Logo
FULL SITE MENU

2006 BF 90 No Power

V

Vakula

New member
Hi all.
I overfilled my motor with oil.
First trip was OK.
Second trip it started to loose power occasionally and, in one instance, there was a blue smoke when I restarted the motor.
Third trip it could not start and when started, it had no power. The motor was running, but even at full throttle it had no power.
I drained some excess oil and changed the spark plugs. It just got a little bit better, but still has almost no power going forward and no power at all when in reverse.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Whoosh! Not good.
How "too much" oil did you overfill it with? Have you drained it back to the correct level?

I'll focus on the 3rd trip...you say "it could not start"....

When you tried to start it then, did it not start because it was turning over slowly at first then a little faster and then it started?

If that's what happened, I think you may have hydro locked it.

The oil may have worked it's way up on top of the cylinders and could have seriously damaged the engine. That's how connecting rods get bent and piston rings get broken.

I recommend you do a compression test to see if any of the cylinders are really far out of specification.

But first, disconnect the fuel, drain the carbs, activate the kill switch and pull ALL the plugs out. Then, crank it over a few times to blow the oil out of the top end. I wouldn't try running it anymore until you get a better idea of how bad it might be hurt.

Sorry this happened to you but you need to figure it out now so as not to cause any additional damage/expense.

If you got REAL LUCKY, the compression will be even and high enough and she may just be so oiled up it needs to sit a while to drain and then get taken on a run to "clear it's throat". But don't get in a hurry to do that until you know more.
One step at a time.
 
jgmo said:
Whoosh! Not good.
How "too much" oil did you overfill it with? Have you drained it back to the correct level?

I'll focus on the 3rd trip...you say "it could not start"....

When you tried to start it then, did it not start because it was turning over slowly at first then a little faster and then it started?

If that's what happened, I think you may have hydro locked it.

The oil may have worked it's way up on top of the cylinders and could have seriously damaged the engine. That's how connecting rods get bent and piston rings get broken.

I recommend you do a compression test to see if any of the cylinders are really far out of specification.

But first, disconnect the fuel, drain the carbs, activate the kill switch and pull ALL the plugs out. Then, crank it over a few times to blow the oil out of the top end. I wouldn't try running it anymore until you get a better idea of how bad it might be hurt.

Sorry this happened to you but you need to figure it out now so as not to cause any additional damage/expense.

If you got REAL LUCKY, the compression will be even and high enough and she may just be so oiled up it needs to sit a while to drain and then get taken on a run to "clear it's throat". But don't get in a hurry to do that until you know more.
One step at a time.
Click to expand...
Million thanks, jgmo!!!

Done everything you told me to do in your message. The compression reading on all 4 cylinders (cold motor, full throttle) is about 161 PSI.
I assume, I got REAL LUCKY as you said.
So now, how much time the motor should sit before I can try to take her on a run to "clear it's throat"?

And thanks again for your advise!!
 
Well, I don't know what the compression specification is for that engine but 161 seems to be fairly low to me.

The fact that it's even across all cylinders though is definitely encouraging. I would check valve timing and inspect the timing belt and tensioner components before considering running it again.

If that all checks good, not sure why it wouldn't make power.

When you ran it before, if there was still oil in the cylinders it could have affected a spark plug or two. You might consider a new set if it's still not running well. Just a guess though.

Depending on how overfilled the sump was (you never said), it may have pushed oil up through the crankcase vent tube and "flooded" the top of the head with oil. If it has oil trapped up in the baffling of the valve cover still, it could be oiling the air intake system as it trys to injest crankcase vapors. Again, just a guess but it might be a good idea to remove the valve cover and intake muffler cover to make sure it's not sloppy wet in there.

There is a drain system for the intake muffler and it should probably be cleaned out every once in a while anyway.
See items 18 and 19 in the link below.

Honda Outboard 90HP OEM Parts Diagram for Muffler Cover | Boats.net

Buy OEM Parts for Honda Outboard 90HP Muffler Cover Diagram
www.boats.net www.boats.net

Good luck.
 
160 psi should allow the engine to run fine. If it does not, it's not because of low compression. Why it's down on power will be something else.

Oil level is now where it's supposed to be?
I assume the green light is on indicating you have oil pressure?

Is this a fuel injected motor, or does it have carbs?
 
Alan Hicks said:
160 psi should allow the engine to run fine. If it does not, it's not because of low compression. Why it's down on power will be something else.

Oil level is now where it's supposed to be?
I assume the green light is on indicating you have oil pressure?

Is this a fuel injected motor, or does it have carbs?
Click to expand...
Thanks Alan!

The oil level is now a bit below "full" mark on the oil measuring stick. I drained about 1100 ml of oil to get there. There is no green light oil pressure indicator (at least I do not know about and do not see one). The motor is 2006 90 hp with carbs.
 
Carbs = good. MUCH simpler to work on!
The green light should be one of 2 lights located near the ignition switch. If that light doesn't come on when the motor starts, whatever is causing that issue COULD be forcing the motor into limp mode, which will cause it to be WAY down on power. That's where I would start. Figure out if the green light isn't on due to an electrical issue, or if there's a mechanical one.
 
Alan,
It sounds ridiculous, but there are no lights near the ignition switch. There are also no lights/gauges on the panel either. Any suggestions how I can check the oil pressure any other way?Switch.jpgPanel.jpg
 
Do you have a binnacle (top) mount control, or a side mount? If an OEM side mount, the lights will (could?) be located there.

To be honest, if somebody installed that motor without installing the lights somewhere, that was pretty reckless in my opinion.
 
It's a side mount and has no lights as well. The manual provides for the oil pressure and overheat lights next to the ignition switch (and there are none as we know). After I fix this issue, I will try to get the dealer to install the lights where they should be.
 
USUALLY, a side mount control will include the ignition switch and that manual choke button shown in the picture. It looks like somebody got "creative" here, removing them, extending the wire harness and installing per your pic. Both of those items, especially the choke button, look like they've been relocated from a side mount control. Optionally, usually used in combination with a binnacle type control, they use a small panel that includes the missing lights.

In any case, I would encourage you to have another look at your control. The lights on the black OEM side mount control are flush mounted right near the high idle/warm up lever handle. If they mounted the control with the throttle/shifter arm horizontal when in neutral, these lights may be facing down.....
 
Back
Top