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2006 Honda BF200 - Repair or Replace?

G

gt1110

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I own a 2006 Honda BF200 with 180 hours on the motor. The motor was serviced by a certified Honda shop since new. This year, I had a new reputable shop commission the boat, but found the thrust bearing and housing was severely corroded and need to be replaced.

Despite what some say is a design flaw, I've had absolutely no luck with Honda corporate, who I thought would back up their product (they blamed the dealer).

Now, I'm stuck deciding whether to repair the motor (estimated cost 5-6K) or completely replace the engine. This motor was babied since new and I thought it would last forever. Evidently, the service dealer did a crap job maintaining it and now I'm stuck with a bag of .....

Should I repair (told it is a huge job) or replace? If I repair, could it happen again?

Very surprised, I thought Honda motors are a quality product. I have serious doubts.

Attached is a photo of the corroded bearing and housing.
334199d1370374020-honda-bf200-repair-replace-img_7314.jpeg
 
Glad you made it over here , I was in the same boat ( no pun intended) until I got over here. While you are waiting for some replies, you may want to search this site, myself and others have posted several threads on this issue, most of us have BF225's

Lots of experience with this issue, and you should be able to get it fixed for well under 2k. FWIW, my motor has always run great- just snakebit with these corrosion issues.

Good luck and keep us posted
 
Below about 15 posts is the thread "honda 200 hp. mid section noise please help". It discusses the root cause and may offer some insight into the costs of repair. I hope this helpful.
gt1110 said:
I own a 2006 Honda BF200 with 180 hours on the motor. The motor was serviced by a certified Honda shop since new. This year, I had a new reputable shop commission the boat, but found the thrust bearing and housing was severely corroded and need to be replaced.

Despite what some say is a design flaw, I've had absolutely no luck with Honda corporate, who I thought would back up their product (they blamed the dealer).

Now, I'm stuck deciding whether to repair the motor (estimated cost 5-6K) or completely replace the engine. This motor was babied since new and I thought it would last forever. Evidently, the service dealer did a crap job maintaining it and now I'm stuck with a bag of .....

Should I repair (told it is a huge job) or replace? If I repair, could it happen again?

Very surprised, I thought Honda motors are a quality product. I have serious doubts.

Attached is a photo of the corroded bearing and housing.
334199d1370374020-honda-bf200-repair-replace-img_7314.jpeg
Click to expand...
 
Other Line said:
Glad you made it over here , I was in the same boat ( no pun intended) until I got over here. While you are waiting for some replies, you may want to search this site, myself and others have posted several threads on this issue, most of us have BF225's

Lots of experience with this issue, and you should be able to get it fixed for well under 2k. FWIW, my motor has always run great- just snakebit with these corrosion issues.

Good luck and keep us posted
Click to expand...

Thanks OT....appreciate your advice....making calls to reputable honda service shops....hopefully, I can get some better news regarding a fix. Will keep you updated.
 
Yep - it's clearly a design flaw, and Yep, Honda has not been forthcoming on this issue. Only thing dealer can do is check the bearing every time engine is serviced. Not expensive to do, especially if the lower end has been dropped to change out the water pump impellar. Problem is not the dealer's fault, except for possibly not being aware of the flaw and checking closely. However, if that is the only problem with the engine, the $5K to $6k estimate is outrageous.

The problem occurs because apparently there is not enough water coming onto the bearing to properly lubricate it and the flushing system does not clean it out well enough. Thus, corrosion builds up, bearing fails in its seating, and starts to chew through the casement.

One of the many folks who have experienced and fixed this problem for far less money is Jamie Bostwick of Aristikat Charters in Venice, Florida. His handle on this forum is "Aristikat." His published phone number is 941-321-0852. He has twin 225's (same as your 200 except with V-tech) and has performed the repair on both engines. He will also advise you on getting the correct replacement casing that has been modified to (hopefully) keep the problem from re-occuring.

Whichever dealer you use to make the repair, make sure they check your engine serial number against Honda Service Bulletin 56. If your SN falls within those addressed in that bulletin, then have them also change out the original exhaust tubes to the new modified ones if that has not already been done. The entire procedure is covered in the SB, and Honda produces a kit with all the necessary parts to make the changeout. If you need a copy, send me an e-mail at [email protected].

Backing up a bit, you also contributed to the problem. A 2006 Honda BF200 with 180 hours? One of the things about these big Honda's is that the more you run them, the better they seem to run. Your engine is really not even completely broken in yet. Don't baby it - run it as hard as you safely can for the first 500 hours or so, and run it as often as you can. Just make sure you change the oil every 100 hours, or every season, whichever comes first and that engine should last a very long time. The Coast Guard was putting 5000 hours and more on those engines before retiring them.

Full disclosure - I'm not a Honda Tech or marine mechanic, just an owner who has taken great interest in my first four-stroke outboard after spending many, many years with gas-guzzling 2-stroke outboards and cranky old I/O's. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
Chris - darn, I'm getting forgetful. I forgot that you have done a good many of these repairs. Sorry 'bout that.
 
Just received repair bill from Honda service dealer - roughly $1,400 total (actual cost exceeded this figure, but Service shop honored quote).

Initially called Honda corporate for support ...went up the chain, but they offered nothing and blamed the dealer for poor maintenance (not the design). Honda Corp said Upper Cape Honda dealer blamed me for not bringing it to him when I changed water pump (had to wait six weeks for appointment...so I took it elsewhere).

Bottom line, repair was much less than anticipated. I found a great new Honda service shop and will stay far away from upper Cape Cod Honda dealer who sold me the engine, but treats his clients like crap (could not even get a return phone call!). Thanks to all for your sharing your expertise......GT.
 
GT - That was a very fair price for that repair. Did they mention anythng about the new casement with better water circulation ports. Personally, I've not had this problem but have closely monitored others who have and wanted to know if the redesigned casement fixes the problem permanently.

Also, was your SN within the range of those motors that needed the redesigned exhaust tubes?
 
chawk_man said:
GT - That was a very fair price for that repair. Did they mention anythng about the new casement with better water circulation ports. Personally, I've not had this problem but have closely monitored others who have and wanted to know if the redesigned casement fixes the problem permanently.

Also, was your SN within the range of those motors that needed the redesigned exhaust tubes?
Click to expand...

I agree, it was a very fair price for the repair. Not certain about new casement, but will ask about this and the exhaust tubes (my serial number is in the 1400 range) when I pick up the boat tomorrow. Will keep you posted.
 
Don't know. Either way, you will need to do those yourself or have someone do them for you since you are well out of warranty. Fortunately, I've not had to do that job on my own motor. PhatFireMan on this forum just posted the parts list need for doing the job. I think he got them from Boats.net. Very good prices. For a pro to do the job, I think you are looking at 2 to 3 hours of labor. For an amateur, it's probably a full day. You should read all the posts on PhatFireMan's thread. Very informative.
 
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