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1998 Johnson 175 Ficht

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xyourobob12

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On my last outing on the boat cruising along at 25 knots, the engine just shut off. She started a couple of times, but died when I pushed the throttle, and then not to start again. Compression readings showed low compression on the starboard side of the engine 62, 58 & 58, port side were all in the 90s. I pulled the head and it was clear the rubber seal around the pistons were all breached, I cleaned everything up, new seals, sealant around the water jackets and torqued it back on. New readings are 90, 78 & 92 (the 78 indicates a worn ring, but I'm thinking it should still start), but the engine would not start. I get spark at all cylinders, the engine actually sputtered during one of these spark tests, strange? I can smell fuel on the plugs when I pull them out. I went through a bulk of the electrical system tests, I tried to run through the fuel system tests, but some of the tests suggest the engine be running, which mine doesn't. I rebuilt the lift pump, the electric fuel pump is pumping fuel just fine.
I'm hoping someone here would have some suggestions for me...
 
Check all the solder connections. Now for the best advice I can give you. Find a different motor, not to be mean but that is more obsolete than my 75 McCulloch. Your motor went obsolete within 5 yrs of being built any money you put into it will probably exceed the value of the motor. !998 was the first and absolute worst year of the Ficht motors. That Motor Bankrupted OMC and Bombardier wont even acknowledge its existence.
 
I put a new wiring harness on it about 8 years ago, it came from a boat in the great lakes, freshwater, connections are all good. I've owned the motor for 18 years, I'm familiar with the history, and I have been the only person to work on it in the last 18 years, primarily because mechanics didn't want to or were instructed not to work on them. The Ficht snafu was corrected on many of these motors with a powerhead replacement, which the original owner did on this motor, and then immediately sold it to me. It's been a great 18 years and I'm anticipating a few more :cool:
 
I'd be concerned with that much difference in compression. When you had the head removed, did you inspect the cylinder walls for scratches and scoring? If so, how did those appear?

I'm curious if maybe your 26 year old DI injectors are worn and in need of cleaning and/or rebuild. I have no experience in this area, but I've seen references to Injector Masters and DFI Technologies that will service and support FICHT and ETEC injectors. I can't say this for certain, but if you have excess fuel, and you've confirmed spark, fuel pressure, and air flow meet specs, then it might be a problem with the injectors.
 
The cylinder walls looked flawless, I have not successfully tested the fuel pressure yet. I'm assuming this can be done without the motor running, just turning on the key to allow the pump to run?, maybe several times? Also, can you help me understand air flow meet specs?
 
I misspoke on air flow specs. What I meant is make sure your TPS is reading properly.

If the cylinder is flawless it doesn't make sense for the compression to be that low unless you have a ring sticking. Or, that injector is flowing too much fuel and has washed the oil out of the crosshatch.

You should see fuel pressure with the key on, no start. Also, there should be a pressure buildup when cranking the engine. I believe the fuel rail should have a Schrader valve to connect a gauge and directly measure fuel pressure. To be honest, I don't know these engines well, but I have a Polaris jet ski that uses FICHT DI and the specs call for 45PSI fuel pressure when cranking. Also, I know for certain if the battery doesn't maintain over 10.5volt when cranking the EMM will not fire the engine.
 
I did the voltage supply test as per the attached instructions, check voltage to the J terminal in the power distribution panel while the engine is cranking. The good book says I should be getting 9.5 volts or higher, mine tops out at 9 volts. When it is not cranking I get 12.5 volts. I have a brand new battery, same model that was in there, the cables, battery switch and ignition switch are only 6-7 years old. I moved on to the starting system components, the Total Output test (spark noted at each plug but engine will not start) directed me to Power Coil output test, I make it to #7 in this test and I don't get any voltage and I should be getting 50 volts or better. I moved on to the Power Coil Resistance test and I'm not showing any resistance between orange and orange/black. It's suggesting I replace the stator assembly. My question on this resistance test is should the key be on? Cranking? Or in the off position? I'm assuming off the position.
https://i.postimg.cc/J0WY7gBq/20240727-123015.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/0Nz976X4/power-coil-output-and-resistance-tests.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/t4SX1dkP/total-output-test.jpg

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Throw that Selco book away as its wrong. Those tests are for a carb motor!!! Also your stator is a 3 phase stator and does not have a org/org-blk wire. So are you sure its a FICHT? The only org and blk wire coming from flywheel cover is the CPS

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Thank you for chiming in faztbullet, my book is a Clymer (not that its any better), and it has a supplemental section for the Ficht, and yes I went down the wrong path. Back in the Ficht supplemental section I started the process of elimination, it appears that my coil pack round straps were not grounding properly, I cleaned them up and and the engine started right up. I took her for a sea trial, she runs great at idle, but when I throttled her up she ran good for a while and then bogged down and died. After 2-3 minutes of sitting she will start up again, it did the same thing a few times then I idled back to dock.
 
This almost sounds like the water line that cools the EMM is clogged and causing it to overheat. A look at the EV DIAG application would tell you EMM temperature and confirm if this is happening. You could also just try to blow compressed air through the cooling lines and make sure there are no obstructions.
 
One of the coil packs has a crack in it, I ordered a new one, could the cracked coil cause the symptoms I am having?
I will also install a new vapor separating cover, which includes the float and needle, again I'm not sure if this part would cause these symptoms?
 
I finally got the boat out of the water, fortunately the day before the remnants of Hurricane Debbie made her way up the north and created a big tidal surge in the Chesapeake Bay, and our docks were under water.

I checked the fuel pressure first and I am getting 25 psi on the high pressure port, no problem with that reading. The low pressure port was also within the guidelines.

I conducted another spark test, in doing this the engine sputtered a few times and sounded like she might start, it didn't though, and that sputtering stopped. My spark tester is the kind that connects between the spark plug and the spark plug wire, it has a clear tube in the middle. I get spark, but it's not a bright white spark, more orange. I sprayed a little starter fluid in all the cylinders, I got nothing when I cranked the engine. I removed a spark plug but kept it in the boot and grounded the end of the plug on the block, we cranked the engine and we get nothing, I tried another plug and still no spark. So as it appears I have spark with the tester, but I don't believe I am getting enough spark.

I attempted to test the voltage coming to the coil packs, the instruction said leave the primary coil wire connected, insert a test connecter (sewing pin for me) into the boot of the primary coil wire at the coil, with the meter, red to the test connecter, and black to engine block ground. When I crank the engine, I should get a minimum of 180 volts, my meter reading says -8.5 volts. I tried it on several primary coil connecters and I get the same result. I am either conducting this test wrong, or it's pointing to the problem. I think it's also important to note that it is/was an intermittent problem. Any thoughts?
 
In conducting voltage supply tests, I placed the positive meter lead on the fuse for the "Ignition System", with the key on the voltage should be 1 volt less than the reading at the battery, and it is. While cranking, this voltage should be increase, but it doesn't, this directed me to test the charging system. I got to the "Suppressor Diode Test" I have attached the instructions for this test, it said disconnect the red & purple/yellow wire connecter. It talks about a 3rd wire "black" that connects to the mounting screw, mine doesn't have a black wire and appears to ground by the body of the suppressor. I'm assuming that the instructions are telling me to to touch the meter lead to one of the pins on the Suppressor itself, not the wire connector? I don't get any readings from the meter when doing this test? Am I doing this one right?
 
8 or 10 years ago, I bought a wiring harness for this motor off someone who had a boat on the great lakes, I remembered he had thrown in some extra parts, I went through the box and found a Suppressor Diode :)
It didn't show any different results than the one on the boat, but I swapped it out anyway. I also, tested the stator, and it checks out fine. I am now at a loss... I'm hoping it's not my ECU
 
I'm back with an update - over the last 2 months I searched high and low for an ignition module. The first one I found came out of California from someone that parts out motors, $450 with a 6 month guarantee - that one proved to be faulty and kept blowing the ignition circuit fuse, I got a full refund minus shipping. The second one came out of California from a private seller, the bracket was rusted and cracked in multiple places, it had a ford relay in and it appeared to be off a motor that was submerged, that one cost me only shipping. The third one came out of Florida from another salvage company for $400, it looks brand new, however I can tell it was installed on a motor by the markings on the bracket where the bolts go. One of the bracket arms was bent, but nothing that I couldn't work around. The engine started right up and I'm back in business. Thank you for everyone's comments and advice, these forums and it's members are the best.
 
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