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2006 BF50a Power Tilt Trim Assembly

D

dsj1000

Member
The tilt trim assembly on my BF50A has started making unusual grinding noise this past week, when it is raising the motor. I checked the fluid and it was low, so I added ATF to top it off according to the service manual. I noticed a leak at the housing seam of the main cylinder where the case bolts together. The bolts are tight, but there is fluid seeping out when the unit is raising and lowering (no cracks in the casing).

I bought the boat last year and use it weekly, and it has always had a slow leak-down which causes the motor to lower about half way over the course of about a weeks time. I did verify that the manual release was not the problem. I opened and closed it several times and it works properly as far as I can tell. I suspect there is a small leak from one of the internal valves/o-rings, allowing the pump system to leak down over time.

I am now considering replacing the tilt trim assembly since I have two problems, with the internal grinding noise being a major concern now. So, my questions are:

1. Where can I get a new power assist tilt trim (56000-ZW4-H17 TRIM-TILT ASSY., POWER) for a good price?
2. Are there any compatibility issues that I will encounter/should consider when ordering the new assembly?
3. Are there any other items that I should also order and replace when replacing the tilt trim assembly?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Don
 
Just been through this with some friends.

Double check the part number you posted. I think it might be PN 56000-ZW4-H14. Boats.net says that also.

1. There is a fellow down in Florida that rebuilds them for $380. Live Tech Support please call me anytime at 727-612-8679, Please Ship you're unit to Five Star Marine. Address: 6902 Industrial Ave, Port Richey FL 34668 unit will fit in a Medium Flat Rate Priority Box.

2. From 2003 & earlier, the T/T unit was part number 56000-ZV5-823ZA, so be sure you get the right one.

3. Yes, be sure to get new E clips that keep the upper pin in place. Two of them. Item 40 at:

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2005/BF50A5 LRTA/POWER TRIM-TILT/parts.html

If you are operating in saltwater, I highly recommend that you put an extra coat of hard sealing paint on the motor cover before installing. They tend to rust out, destroying the motor.
 
Thanks CHawk. I got the part number from Honda Marine after putting in my serial number. So, if it is wrong, then I will have to talk with Honda Marine.

So, the rebuild service you speak about - do they replace the pump cartridge, and all the o-rings in the assembly for the price you stated ($380)? I would think this is essential in a rebuild.
 
Don't know. I just know that he does the rebuilds. I've not personally used him. Call and ask. I think he gives a two year guarantee.
 
Will keep trying to contact the FL overhaul person, but their voice mail box is full.

Anybody know of another source for all of the o-rings in the tilt trim unit? The websites that I have found do not list all of the o-rings separately, nor are they in a kit form.
Regarding the model number of my unit - what I listed in the first post is the correct unit number.

Also, I discovered that the power unit was originally manufactured by Showa, a Japanese company. I've sent them an email asking for help.

Thanks for your help.
 
Understand, but all of those pictures do not show part numbers for all of the o-rings on the four internal valves. That's my problem.
 
Finally got in touch with the "dude" in FL that can overhaul the trim assembly. It will cost a minimum of $400 + shipping + parts! So, that will leave me with a 10 year old rebuilt unit for about $500. So, I started looking for a new unit and found one for $700, so I ordered it!

Got the pressure washer out and started cleaning up the back end of the boat so that I can get the old unit off. Will update once I receive the new parts.

Thanks for everyones help!
 
That's a very good price for a new one.

Prior to installation, fill unit to proper level. (Shake it around a bit to get air bubbles out, and refill as necessary. Hook up the entire unit to the 2P connector. Turn battery on, and make sure it works properly and the motor doesn't get real hot as you exercise it up and down.

Removal and replacement can be a challenge. Raise the motor up all the way, drop the safety latch, and support the leg. A step ladder works well. Remove the two E clips that hold the upper pin in place. Gently knock through the upper pin without messing up the bushings. Then lower the rod all the way down, using the motor, or releasing the manual release valve. Unplug the T/T motor and the connector to the trim sensor.

Remove the through bolt on the bottom of the unit. It will stay in place because of the bushing pin that is in there.

Next you need to loosen the stern bracket bolts that go into the transom on the left or right. On the 2000 model, the left bolts seem easier, but you need to decide. Loosen the upper bolt and remove the lower bolt. Very gently pry apart the bottom of the stern bracket so you clear the bushing to drop it out. It you can't drop it out, then you will also need to remove the upper bolt that goes into the transom. The two SS wave washers will also drop out. Then you can pull out the entire unit. Be careful removing the wires that feed through the stern bracket.

Installation just is the reverse.

Good luck.
 
Thanks a bunch for the tips. My new pump will be delivered this Friday.

So, a new pump does not come filled with fluid? What fluid is recommended? The service manual only says ATF, and does not specify any particular type. However, I did read somewhere that I should NOT use the red ATF.
 
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