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2000 BF40A lower removal?

O

OregonApe

Member
Trying to remove the lower unit so I can rebuild the water pump as I suspect it has never been serviced.

Removed 4 side screws and one center from under the trim tab. Pulled apart but it seems like the shift shaft is being held in place by something. Diagrams make it look like I either need to disconnect the shifter cable at the top or unscrew a nut.

Tell me what I'm doing before I break something please.
 
At the front of the leg you loosen the shift shaft lock nut, then back off the long nut to disconnect the 2 shafts. Before reconnecting, select reverse on the lower unit & at the remote.

happy new year
Bob
 
Hi,
Locate the shift shaft connecter nuts at the front exterior of the gearcase.

You need to disconnect the UPPER shift shaft from the LOWER shift shaft by loosening the jam nut (item 39 in link below) and then screwing the "link" adjusting nut (item 11) UPWARDS onto the upper shift shaft until it releases from the lower shaft.


NOTE: shifting the transmission into reverse makes accessing and rotating those nuts easier.
CAUTION; When shifting an outboard that is not running, you should slowly rotate the propeller while doing so to prevent the clutch from jamming. It doesn't matter which direction you turn it....it just needs to be slowly rotating.

When you reconnect the two shift shaft rods, screw the long barrel nut (item 11) on to the lower shaft 3/16 of an inch as an initial adjustment and then shift the transmission from reverse to neutral to forward and then back to reverse to verify operation. Remember to slowly move the prop. When you're satisfied with the shift shaft adjustment, don't forget to securely tighten the jam nut (item 39).

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Hi,
Locate the shift shaft connecter nuts at the front exterior of the gearcase.

You need to disconnect the UPPER shift shaft from the LOWER shift shaft by loosening the jam nut (item 39 in link below) and then screwing the "link" adjusting nut (item 11) UPWARDS onto the upper shift shaft until it releases from the lower shaft.


NOTE: shifting the transmission into reverse makes accessing and rotating those nuts easier.
CAUTION; When shifting an outboard that is not running, you should slowly rotate the propeller while doing so to prevent the clutch from jamming. It doesn't matter which direction you turn it....it just needs to be slowly rotating.

When you reconnect the two shift shaft rods, screw the long barrel nut (item 11) on to the lower shaft 3/16 of an inch as an initial adjustment and then shift the transmission from reverse to neutral to forward and then back to reverse to verify operation. Remember to slowly move the prop. When you're satisfied with the shift shaft adjustment, don't forget to securely tighten the jam nut (item 39).

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thank you! The part numbers really help.

I'm pretty new to all of this. I thought I knew what I was doing from having worked on my Merc XR6 which doesn't require anything to be disconnected.
 
You're welcome.

I've never done a pump on a 40A but many Hondas are very similar to one another in that area.

If you're interested in getting a service manual, they're available at the link below.

Honda Marine | Shop Manuals Publications | Honda Power Products Support Publications

publications.powerequipment.honda.com publications.powerequipment.honda.com

While there are less expensive versions that are pdf based, the real deal paper manual available at the Honda Publications site sold at the link above are accurate and much easier to use.

I would not recommend buying a "knock-off" like Seloc, Haynes or Clymer due to the many errors those sometimes contain.

You could destroy your outboard by using inaccurate specifications or procedures.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
You're welcome.

I've never done a pump on a 40A but many Hondas are very similar to one another in that area.

If you're interested in getting a service manual, they're available at the link below.

Honda Marine | Shop Manuals Publications | Honda Power Products Support Publications

publications.powerequipment.honda.com publications.powerequipment.honda.com

While there are less expensive versions that are pdf based, the real deal paper manual available at the Honda Publications site sold at the link above are accurate and much easier to use.

I would not recommend buying a "knock-off" like Seloc, Haynes or Clymer due to the many errors those sometimes contain.

You could destroy your outboard by using inaccurate specifications or procedures.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Yeah, I have a haynes manual for my dodge van and it is terrible. It doesn't help that they advertised it for my generation but tried to reuse their old manual with little footnotes for my generation and no updated photos or diagrams. Terrible, just terrible.

I have a dealer service manual for my Merc XR6 and it has been invaluable.

The bf40 came on a boat I bought last year but the boat ended up being totaled by crevice corrosion when I went to replace the plywood deck last spring. So I'm just trying to get it running well enough to sell it. I already rebuilt the carb stack and it runs fine and pumps water just fine but I already bought the pump rebuild kit so I figured I might as well install it.
 
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