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1999 Johnson 225 issues!!!

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Curtisimo81

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Ok so I thought I had the kinks worked out in my motor (99 225 Johnson). Have taken the boat out quite a bit lately and it ran great. Yesterday I was out putting around and it ran good. Got to a spot fished for a bit and then started the motor. Started right up but when I when to take off it died. Started right back up and couldn’t get on plane it kept dying as soon as I gave it throttle. I figured well I better start heading towards the ramp (idling..). After about 5-8 mins of idling I figured lets try it again, it would let me go higher on the rpms but felt like it was missing. Then all of the sudden took off like a bad out of h*ll and ran great. Went to another spot fished some more and then the same thing happened. I got home checked compression, I’m good. Spark on all cylinders but the plugs look odd to me. I never seen them look like they do. Can anyone tell me your thoughts on it? Also all 6 carbs have been rebuilt. But I know they may not be adjusted properly. Also on the ears its coughing like crazy. I thought i blew it up, but compression is all within 10% of each other. Thanks for any help. 4E7DE0F2-B814-4365-95DA-7377EB4AA1B0.jpg
 
timguy said:
Water in the gas? You use ethanol?
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No i have been using ethanol fuel due to only have a 20 gallon tank right now and using just about all of it when i go out. I have a fuel water separator ill have to check it. Is that what a plug would look like with water in fuel?
 
The problems are spelled out here, my friend.
https://www.bellperformance.com/blog/the-damaging-effects-of-ethanol-in-your-boats-fuel
You can forget the additives, they are marginally effective to help with some of the shortcomings. Just stay away from the ethanol, if possible. You will see 3 to 4 percent performance improvements besides. Water separators don't help.....why? The water is combined with the ethanol which provides much of your octane. The result is a drop in octane and even further reduction in performance and economy. Once seperated, the ethanol water mixture cannot be remixed with the 90 percent petrol which is now lacking in octane.
 
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If your engine is designed to run on 87 octane there is absolutely no benefit to running a higher octane. That sparkplug does not look like it has had water on it. Water will usually make them nice and shiny. I would look at the primer or vro pump. You may also have a worn linkage or a bad OIS sensor. You need to do some trouble shooting. Does spark jump a 7/16" gap ? What is good compression?
 
flyingscott said:
If your engine is designed to run on 87 octane there is absolutely no benefit to running a higher octane. That sparkplug does not look like it has had water on it. Water will usually make them nice and shiny. I would look at the primer or vro pump. You may also have a worn linkage or a bad OIS sensor. You need to do some trouble shooting. Does spark jump a 7/16" gap ? What is good compression?
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I have spark and I am going to get a gap tester this morning and test. I am also going to test the VRO. BTW way compression is all within 10% of 110
 
So a quick update. Got a spark tester where it can jump the gap. Number 2 had no spark. Which had me stumped because that’s a new coil. So for sh*ts and giggles, I hooked the spark tester to the block instead of the plug. Got a nice blue spark. Changed plug now I get a nice blue spark. Makes me wonder how the plug broke..... So now the motor idles great no coughing (on the hose). Still have to figure out why my plugs look the way they are. Now on to test fuel system to see if I find anything. Can’t run the boat in the water today due to nasty weather.
 
Please provide an update once you get it in the water. I have a 95 225 that is doing the exact same thing. Mine appears to be an issue with the primer bulb. I have a new one just no time to install yet.
 
Resistor plugs are not flawless. Just something else to break......but a necessary evil in most cases.
 
Curtisimo81 said:
So a quick update. Got a spark tester where it can jump the gap. Number 2 had no spark. ....hooked the spark tester to the block instead of the plug. Got a nice blue spark. Changed plug now I get a nice blue spark.....
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I'm glad it seems to be running right now. When you do a spark test you should have all plugs removed then ground the tester to the block like you did. With the plugs removed the starter can spin the engine at max speed to give a better indication of ignition health.

Just to reiterate what Faztbullet said, the plugs MUST be Champion QL78YC. Yes, NGK does make a plug they say cross references but it is not exact. The OIS2000 ignition must have the champion plug. This is not champion fan boy, mystery snake oil stuff. Many other Johnson/Evinrude engines with standard CDI ignition can cross with other brands of plugs but not your engine.

Heres more info:
MaxRules said:
There are a couple of critical items you need to be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires need to be the gray inductive resistor wires - these are not automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs should be the factory recommended QL78YC. Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise.
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Here is the information you want to read the entire page on OIS2000 equipped engines: https://www.maxrules.com/fixomcoisignition.html
 
Well just an update, I definitely have a fuel issue going on. I think its in one of the carbs/fuel pump. Boat runs good but after running and sitting for awhile while fishing, it doesn't want to get on plane. If I hit the primer on the key the boat takes off and planes out. This happens even if I prime the bulb prior to starting. Maybe I will get this thing figured out before snapper season!
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Finally someone with the exact problem I'm having. Runs great when first start and take off, get to fishing spot. Go to leave and it performs just like yours. Have to hold the primer key in to get it going , then it runs great.
Installed new primer bulb last nite. the old definitely did not have the suction the new one did. Hopefully thats it, if not I'm thinking carb bowls are warped.
I'll keep the obard up to date if I find the fix.
 
If you have to hold the primer in to make it run right you have a carb issue. The primer effectively bypasses the carbs. The primer bulb will not have an effect on how a motor runs unless it breaks inside.
 
Willetts said:
Finally someone with the exact problem I'm having. Runs great when first start and take off, get to fishing spot. Go to leave and it performs just like yours. Have to hold the primer key in to get it going , then it runs great.
Installed new primer bulb last nite. the old definitely did not have the suction the new one did. Hopefully thats it, if not I'm thinking carb bowls are warped.
I'll keep the obard up to date if I find the fix.
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That’s my next thing to do after I check. I’ve heard horror stories about these carb bowls. Deff let me know when you figure it out! If i figure it out first I will deff keep it updated on this site. I hate it when you red 3 pages of a problem only for the person to never post back with what fixed it!
 
flyingscott said:
If you have to hold the primer in to make it run right you have a carb issue. The primer effectively bypasses the carbs. The primer bulb will not have an effect on how a motor runs unless it breaks inside.
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That’s my thoughts.. But had a boat mechanic tell me it could be that I’m sucking air somewhere before the carbs causing this. It doesn’t make much sense to me b/c once it goes it goes. So I’m leaning towards carbs...
 
Inspect and clean calibration pockets on throttle bodies, use only new gaskets. You should have adjustable low speed needles and these may need to be set if someone has been monking with them.
 
faztbullet said:
Inspect and clean calibration pockets on throttle bodies, use only new gaskets. You should have adjustable low speed needles and these may need to be set if someone has been monking with them.
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I do know the previous owner had problems with fuel leaking out of the carbs.. It was the float needle and seats. So there’s a good chance he messed with the low speed needles. Does anyone know what the standard turns are to get it close?
 
Over the weekend installed new plugs and new primer bulb. NO help still stalling. I guess next is carbs. Just weird how when first start from sitting overnight it is fine,its when you run it and then stop for a while and by while it could be 3-4 hours. When I go to take off if I dont push the key to prime she wants to stall.
fyi I have performed lnk and sync twice.
 
Its your carbs, 100%. Unless you have a fuel restriction at the tank (anti-syphon). Sadly, best thing to do at this point will be go through the carbs with a fine-tooth comb.
 
Update: This was happening on a new powerhead I had replaced over the winter. While scratching my head staring at the intake wondering what it could be I noticed I didn't have any clamps/ty-wraps on the fuel rail where the 6 carb feed lines connect or where the main line feeds the fuel rail.
Added clamps/ty-wraps and knock on wood the last couple of times out no stalling issues.
 
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