled with water and constantly refreshed.
 
A faulty HO2 sensor does not set off the alarm on the 07 BF 225.

Do you have the four-light key switch, or the 2-light key switch with another two-light panel? That is, green oil pressure, red overheat, red alternator, and red MIL (check engine) light?

If so, see the attached - procedure for pulling fault codes and description of what the fault codes mean. Best to pull the fault codes, write them down, clear the fault codes, then run the engine until it alarms, and see what codes are in the EPROM.
 

Attachments

  • Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf
    189.6 KB · Views: 3
  • MIL Fault Codes Scanned.pdf
    85.1 KB · Views: 3
Thanks so much! This will be very helpful in the future... I now have an alarm after running for about 10 mins and going to try a barrel instead of muffs. Never had this issue in the past so going to try this first , then pull and replace thermostats and lower unit water pump.
 
Let us know what you find. FYI - you have a heat sensor on the top of each manifold, but the block heat sensor, called the ECT, is located in the V of the engine and you must remove a head to get to it. The ECT alarms between 225 and 230 F. Normal block temperature is between 195 and 212 F.
 
I'm alarming at 164'F which is really low. 3 Alarms 1st) says Engine power reduction , 2nd) Engine warning level 1, 3rd) engine over temp
only 258 hrs on my BF250
 
That's screwy. What is telling you that it's alarming at 164 F. If that is just the manifold temperature, it is normal - spec is 160 F. It's the block temperature sensor (ECT) that usually sets off the alarm and if you are reading that on your NMEA display, it will be the ECT reading. Still screwy.

Pull the fault codes as I posted. A code 6 is the ECT. Codes 24 and 25 are the manifold heat sensors.
 
Looks like I have a slightly stuck open thermostat. I have new ones so going to replace it and see if I can get alarm to go off. I assume that’s what made it alarm at 164 deg on my NMEA read out.
 
So are both motors still alarming when run in a barrel?

I wouldn’t think it should alarm at 164, but Chaulk will advise on that.
 
I only have one motor. Changed thermostats, cleaned the VST , changed water pump, motor oil , oil filter and gear oil while I was at it. Not alarming with muffs after 10 mins. Water pressure is 10-15 lbs with muffs. Need to go drop it in the water and run it hard for a while to knock the cobwebs out.
 
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