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1998 225hp Ocean Pro

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Newlifer89

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Hey all. I have this 1997 (not 98 sorry) 225 evinrude ocean pro on a 22ft aquasport. The motor has 325 original hours. I am the 2nd owner of it. The original owner was in the military and didnt have much time for the boat. It sat and was used very little. Once purchased the motor ran great for a few weeks. I decided to get a full service just so i know all the plugs were new and the oil was new. This season the motor ran great until a few weeks ago. It started making this shuttering sound when going over 2500 RPMs. Under 2500 it would be fine. I brought it to a well known mechanic and he hasn't been able to fix it and Im tired of paying him for nothing. The last time I brought it there he said he did a link and sync and said he couldn't get the issue to duplicate. I showed him a video and he said the motor was going into a fail safe mode. I had an issue with the cap that screws into the motor for the water pump pisser. I took it off to clean it out because it had some growth in it, and long story short a friend that was on the boat tried to put it back on, and ended up dropping it overboard. So my mechanic said that since the cap was missing it caused the motor to not have enough back pressure to keep enough water in it keep it cool and it caused it to overheat. Even though I told him numerous times that the motor was making the shuttering sound long BEFORE we lost that cap.

Anyway, I ran it yesterday after he supposedly "fixed" it. I ran the boat for an hour and a half before it starting making the shuttering sound again. Also, I shut the motor down for 30ish seconds and cranked back up and it ran fine. We were only 1 mile from the boat ramp at this point, and it ran fine back to there. I didnt want to run it anymore to see if it was going to do it again. It was late and I was annoyed.

Anyway, based on the video, what do you think could be causing the motor to do this?

Thanks in advanced

John

https://youtu.be/Xt8ow1dkSUY
 
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Ive had the alarm go off before when it first started but then went off. The last time we used it, yesterday, it had no alarms at all. I'm pretty sure it works because it has gone off before. Also, when turning key to on position, all lights come on one at a time and work their way down and then go off and an alarm will beep. Like its doing a test. Also, when the oil injection tank gets low, the alarm works there.

Are you thinking the warning system has gone bad? Or is it just a sensor? Are the only two reasons its doing this is because of no oil, or over heating?

Thanks for your input!
 
You can check it for codes without the software but it's a little bit of a pain. You can find the software on eBay and you will need a PC laptop. There are a lot of things that turn the light on and a bunch the will put the engine in slow mode. An overheated EMM is one that can be caused by clogged water lines. The fact that you had junk in the pisser vent could easily mean there is junk elsewhere. Here's how to retrieve the codes manually:
4. For20012251250hpV6motors,disconnectthestarboardthrottlelink from the throttle cam, then manually move the throttle cam to its fullest limit of travel simulatingWide-Open-Throttle(WOT). Moving the throttle cam in this manner manually moves the TP sensor to the WOT position.DO NOT attempt to use the boat's remote control to activate the throttle cam or throttle position sensor, as damage could occur to the shift system if this is done without the motor running. InTHEORY, you could have an assistant spin the propeller shaft by hand while gently moving the remote handle into the WOT position. But, if binding seems to occur, don't force the remote and BE SURE to remove the propeller first (we just don't like the idea of an assistant anywhere near the propeller during this procedure).
5. For75-175hpV4andV6motors,unboltandremovetheThrottle Position (TP) sensor from the flywheel cover. Manually move the TP sensor to the fullest limit of high-end travel in order to simulate WOT operation.
6. On ALL motors, use a rubber band, clip or piece of wire to hold the throttle cam or the TP sensor in the WOT position.
7. Turn the ignition switch to on in order to power up the EMM (the switch must remain on throughout the test with the emergency stop clip (if used) in position. Wait at least 10 seconds and watch for the codes to display on the Check Engine light.
If theTP sensor or throttle cam is moved from the maximum limit before 10 seconds have passed, the EMM will NOT go into diagnostic mode and you'll have to start over from the beginning.
8. AnytroublecodespresentwillbeginflashingontheCheckEngine LED. Count the flashing to determine the code(s).If more than one is present, each code will flash until all stored codes have displayed, then there will be long pause (several seconds), during which the Check Engine light will remain lit, After the pause, the codes will loop and being displaying again.This will continue until you exit the diagnostic mode or erase the trouble codes.
Interpret codes by counting the flashes.There will be a short pause between digits of the 2-digit code. A longer pause indicates the start of a different number.




9. Oncethecodesarecountedlrecorded,youshouldmanuallyerase the codes and run the engine to see verifyif any were hard codes (meaning the faults are still present) or to see if they were all soft (meaning stored for faults that occurred but are no longer present).
10. Aftertheengineisruntonormaloperatingtemperature,shutthe engine off and repeat the diagnostic trouble code reading procedure to see if any codes are present. Codes found again at this time should be considered hard codes or codes that represent a problem whose symptoms are still present.



 
Keep in mind that if it took you an hour and a have for your motor to act up.your mechanic wil probably have to run it an hour and a half just to duplicate the issue.and it will not show up below 2800RPM.
And yes,motor will run hot with plug missing.
 
Rwbutler said:
Please post your model number so we all know what motor you have.
Click to expand...

I added a pic of the model number. As for alarms, no alarms when the motor starts acting like that. Today I had to fix a wire for a power pack, and once I did, I ran the motor. The motor did the shuttering immediately when pushing it up around 2500 or so.. So hopefully it will continue doing this so the mechanic can see it. But I’m trying to get your guys opinions on what it could be
 

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Baddogs post does not apply to your motor. What color was the wire you repaired? My guess is tan. Disconnect your temp switches (top of both heads) and see if it acts up.
 
The 4 alarms the boat has is No Oil, Water temp, Check Engine, and Low Oil. The only two that I've ever seen come on is Water temp, and low oil. The alarms have a light and a audible noise. The water temp alarm came on the other day (the first day the motor did this shuttering) about 10 seconds after the motor started. This was a cold start. I was thinking to my self, there is no way the motor is over heating 10 seconds after started it. Then the alarm went away, but the motor did the shuttering when we left the dock. Then we shut the motor off, and restarted it. it ran fine for about and hour and a half after that. We figured it was fine being it was the first time it has ever happened and it went away after we restarted it. We were 15 miles off shore when it came back, and had to idle back. This is when we lost the pisser cap for the water pump. We were checking it to see if it was clogged and if the motor was over heating. The motor wasn't steaming or running hot and still no alarm. Like I said, the only time there was an alarm was when I first started it, but then it went away. After that trip is when I brought it to the mechanic, and he said he couldnt find it but he thought it was the missing cap that might of been the problem. (even tho i told him the motor acted up before loosing the cap)

Then yesterday after the motor was "fixed", we ran it for an hour and a half again before the shuttering came back. No alarm at all yesterday. Today in the drive way, i cranked it up after fixing the ground wire for the power pack, and i revved it up and it did the shuttering. So hopefully when I bring it to the mechanic next week, it will do it right away.

The low oil alarm I've gotten was when I was running off shore all day and the oil tank reservoir got low. I stopped the boat, filled it up and alarm went away and continued the trip with no issues.. So it did its job. I now fill the oil tank every time I plan on doing a long run and havent had any alarm for that. So i dont think thats the issue.
 
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