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1997 Johnson 200hp Oceanrunner- no spark on one cylinder

F

FTCS_Shane

New member
I've combed through all the many power pack forum entries and can't really find anything that matches my problem. I have an ORIGINAL service manual on the way and may even receive it today.


I recently purchased this boat after it had reportedly been sitting in the previous owners yard for two years.
Using this forum, I've already fought through a failed emergency kill switch issue that caused no spark initially.

Here's my issue:
I have good spark on all cylinders except the middle cylinder on the starboard side.
Most of what I've read points to either power pack or stator. But, would a stator cause no spark in only one cylinder? or does it point to power pack? Same question though, does power pack fail at just one cylinder? I've ruled out the coil by moving the coil around to other cylinders and testing good. I've also ruled out "most" of the wire to the coil by doing a conductivity test from as high up on the wire as I can down to the connector.

Also, It appears to me I'll have to remove the flywheel for a powerpack replacement on this motor, is that indeed the case?

Thank guys.
 
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Is this cylinder not firing when running or cranking over and testing? And no you only pull flywheel if replacing timer or stator...
 
I've only tested it while cranking it over, I've never tested it while running. I assumed it would be the same result. Should I test it while running?

I have unbolted that power pack and tried to shimmy it out of there and it feels like I would break something in order to get it to slide out. I guess that is the way it is supposed to go though.
 
I tested it while running and it has spark. So I guess it's good? Why would it not have spark while just turning over and not running?
 
The ignition system (Magneto Capacitance Discharge) is self contained BUT for the spark to be tested properly, all ("ALL") spark plugs must be removed in order to obtain the highest cranking speed possible.

The engine must crank over at least 300 rpms in order for the stator to provide the proper AC voltage to energize the powerpack capacitor. A slow cranking engine ( s/plugs installed create resistance) results in weak, erratic, and if too slow... no ignition.

Normally, with the s/plugs installed and attempting to start the engine, not all of the cylinders are firing... BUT... as soon as one of them fires, the engine rpms instantly increase... and all of them kick in, hence your observation of no fire on that cylinder while cranking... but perfect fire (spark while running (increased rpm).

However.... those round rubber connecting plugs... sometimes the pins/sockets within them have a tendency to back out slightly, or a wire may break free from a pin/socket but be held onto the rubber plug simply by the gripping rubber action at the edge of the plug. It might be a good idea to check the rubber plug connector between the powerpack and that coil that bugged you.
 
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Thanks for the explanation Joe. You may be spot on with the assessment of the wire from the power pack to the coil. The rubber boot was falling off of it and it just generally looked questionable. I felt like I ruled that out when switching around coils but, maybe not.

Regardless, I got all spark now and I appreciate y'alls input. Have a great weekend!
 
I have the same issue. It only does it when the engine is warm now. I have fire to all 6 , after its warmed up i lose fire to middle cylinder. If i swap the plug wire then #2 will fire and the other one will not. tells me the ignition coil pack is good since it fires immediately if i swap wires.The issue appears to be following the wire off the power pack. I have put new plugs in, and replaced the power pack today with a replacement from CDI. Fired it up in drive way and she sounded great. Test drive fail missing / NO FIRE at all........on #2 port side and still have this same issue with a new power pack!! (I did not have to remove the fly wheel to change the power pack) I have 14 volts running, so the stator should be good? the magnets are not lose. I have no idea what to change next. Timer base? it runs great initially its only after warm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Twilly.... Go back one page, top left portion click on "Post New Thread".

Best to have your problem listed under your own screen name and topic for full coverage. As it stands, you're buried under some other boaters post.
 
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