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2004 Johnson BRP 175HP no spark on any cylinder

T

TheBrain

Regular Contributor
2004 Johnson BRP 175HP model J175PLSRB no spark on any cylinder

Spark testing: done w/ ignition safety clip attached to ignition key switch, done again

w/ the ignition safety switchs black w/ yellow tracer disconnected at engine.



What I have done is insert a bulb type spark detector inbetween the spark an spark plug wire, then using my mometary ignition connected to the starters group of red wires to side of starter an the ignition hot wire yellow w/ red tracer at bottom of starter to bump the starter this w/ the ignition key switch on,didn’t see the bulb lite-up on any of the 6 spark plugs.repeated test w/ key off.result no spark.



Coil testing:

Then tested the coils from where the spark plug wire attaches to an where the power pack connects (small terminal)result was 290OHMs -299OHMs on each coil.

Next coil test was from where coil mounts an grounds to block to spark plug terminal

Result 0 OHMs.



Additionally the coils appear clean no leaking of glue an no burn marks.



spark plug wire testing:

My multimeter has a continuity tester that beeps however it never beeped.



I tested all spark plug wires for resistance all where .6OHMs -.45OHMs

all wiring appears corrosion free. as doe's where the coils bolt to block no corrosion.



Comments on engine:

I’ve had this engine for 9 years baisely trouble free. Haven’t used it for the last 3 years. I winterized her (fogging cylinders an running the engine till all fuel was burned from carbs bowls). So this no spark is the first ignition related issue I’ve had.



Except for about 7 years ago the spark was very weak she still ran but weak.

I was down at the Gulf stopped by a dealership they knew me from previous engine purchase.

the mechanic knew right away what the problem was he used a small impact

IIRC the flywheel wasn’t removed but the I think it’s the timing cover.

I believe he swapped the optical sensor took him 15minutes, shes been fine until now.



Removing the flywheel mite be to much for me to handle then putting everything back w/out messing up timing carb idel wot setting ect.



I hate to throw parts at it but am leaning toward replacing the power pack this. New Johnson Evinrude OEM Outboard 150-175hp Power Pack 584985 BRP/OMC​

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2619576976...-926d-e234dac678ee|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage​

Please suggest next thing to test. Thanks for advice.
Is this the kill switch black w yellow.jpg
 
That connector should be for the shift switch. Check that you have 12v on the yell/red wire in grey connector when cranking
 
This is same wire that activates the starter solenoid, Need to check battery as voltage is to low to power pack and eye
 
I'm using a 700cca battery removed from my 6 litre engine tow vehicle. the battery is stronge enough to crank the chevy 6 litre LQ4 engine. I will have the battery load tested an report back.

this battery turns the 175 over very strong. if it's a bit weak wouldn't I get a little spark instead of none on all 6 cylinders? thanks fazbullet
 
you know the first battery I purchased for this engine, I unknowingly purchased a deep cycle marine not a spesific engine start battery. purchased at costco at the time I thought it was aceptable since it had marine printed on it.

since I found out about this deep cycle battery ppl say if it cranks the engine just keep using it. I have a almost new DC in the RV I'll use it tommorow an retest that yellow wire.

I'm now on my 2nd costco DC this it's only 600cca

thanks fazbullet
 
the first battery had 12.5VDC 2nd battery 12.6VDC both are full charged or are they low for a boat engine both turn over engine strongly.
2nd battery improved a tad the yellow w/ red trace now has just over 9VDC.
 
just tested the ignition kill switch for voltage result 0VDC w/ key on an key off no change in voltage stayed at 0VDC
multi meter red connected to the black w/yellow wire Black MM to coil ground turned key on/ off serval times stayed at 0VDC.so is the kill switch faulty seams like voltage would change if kill switch was functionioning.
testing kill switch voltage.jpg





also tested in VAC still 0 this w/ the ignition kill switchs clip inserted at the ignition key switch.

also test voltage drop of thick power cable from +battery to + at starter had .7VDC which I think is 1/10th to much, cleaned the + terminal at the battery an voltage went down to .3VDC which is acceptable I think anything below .6VDC is a good cable an connection



still no spark. anyone one w/ advise
 
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