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2002 BF50 4 stroke not pushing water

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DocDave

New member
I have 2002 BF50 Honda 4 stroke that I purchased recently
Not pushing water thru “pee tube” when running , seems to run well and overheating indicator doesnt come on(not running a lot since no water)
Jammed weedwhacker line up pee tube - no better
Replaced impeller and housing - no better
What is next step?
Per previous owner always pushes water they tube
I didn’t notice when they ran it for me 😳
Thanks in advance
 
Hi,
My guess is that there's a blockage in the tell tale bypass. Often, the weed eater line trick will work for a minor block but, even then, the "fix" can be short lived.

In a case like this, I always suggest removing the tell tale hose (item 29 in link below)and nipple fitting (item 8 in link below) from the engine block and shooting a quick blast of compressed air into the passage. If you don't have shop air you can try the weed whacker line but air is more effective and won't hurt anything.

You then need to lower the outboard in a test tank (trashcan of water) and start it for a brief moment.
The raw power of the pump will typically shoot out an incredible amount of water along with whatever was causing the blockage. So...
...STAND CLEAR!

Another thought is that the little hose should be limp and supple. If it gets hard (they all do with time) it will trap debris and cause backups. Replace it.
Pay particular attention to how that hose is routed as it can be pinched on some outboards when the side cover is replaced.

Honda Outboard 50HP OEM Parts Diagram for CYLINDER BLOCK | Boats.net

Buy OEM Parts for Honda Outboard 50HP CYLINDER BLOCK Diagram
www.boats.net www.boats.net

Good luck.
 
Will try your suggestions
Is there a thermostat on this engine that could be shot also, if so where is it located
Thanks
 
Well,
There's a thermostat for sure but it's not going to cause this problem.
Because, the tell tale is a bypass circuit that receives water from the pump before the cooling system does.

But it never hurts to know where the tstat is because it and the cavity it sits in should be at least inspected/tested every 3 or 4 seasons. More frequently if you boat in highly mineralized (salty) water.

Items 9, 10 and 11 in the link below.

2002 HONDA BF50A2 LRTA Parts | OEM OUTBOARD Parts | Boats.net

Buy OEM Parts for Honda, Outboard, 50HP, BF50A2 LRTA VIN# BAZS-3220001 to BAZS-3299999
www.boats.net www.boats.net

This engine also has the very handy water jacket cover that makes it easier to check and clean the block than on many other outboards. I see that as a kind of "bonus feature".

Item 12 but I recommend replacing the gasket too if you go in. Item 13.
Be careful if you start "digging" mineral deposits from inside either cavity because, if you get too aggressive, can remove metal that you don't want to. Salt and minerals have a nasty habit of embedding in and becoming one with the metal. People use Salt Away as well as vinegar to help loosen and clean out the stuff but it sort of comes down to a "get what you can safely get'" sort of thing.

Good luck
 
Sorry, problems loading the correct link above. But just open that one and then select "engine block" to see the diagram I referenced.
Apologies.
 
Jeeeeze! I meant CYLINDER BLOCK!

I hate the Stoopid 5 minute limit this site puts on edits!!!!
 
Hello, i have this old honda outboard BF15 280 cc. It belonged to my grandfather, he gave it to my father and afther he pas away afew years ago i got it. The engine is running and fine, but now i want to make it remote controled for my sons boat. The thing is that i don't know the model and the year when it was build, so ordering parts is a no go because there are many different types of BF15's. The small plate on the long tail is long gone aswell as the label on the bracket. The only thing that i have to look upon is the Vin-number on the engine. That's BABE-1212074
I have been searching the internet for sometime now, but the vin number from the engine is nowhere to be found on any site.
Does anybody have an idea how to get this information?

Adrian
 
The only reference I can find to a serial starting with BABE make that engine as a 9.9 hp. The 1212074 makes build date somewhere in the '91 to '95 range.
 
Thanks alan for answering. Its strange,maby my grandfather or dad change the cap on the engine or upgraded the engine to a 15HP. Because by looking at the specs of both engines the CC are the same....
Thanks any way, I have got something to work with.
 
Hi, I have basically the same engine as DocDave (2002 BF50A) and I too have a telltale that frequently plugs. I know the t-stat, impeller, and overheat switch are good. The engine does not overheat when running. But there must be a stash of sand in the cooling loop somewhere, because little bits of sand keep plugging the telltale. I've removed the water jacket cover and it all looks clean in there. So here is my question: Is there any value in removing the carburetor assembly to look into the cylinder block from that side? I think there is some access to the cooling passages once the carb assembly is removed. And, much more important, will I have to mess with the carbs after reinstalling them, or does the assembly just pop off and pop back on (with a fresh gasket, of course)?
 
I've run into this a couple of times, using compressed air to back flush with the motor running and pumping water. Generally several cycles of that will clear about anything out of there. If compressed air were not available, I would remove the nipple/hose adapter on the engine block. That opens up a pretty good size hole that's going to allow any built up loose "chunks" in that passage to be rinsed out. Normally that nipple is pretty restrictive when it comes to anything but water. For good reason too. They would prefer any excess water to be cooling the motor down, with that nipple allowing just enough water to act as a tell tale.

The carbs would most likely not need to be reset when removed as an assembly with the manifold, but I'm not sure removing that for this purpose would be a worthwhile move. If the area under the exh. cover area was in good shape, there's not much reason to suspect the area you're thinking of.
 
Thank you, Alan. This makes sense. My dock site is primitive, but I have an air tank that I could charge and bring out there. Where would I be injecting the compressed air while the engine is running + pumping water? Into the telltale nipple?
 
Yup! Just don't get too carried away with how much pressure you're using. We don't want to be blowing gaskets out! I'm using about 100psi, and applying in short bursts.
 
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